Exploring the Cultural Richness of Fes with Friends

Finding Peace and History in Fes

Today was a day of contrasts, a blend of serene escapes and historical deep dives right here in Fes. After a couple of days navigating the intensity of the medina, I was ready for a change of pace, and Fes certainly delivered. Traveling with friends has made these discoveries even more special, as we share our perspectives and experiences along the way.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Le Tarbouche. It was a bustling spot, filled with both locals and tourists, and the perfect place to fuel up for the day ahead. I opted for a traditional Moroccan breakfast of msemen (pancakes) with honey and a strong, sweet mint tea. It reminded me of the breakfasts my abuela used to make back in Huancavelica, simple but satisfying. After breakfast, we set off to find some tranquility at Jnan Sbil.

A Breath of Fresh Air at Jnan Sbil

As we stepped through the gates of Jnan Sbil, the vibrant energy of the medina faded into a peaceful hush. The gardens are expansive, a sprawling green space that offers a respite from the city's hustle. The air was fragrant with the scent of roses and orange blossoms, a welcome change from the sometimes overwhelming aromas of the souks. I learned that these gardens, also known as Bou Jeloud Gardens, were created in the 18th century, offering a green getaway in the city.


Discover the tranquil beauty of Jnan Sbil, a serene garden oasis in Fes, Morocco, perfect for relaxation and exploration amidst lush greenery.

The gardens are meticulously maintained, a blend of Andalusian and French influences. Fountains gurgled, their gentle music accompanying our stroll along the shaded pathways. We wandered through different sections, each representing a different geographical region. I was particularly drawn to the Andalusian Garden, with its echoes of the Alcázar of Córdoba. It reminded me of the importance of preserving historical beauty, much like the buildings I work on back in Montreal. We found a quiet bench near a water wheel and simply sat, enjoying the peace and quiet. It was a perfect spot to recharge before our next adventure. As Mateo would say, it was like stepping into another world, far away from the noise and chaos. It's amazing to think that such a serene place exists right in the heart of the city.

Delving into History at the Dar Batha Museum

Leaving the tranquility of Jnan Sbil, we headed to the Dar Batha Museum, eager to immerse ourselves in the art and history of the region. Housed in a stunning 19th-century Hispano-Moorish palace, the museum itself is a work of art. As a restoration technician, I couldn't help but admire the intricate details of the building, the carved wood, the vibrant zellij tilework, and the delicate stucco designs. It was clear that the palace had been lovingly preserved, a testament to the rich cultural heritage of Fes. I could almost hear Sophie, my wife, describing the history and significance of each design element. She would have loved this place.


Immerse yourself in the vibrant culture of Morocco at Dar Batha Museum, Fes, where history and art converge.

Inside, the museum's collection is a treasure trove of traditional Moroccan arts and crafts. We wandered through the rooms, marveling at the displays of carved wood, Fassi embroidery, Berber carpets, and ancient musical instruments. I was particularly fascinated by the collection of ceramics and pottery, the most beautiful in the country, showcasing the famous Fez blue. I learned that this unique color is derived from cobalt, a technique that has been perfected in Fes for over 1000 years.

Art is not what you see, but what you make others see.

One of the highlights for me was the collection of astrolabes, intricate astronomical instruments used to calculate the position of the stars. It was incredible to think that these tools were used to determine the time and even to fix the hours of prayer based on sunrise and sunset. It was a reminder of the ingenuity and scientific advancements of the Arab world. The museum also had a peaceful Andalusian-style garden, offering a serene escape. Though I'm more familiar with the tools to preserve buildings, I was impressed by the beauty and history of this museum.

Exploring the Mellah: A Journey Through Fes's Jewish Quarter

After our historical interlude, we ventured into the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter of Fes. This neighborhood, located in Fes el-Jdid, dates back to the mid-15th century. As we walked through the narrow streets, I noticed the distinct architecture, with its enclosed hanging balconies, a stark contrast to the traditional Moroccan houses with their interior courtyards.


Explore the historic Mellah of Fes, a vibrant Jewish quarter rich in culture, history, and unique shopping experiences, perfect for any traveler.

The Mellah has a unique history, serving as a refuge for Jewish people fleeing persecution in Spain and Portugal. While the Jewish population has dwindled over the years, the Mellah still retains its distinct character and historical landmarks. We walked along the Derb al-Souq, the main street of the Mellah, and observed the traces of Jewish architecture, the windows with decorated edges, and the symbols adorning many of the buildings. It was a somber reminder of the complex history of this city and the diverse communities that have called it home.

I couldn't help but think of my own background, my family's journey from the Andes to Montreal. Like the Jewish community of Fes, we sought a better life, a place where we could practice our traditions and build a future for our children. I felt a sense of connection to the people who had once lived in this quarter, their stories echoing through the ancient streets. While in the Mellah, we stopped by Coin Berbere Carpets & Antiques. Although I'm not usually one for shopping, the intricate designs and the stories behind each carpet were captivating. I could see the artistry and the dedication that went into creating these beautiful pieces. It reminded me of the craftsmanship and attention to detail that I strive for in my own work.


Explore the exquisite carpets and unique antiques at Coin Berbere, a family-owned gem in the heart of Fes, Morocco.

A Culinary Conclusion and Evening Reflections

For lunch, we stopped at Fez & Friends, a restaurant recommended by several locals. The atmosphere was warm and inviting. I opted for a traditional tagine, a slow-cooked stew with tender meat and flavorful vegetables. It was a delicious and satisfying meal, the perfect way to refuel after a day of exploring. Later, as the sun began to set, we made our way to Dar Roumana for dinner. The riad was stunning, decorated with colorful zellij tiling and carved cedar wood. We started with drinks on the roof terrace, enjoying the spectacular views of the ancient medina. The setting was romantic, and the service was attentive.


Discover authentic Moroccan flavors at Fez & Friends - a culinary oasis in Fes where tradition meets hospitality.


Discover authentic Moroccan hospitality at Dar Roumana—your serene oasis nestled within Fez's vibrant Medina.

The menu at Dar Roumana was a fusion of French and Moroccan cuisine, a reflection of the city's diverse influences. I chose a lamb dish with apricots and almonds, a delightful combination of sweet and savory flavors. As I savored each bite, I reflected on the day's experiences. From the tranquility of Jnan Sbil to the historical depths of the Dar Batha Museum and the cultural richness of the Mellah, Fes had offered a glimpse into its soul.

After dinner, we decided to unwind at Zen Garden. The bar had a relaxed atmosphere, the perfect place to reflect on the day's adventures. As I sipped my drink, I couldn't help but feel grateful for the opportunity to experience this incredible city with my friends. Tomorrow, we plan to visit the Aben Danan Synagogue, Borj Nord Museum, and Marinid Tombs. I'm particularly interested in seeing the synagogue, as it will provide further insight into the history of the Jewish community in Fes. The Borj Nord Museum, with its collection of weapons, should offer a different perspective on the city's past. As I prepare for another day of discovery, I'm filled with anticipation and excitement. Fes continues to surprise and captivate me at every turn.


Discover tranquility and natural beauty at the Zen Garden in Fès, a serene escape amidst the vibrant culture of Morocco.

For now, I'll rest up and dream of the intricate designs of the zellij tiles and the fragrant scents of the gardens. Fes, you have truly captured my heart.