Solo Art and Culinary Exploration on Naoshima Island

Whispers of Concrete and Sea Breezes

Today was a day of quiet contemplation and artistic discovery, wandering through the serene corners of Naoshima. I set out to explore more of the island's art scene, and what I found was a blend of architectural brilliance and intimate community spaces. It's funny, isn't it? How a small island can hold so much creativity and history.

My morning began with a hearty breakfast at the Terrace Restaurant. The restaurant has large windows that look out onto the Inland Sea, and the high ceiling gives this restaurant an airy, open feel. Although they don't have a fixed menu, it is created daily depending on the fresh local foods available from Shikoku and the Seto Inland Sea. I savored the fresh flavors while enjoying the view of the Seto Inland Sea. It was a perfect way to prepare for a day immersed in art. The restaurant is located in the annex of Benesse House in Naoshima Island. As I sat there, enjoying my meal, I couldn't help but think of Anjali and how much she would have loved the view. Maybe next time, I'll convince her to join me on one of these adventures.

First on my itinerary was the Ando Museum. Tucked away in the Honmura district, the museum is dedicated to the work of Tadao Ando, the architect whose vision has shaped much of Naoshima. It's housed in a renovated traditional wooden house, a beautiful blend of old and new. From the outside, it maintains the appearance of a traditional Japanese home, blending seamlessly with the surrounding Honmura district. Inside, however, the museum is a minimalist space of concrete walls and light, showcasing Ando's architectural philosophy.


Discover the Ando Museum in Naoshima, a stunning fusion of contemporary art and architecture by Tadao Ando, set against a backdrop of natural beauty.

The contrast between the traditional exterior and the modern interior was striking. It felt like stepping into another world. The museum celebrated Ando's legacy and served as a reflection of his minimalist yet thought-provoking design principles. As I wandered through the exhibits, I was struck by Ando's ability to create spaces that are both serene and powerful, and how the design speaks to Ando's determination to always create something new even while respecting the existing context.

Architecture is not about concrete. It's about life, or nature, or humanity.

After the Ando Museum, I headed to the Seaside Gallery, another architectural gem designed by Tadao Ando. Located in a terraced plaza overlooking the ocean at Benesse House Museum, the gallery boasts a long and narrow layout that follows the natural topography, allowing an abundance of light to flood through its large east-facing opening. The museum not only exhibits visually striking pieces but also offers a thoughtfully curated experience that encourages reflection and appreciation of artistic expression. As I strolled from Benesse Museum to Seaside Gallery, the beautiful Seto Inland Sea and natural scenery came into view.


Experience the intersection of contemporary art and nature at the Seaside Gallery on Naoshima Island, a must-visit modern art museum.

The summer sun was warm, and the sea breeze was refreshing. The gallery itself is a minimalist space, with large windows framing the stunning coastal views. The art here seemed to interact with the environment, the lines between the indoors and outdoors blurring. I spent a good hour simply sitting there, watching the waves and contemplating the art. The integration with the earth also raises questions about sustainability and environmental consciousness, as its design reduces energy consumption while harmonizing with the island's delicate ecology.

Next, I visited the Honmura Lounge & Archive. More than just a place to purchase tickets for the Art House Project, it's a community hub where art and local culture meet. The lounge sells tickets for art events and doubles as a charming souvenir store where visitors can find unique handmade items that reflect the island's artistic spirit. The lounge operates daily, providing ample opportunity for tourists to stop by, whether for a quick coffee or to browse the selection of gifts and memorabilia that capture the essence of Naoshima.


Experience the fusion of art and culture at Honmura Lounge & Archive, your gateway to Naoshima's vibrant creative scene and unique local souvenirs.

The Honmura Lounge & Archive serves as an archive and information center for the Art House Project. Here you can find material on the artists and architects involved with the projects as well as information on the various art houses. I enjoyed browsing the collection of books and photographs, learning more about the artists and their connection to Naoshima. The staff were incredibly friendly, offering insights and recommendations. I picked up a small, hand-painted ceramic piece as a memento of my visit. The architecture of the Lounge harmoniously blends with the landscape, creating an inviting space that reflects the beauty of its surroundings.

For lunch, I decided to try Kinosaki Udon Naoshima. It's a popular spot known for its handmade udon and delicious tempura. The modern black building is located about a 3-minute walk from Miyanoura Port. The most popular menu item, ordered by nearly every guest, is the “Niku Udon” (meat udon). The udon was delicious, the noodles perfectly chewy and the broth rich and flavorful. It's a simple, unpretentious place, but the food speaks for itself. There is also a cafeteria-style setup where you can choose your favorite side dishes.


Experience authentic Japanese udon noodles at Kinosaki Udon Naoshima - where tradition meets flavor in a cozy setting.

As the day drew to a close, I found myself at Naoshima Yokocho. During the day, they serve Sanuki udon noodles made with dried sardine broth, as well as set meals and sashimi made with fresh seafood. In the evening, they serve casual Japanese dinners that go well with alcohol, and also have a bar that serves hard liquor such as whiskey. I ordered a few small dishes and a glass of local sake, enjoying the lively atmosphere. It was a great way to unwind and reflect on the day's experiences. The restaurant is spacious, so they can accommodate large groups.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Naoshima Yokocho, an izakaya that captures the essence of Naoshima's culinary culture amidst stunning art and nature.

For dinner, I went to Chikurin, a cozy izakaya that perfectly encapsulates the essence of Japanese dining culture. This cozy restaurant welcomes guests with its warm ambiance and friendly service, creating an inviting atmosphere ideal for both casual dinners and special gatherings. The menu features a delightful selection of traditional Japanese dishes, showcasing local ingredients and seasonal flavors that reflect the culinary artistry of the region. The charm of Chikurin extends beyond its delicious food; it is also a place where locals gather to unwind after a long day. The communal setting encourages conversation and connection among diners, making it easy to feel at home even if you are visiting from afar. The sashimi and grilled fish are top notch. I savored every bite, appreciating the simple yet exquisite flavors. I tried the seasonal specials for an authentic taste of local ingredients.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Chikurin in Naoshima, where tradition meets flavor in a cozy izakaya setting.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore Miyanoura Gallery 6, Shipyard Works by Shinro Otake, and the Cultural Melting Bath: Project for Naoshima. I'm also looking forward to doing some shopping at Shimacoya. I'm eager to see what other hidden gems this island has to offer. Until then, I'll cherish the memories of today's artistic journey.

Naoshima continues to surprise me with its unique blend of art, nature, and community. It's a place where you can lose yourself in the beauty of the surroundings and find inspiration in the most unexpected corners. As I head back to My Lodge Naoshima, I'm filled with a sense of gratitude for this enriching experience. Good night from Naoshima!


Discover affordable comfort at My Lodge Naoshima, an ideal base for exploring the art-laden island while enjoying local cuisine and free parking.

The Setouchi Triennale 2025 is also coming up, and I am excited to see the new artwork that will be on display. The event will focus on the theme of “social impact” and how much power art has in the face of social issues. I'm excited to see how the artists will interpret this theme and how it will impact the community.