Exploring the Timeless Charm of Matera, Italy

A Day of Discovery Beneath and Beyond

Today was all about uncovering the hidden layers of Matera, both literally and figuratively. Jürgen and I set out with a plan to explore the depths of the city's ancient water systems and the heights of its artistic expression. It's amazing how much history and culture can be packed into one single day!

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at La Grotta Del Gusto. It was a delightful start, with the aroma of fresh pastries and strong Italian coffee filling the air. I opted for a simple cornetto and cappuccino, while Jürgen, ever the adventurous one, tried a local pastry filled with ricotta and candied fruit.

Fueled up, our first stop was the Palombaro Lungo. Walking through Piazza Vittorio Veneto, it’s hard to imagine that beneath your feet lies one of the largest underground water cisterns in the world. The entrance is unassuming, but as we descended into the cool darkness, I felt like we were stepping back in time.

The Palombaro Lungo, meaning long reservoir, is an incredible feat of engineering, built in the 19th century to collect rainwater for the city. Before the Apulian Aqueduct provided a more reliable water source, this cistern was essential for Matera's survival. Our guide explained that it could hold up to five million liters of water! Walking along the narrow pathways, with the sound of dripping water echoing around us, was a truly surreal experience. The sheer scale of the place is awe-inspiring, and it's hard not to feel a sense of wonder at the ingenuity of the people who built it.

Exploring the Palombaro Lungo felt like stepping into the heart of Matera's resilience, a testament to human ingenuity in the face of adversity.

After emerging from the depths of the Palombaro Lungo, we surfaced, blinking, into the bright sunlight of Piazza Vittorio Veneto. The contrast between the cool, damp underground and the warm, bustling square was striking. It was time to switch gears and explore another facet of Matera's cultural heritage: olive oil.

We made our way to MOOM, the Matera Olive Oil Museum. This museum is housed in a former olive oil mill, dating back to the 16th century, and it offers a fascinating glimpse into the history of olive oil production in the region. The owner, Marco, greeted us with a warm smile and a wealth of knowledge. He explained the traditional methods of olive oil extraction, from the ancient stone presses to the more modern techniques.

I learned that the process was incredibly labor-intensive, requiring the entire community to come together during the harvest season. The museum also showcased the importance of olive oil in the local cuisine and culture. Of course, no visit to an olive oil museum would be complete without a tasting! We sampled several different varieties of locally produced olive oil, each with its own distinct flavor profile. Marco taught us how to properly taste the oil, swirling it in our mouths to release its aromas and identifying the subtle notes of fruit and spice. It was a truly sensory experience, and I left with a newfound appreciation for this liquid gold. Jürgen, with his architect's eye, was fascinated by the way the old mill had been preserved and adapted into a museum space. He spent a good amount of time discussing the building's structure with Marco, exchanging ideas about sustainable preservation and adaptive reuse.

After immersing ourselves in the world of olive oil, we decided to indulge in a leisurely lunch. Stano was our choice, and it proved to be an excellent one. The restaurant had a charming, rustic ambiance, and the menu featured traditional Materan dishes with a modern twist. I opted for the fave e cicoria, a classic dish of fava bean puree with chicory, while Jürgen chose the orecchiette with ragu. Both dishes were bursting with flavor, and we savored every bite.

As we ate, we discussed our plans for tomorrow. Our last day in Matera! We're planning to visit the Chiesa Rupestre della Madonna della Croce and the Complesso Rupestre Madonna delle Virtù e San Nicola dei Greci - Sassi, two more of Matera's incredible cave churches. I am also very much looking forward to a drink at Crialoss, Panoramic Cave, Café Bistrot.

With our bellies full and our spirits high, we set out to explore the artisan shops of Matera. I was on the hunt for a special souvenir, something that would capture the essence of this unique city. That's when we stumbled upon Sassi in Miniatura. This charming shop specializes in handcrafted miniature models of the Sassi cave dwellings. Each model is meticulously crafted from local tufa stone, capturing the intricate details of the buildings and the surrounding landscape. It was like looking at a tiny, perfect replica of Matera itself.

I was immediately captivated by the artistry and craftsmanship of these miniature Sassi. The owner, a friendly artisan named Eustachio, explained that he had been making these models for over 20 years, using traditional techniques passed down through generations. He showed us how he carefully carved each stone, shaping it to match the unique architecture of the Sassi. I ended up purchasing a small model of the Sasso Barisano, the district where our hotel is located. It's the perfect memento of our trip, a tangible reminder of the beauty and history of Matera. Jürgen, of course, was drawn to the technical aspects of the models, examining the way Eustachio had captured the proportions and details of the buildings. He even struck up a conversation with Eustachio about the challenges of working with tufa stone, comparing it to the materials he uses in his architectural models.

Before dinner, we took a leisurely stroll through the Sassi, soaking in the atmosphere of this ancient city. The sun was beginning to set, casting a warm golden glow over the stone buildings. The air was filled with the sounds of church bells and the chatter of locals and tourists alike. It was a truly magical moment, one that I will cherish forever.

For our final dinner of the day, we chose Ego, a restaurant that had been recommended to us by several locals. Ego offers a modern take on traditional Materan cuisine, and we were eager to experience it. The restaurant had a sleek, minimalist decor, a stark contrast to the rustic charm of the Sassi. The menu featured innovative dishes made with locally sourced ingredients. I started with the potato tornado, a whimsical creation of crispy potatoes and truffle cream, while Jürgen opted for the lamb carpaccio with mint and pecorino cheese. For our main courses, I chose the black cod with artichokes and saffron, and Jürgen had the beef cheek with red wine reduction. Each dish was a work of art, both visually stunning and incredibly delicious. The flavors were complex and nuanced, and the presentation was impeccable. It was a truly memorable dining experience, a fitting end to a day of discovery in Matera.

As we walked back to our hotel, Sextantio Le Grotte Della Civita, I reflected on the day's adventures. We had explored the depths of the Palombaro Lungo, learned about the history of olive oil production at MOOM, and admired the artistry of Sassi in Miniatura. We had tasted the flavors of Materan cuisine at Stano and Ego, and we had witnessed the beauty of the Sassi at sunset. It was a day filled with wonder, discovery, and unforgettable experiences. Tomorrow marks the end of our Matera adventure, but I know that the memories we've made here will stay with us forever. As I drifted off to sleep in our cozy cave room, I couldn't help but smile. Matera had truly captured my heart. It's a city that has taught me the importance of preserving the past, embracing the present, and looking forward to the future. And as a travel blogger, I can't wait to share my experiences with the world, inspiring others to discover the timeless charm of Matera, Italy.


Experience authentic Italian flavors at La Grotta Del Gusto in Matera - where every dish tells a story of tradition and taste.


Explore the underground marvel of Palombaro Lungo in Matera, a UNESCO World Heritage site that tells the story of ancient water storage and community resilience.


Experience the essence of Mediterranean culture at MOOM, the Matera Olive Oil Museum, where tradition meets taste in a captivating setting.


Experience authentic Italian cuisine at Stano in Matera - where tradition meets flavor in every dish.


Explore Sassi in Miniatura in Matera for unique souvenirs that capture the essence of this historic city's captivating cave dwellings.


Experience the essence of Southern Italian cuisine at Ego in Matera – where every meal tells a story.


Experience the unique charm of Matera at Sextantio Le Grotte Della Civita – a stunning hotel that blends history with modern comforts.