Exploring the Rich Heritage of Fes with Friends

A Day of Discovery in Fes

Today was a day of contrasts and hidden treasures, a deep dive into the layers of Fes that often remain unseen by the casual tourist. From the solemn history of the Mellah to the rejuvenating tranquility of a traditional hammam and the forgotten opulence of a palace, Fes revealed more of its soul to me today. It’s these kinds of days that remind me why I love to travel, why I left my quiet life in Berlin to seek out the stories that lie waiting in every corner of the world.


Explore the historic Mellah of Fes, a vibrant Jewish quarter rich in culture, history, and unique shopping experiences, perfect for any traveler.

Our day began with breakfast at Fez & Friends. It's a charming little spot just outside the medina, and the reviews online were promising. I opted for a vegetable sandwich and a steaming bowl of pumpkin soup. It was fresh and delicious, a perfect way to fuel up for a day of exploring. Hans, as always, went for something heartier – a traditional Moroccan dish that I couldn't even pronounce, but he assured me was excellent. It's one of the things I love about him; he's always willing to dive headfirst into the local culture, especially when it comes to food.

With our stomachs full, we set off to explore the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter of Fes. As an archivist, I am naturally drawn to places with a rich history, and the Mellah certainly didn't disappoint. The name 'mellah' comes from a local toponym in Fes, which became the name of the first separate Jewish district in Morocco. Established in 1438, it was the first of its kind in Morocco, built to safeguard the city's growing Jewish population by separating the community from the rest of the city's residents in return for loyalty to the sultan.

Walking through the narrow streets, I could almost feel the weight of history pressing in on me. The architecture was distinct, with enclosed hanging balconies that spoke of a community that once thrived within these walls. I learned that before the Mellah was established, Jews and Muslims lived together in the medina. The Jews had properties, synagogues, and a cemetery there. The sultan at the time ordered their transfer to a new district close to the palace to provide them with better protection.

The past is never dead. It's not even past.

It was a sobering experience to learn about the Mellah's history, including the attack in 1465 when rebels killed most of the Jews residing there. Today, the Mellah is supported by UNESCO, but only a small Jewish population remains. I found myself reflecting on the complexities of history, the rise and fall of communities, and the enduring power of the human spirit. Despite the tragedies of the past, there was also a sense of resilience and hope in the air, a reminder that even in the face of adversity, life goes on.

After the Mellah, we decided to indulge in a traditional Moroccan experience: a hammam. I had heard wonderful things about Hammam Mernissi & Spa, so we booked an afternoon session. The hammam is a traditional bathhouse where Moroccans go to cleanse and purify their bodies. It's more than just a bath; it's a social ritual, a place to relax and connect with friends and family.


Discover the traditional Moroccan wellness experience at Hammam Mernissi & Spa in Fes, where relaxation and rejuvenation await.

Stepping inside Hammam Mernissi was like entering another world. The air was thick with steam, and the scent of eucalyptus hung heavy in the air. We were led to a private room, beautifully decorated with patterned tiles and lit by the soft glow of candlelight. Loubna, who was lovely, greeted me with mint tea before the hammam session. I chose a private Hammam with a black soap massage, scrubbing, shampoo and head massage, sea salt & Ghassoul, clay mask and gel shower with natural roses. It was an excellent experience.

The treatment began with a black soap massage, followed by a vigorous scrubbing that left my skin feeling incredibly smooth. Then came the clay mask, which was applied to my entire body. I lay there for what felt like an eternity, letting the clay work its magic, drawing out impurities and leaving my skin feeling refreshed and rejuvenated. The facilities are clean, and they give you a small locker to keep your things. Loubma was attentive and checked in with me frequently to see if everything was fine.

As I lay there, enveloped in the warmth and the fragrant steam, I couldn't help but think about the women who had come before me, who had shared this same experience for centuries. It was a powerful connection to the past, a reminder of the traditions that bind us together.

Feeling relaxed and rejuvenated, we decided to visit El Glaoui Palace. Discovering Palais El Glaoui was a delightful surprise. This palace, hidden away from the UNESCO-protected Fez medina, is a treasure most Morocco travelers miss.


Experience the splendor of El Glaoui Palace in Fes, a stunning historical site showcasing exquisite Moroccan architecture and rich cultural heritage.

The palace tells the tale of the Glaoui family, key figures in Moroccan history. This was the home of Madani and Thami El Glaoui, showing their rise to power with Sultan Muhammad IV and those who followed. The Glaoui family's story with the palace began after Madani Glaoui, the clan leader, supported the winning side in the Hafidiya civil war. For their loyalty, Madani and Thami received high-ranking positions, like Vizier and Pasha of Marrakech, which they held until Morocco gained independence in 1956.

Exploring the palace was like stepping back in time. The architecture was stunning, with intricate mosaics, carved stucco, and painted wood. It was easy to imagine the Glaoui family living here in luxury, entertaining guests and conducting affairs of state. The Dar Glaoui was also the first building in the country to have electricity and heating.

Unfortunately, when Morocco regained its independence in 1956, the family was stripped of its property, and the palace fell into disrepair. Today, it is still privately owned but partly dilapidated. Despite its current state, the palace is still worth visiting. It offers a glimpse into the lives of one of Morocco's most powerful families and showcases the beauty of Moroccan architecture.

Before dinner, I did a little shopping at Cooperative Artisanal de Fes. I wanted to find a special souvenir to remind me of my time in Fes. The cooperative specializes in the artisanal sector of art and decoration, with a branch of activity focused on brassware. I was able to find a beautiful, hand-crafted bowl that I know will look perfect on my dining room table back in Berlin.


Discover the vibrant craftsmanship of Morocco at Cooperative Artisanal de Fes, where tradition and artistry thrive in every handmade piece.

For dinner, we went to Restaurant Ouliya, drawn in by the promise of authentic Moroccan cuisine and warm hospitality. We were not disappointed! The restaurant is located in a building full of beautiful mosaic in the heart of the old town of Fés. On top, there is a beautiful terrace with a great view over the city center.


Savor the authentic tastes of Morocco at Restaurant Ouliya, where traditional dishes meet warm hospitality in the heart of Fes.

I ordered a tagine, and Hans opted for a couscous dish. Both were delicious, bursting with flavor and cooked to perfection. The staff was friendly and attentive, making us feel right at home. It was the perfect end to a perfect day.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit the Mosque and University Kairaouine, Cherratine Medersa, and Henna Souk and pottery. I look forward to exploring more of Fes's rich history and culture.

As I sit here now, writing in my journal, I am filled with a sense of gratitude for the experiences I had today. Fes is a city that gets under your skin, that challenges you to see the world in a new way. It's a city of contrasts, of beauty and decay, of tradition and modernity. And it's a city that I will never forget.