Exploring the Timeless Beauty of Shirakawa-go

Art, Gates, and Gastronomic Delights in Shirakawa-go

Today was a day of diving deeper into the cultural heart of Shirakawa-go. Liam and I set out to explore beyond the iconic farmhouses, seeking out the artistic expressions and historical remnants that this village holds. It turned out to be a day filled with unexpected discoveries and delightful moments, perfectly blending art, history, and the simple pleasures of local cuisine.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Kita no Sho. The traditional Japanese breakfast set was exactly what we needed to fuel our morning adventures. There’s something so comforting about starting the day with miso soup, grilled fish, and perfectly steamed rice. It felt like a genuine taste of the region, setting the tone for a day of cultural immersion. After breakfast, we made our way to the Jin Homura Art Museum, eager to see what artistic treasures awaited us.

Jin Homura Art Museum: A Splash of Color in a Traditional Setting

The Jin Homura Art Museum is nestled right by the village parking lot, and its gassho-style building immediately caught my eye. It’s a small museum, but incredibly charming. As we stepped inside, we were greeted by the vibrant and dynamic works of Jin Homura. His art uses vivid colors to explore the intersection of societal matters and artistic themes. What struck me most was the contrast between the contemporary art and the traditional architecture of the gassho-zukuri house. It created a unique and thought-provoking atmosphere. Homura-san actually lived and worked in Shirakawa-go for about 20 years, and the museum was established when he donated his works and the building to the village. You could really feel the connection between the art and the place.


Explore the Jin Homura Art Museum in Shirakawa, where traditional and contemporary Japanese art come together in a stunning cultural experience.

Art is not what you see, but what you make others see.

After spending a couple of hours soaking in the art, we decided to stretch our legs and explore another historical site – the Nezumita-mon Gate. This involved a bit of a scenic walk, which was lovely in itself, taking in the sights and sounds of rural Japan.

Nezumita-mon Gate: A Step Back in Time

The Nezumita-mon Gate isn't actually *in* Shirakawa-go, but in Kanazawa. I was initially a little confused, but it turned out to be a fascinating piece of history. The gate, along with the Nezumitamon Bridge, connects Oyama Jinja Shrine and Kanazawa Castle. The original gate dated back to the early 17th century, but it was destroyed in a fire in 1884. It wasn't until 2020 that the gate and bridge were reconstructed, using historical records to recreate their original beauty. What’s really interesting is the black plaster used on the gate, which is quite different from other gates in the area. It gave it a distinctive and somewhat mysterious look. While it required a bit of travel outside Shirakawa-go, seeing this historical reconstruction was well worth the detour.


Explore the historical beauty of Nezumita-mon Gate, a remarkable castle landmark in Kanazawa, Japan, showcasing traditional architecture and serene gardens.

By now, all that exploring had worked up quite an appetite. We headed back to Shirakawa-go for lunch at Hakusuien. This restaurant is housed in a gassho-style building, adding to its charm. Hakusuien is known for its simple and warm regional cuisine, made with local ingredients. Liam, ever the adventurous one, decided to try the “oyaji wazen,” a Japanese hot pot with bear meat. I opted for the Hida beef hoba miso wazen, a local specialty with a traditional flavor. Both meals were delicious, and it was a wonderful way to experience the local culinary traditions.


Experience authentic Japanese dining at Hakusuien in Shirakawa – where tradition meets taste in every dish.

Evening Relaxation and Local Brews

With the afternoon sun casting long shadows across the village, we decided to take it easy for a bit. We strolled through the streets, taking in the peaceful atmosphere and popping into a few local shops. I picked up a couple of small souvenirs – a hand-painted fan and some locally made sweets – to remind us of our time here. As evening approached, we decided to check out Shiraogi, a local bar known for its cozy atmosphere. It was the perfect spot to unwind after a day of exploring. We sampled some local sake and chatted with some of the other patrons, who were incredibly friendly and welcoming. The bar had a real sense of community, and it was lovely to feel like we were experiencing a slice of local life.


Discover the authentic flavors of Japan at Shiraogi, a charming restaurant in Shirakawa offering traditional Syokudo and Teishoku meals.

As I sit here now, reflecting on the day, I feel a deep sense of satisfaction. Today wasn’t just about seeing the sights; it was about immersing ourselves in the art, history, and culture of Shirakawa-go. From the vibrant art at the Jin Homura Museum to the historical echoes at Nezumita-mon Gate, every experience felt authentic and enriching. And of course, the delicious food and the warm hospitality of the locals made it all the more special.

Tomorrow, we’re planning to explore the Hida Earth Wisdom Center and the Museum Hida. It sounds like another day of cultural discovery, and I can’t wait to see what hidden gems we’ll uncover. Before we leave Shirakawa-go on Wednesday, we also intend to visit Ichihi, a local shop, to pick up some last-minute souvenirs. I’m already feeling a little sad about leaving this enchanting village, but I know that the memories we’ve made here will stay with us forever.

Goodnight from Shirakawa-go!

Sophie