Exploring the Historical Charms of Nagasaki with Family

A Day of Reflection and Discovery

Today, Nagasaki offered a poignant blend of history and culture, a stark reminder of the past and a vibrant celebration of resilience. Erika, Lena and I set out to explore, each of us carrying our own expectations and hopes for the day. Little did we know, we were about to embark on a journey that would leave us profoundly moved.

Our day began with a quick and convenient breakfast at Mos Burger Nagasaki Hamanomachi in the Hamamachi Shopping Arcade. It's funny, isn't it? Here we are in Japan, surrounded by incredible culinary traditions, and we start our day with a burger. But Mos Burger is different, you know? It has this unique Japanese twist that makes it a comforting and familiar, yet still distinctly local, experience. Lena was particularly happy with her vegan 'Green Burger', while Erika and I enjoyed the classic Mos Burger, reminiscing about similar fast-food experiences back in Heidelberg. It was a casual start to what would become a deeply reflective day. I made a mental note to try one of their rice burgers next time. I've heard good things.

With our stomachs satisfied, we ventured towards the main event of the morning: Hashima Coal Mine Ruins, also known as Gunkanjima or Battleship Island.

Uncover the haunting beauty of Hashima Coal Mine Ruins, a UNESCO World Heritage Site revealing Japan's industrial history.
The ferry ride out to the island was smooth, the sea a calming presence under the warm July sun. As the island came into view, its silhouette against the horizon was striking. It truly does resemble a battleship, a concrete behemoth frozen in time. I couldn’t help but feel a sense of unease mixed with anticipation. This was a place laden with history, both triumphant and tragic.

Sometimes, the most profound lessons are learned not from textbooks, but from the silent echoes of the past.

Stepping onto Hashima was like stepping into another world. The crumbling concrete buildings, the skeletal remains of what were once homes, schools, and workplaces, told a powerful story of industrial ambition and human resilience. Our guide led us through the designated safe areas, sharing stories of the island’s inhabitants, the coal miners and their families who lived and worked in this isolated community. It was hard to imagine that this desolate place once housed over 5,000 people, making it one of the most densely populated places on earth. Erika was particularly moved by the stories of the families who lived here, trying to create a sense of normalcy amidst the harsh realities of coal mining. Lena, with her keen eye for photography, captured the stark beauty of the ruins, the contrast between the decaying structures and the vibrant blue of the sea creating a hauntingly beautiful tableau.

The experience was sobering. To think of the lives lived here, the sacrifices made, and the eventual abandonment of the island when the coal mines closed in 1974… it was a stark reminder of the impermanence of things. As we walked through the ruins, I couldn't help but reflect on my own life, my journey from Matsumoto to Heidelberg, and the twists and turns that had brought me to this remote island. It made me appreciate the simple things in life, the importance of family, and the enduring power of the human spirit.

After returning to Nagasaki, we needed a change of pace. So, after a brief stop at the hotel, we headed to the Hamamachi Shopping Arcade.

Discover the vibrant Hamamachi Shopping Arcade in Nagasaki, a perfect blend of local culture, diverse shopping, and delicious cuisine.
What a contrast! From the eerie silence of Hashima to the bustling energy of this covered shopping street. It was sensory overload in the best possible way. The arcade was teeming with shoppers, the sounds of vendors calling out their wares, and the enticing aromas of street food filling the air. Erika was in her element, browsing the various shops, while Lena was fascinated by the local crafts and souvenirs. We picked up a few small gifts for friends back home, Erika found a beautiful silk scarf, and Lena, a quirky, hand-painted fan. The Hamamachi Arcade is truly a shopper's paradise, a vibrant mix of traditional shops and modern boutiques. I even managed to find a small antique map shop tucked away in a corner, a little piece of home amidst the hustle and bustle.

For lunch, we decided to try Horaiken, a restaurant known for its Champon and Sara Udon.

Experience authentic Chinese cuisine at Horaiken in Nagasaki, where traditional flavors meet local ingredients for an unforgettable dining adventure.
I had read mixed reviews about it, but Erika was craving noodles, and it was conveniently located. The restaurant itself was a riot of color, the bright green, red, and yellow interiors a stark contrast to the somber atmosphere of Hashima. We ordered a variety of dishes, including the Champon, Sara Udon, and some Shumai dumplings. The food was… decent. Erika enjoyed the Champon, finding the broth flavorful and comforting. Lena, however, was less impressed, finding it a bit too salty for her taste. I thought the Sara Udon was interesting, the crispy noodles providing a unique textural contrast to the savory sauce. Overall, it was a satisfying meal, but not the culinary highlight of our trip. Perhaps I should have trusted my instincts and tried Kosanro instead, but sometimes it's good to try new things, even if they don't always live up to expectations.

In the late afternoon, we visited the Nagasaki City Museum of History and Folklore.

Explore the rich history and culture of Nagasaki at the City Museum of History and Folklore, a must-visit for every traveler.
This museum offered a comprehensive overview of Nagasaki's rich history, from its early interactions with the West to its role in Japan's modernization. The exhibits were well-curated, with detailed explanations in both Japanese and English. I was particularly fascinated by the displays on the Dutch influence in Nagasaki, the story of Dejima and the Dutch traders who played such a vital role in shaping the city's culture. Erika, with her librarian's eye for detail, spent hours poring over the ancient maps and documents, while Lena was captivated by the displays of traditional Nagasaki arts and crafts. It was a wonderful way to contextualize everything we had seen and experienced throughout the day, to gain a deeper understanding of Nagasaki's unique place in Japanese history.

For dinner, we decided to treat ourselves to a meal at Nagasaki Dejima Wharf.

Explore Nagasaki Dejima Wharf: A historic waterfront destination blending culture, cuisine, and stunning views in Japan's captivating port city.
The wharf was bustling with activity, the restaurants filled with locals and tourists alike. We chose a restaurant with an outdoor terrace, hoping to enjoy the beautiful evening views of the harbor. The meal was delicious, the fresh seafood a testament to Nagasaki's coastal location. Erika and I shared a platter of grilled fish, while Lena opted for a vegetarian pasta dish. As we ate, we watched the boats bobbing in the harbor, the city lights twinkling in the distance. It was the perfect way to end a long and eventful day.

Tomorrow, we're planning a trip to Kujukushima Pearl Sea Resort for some scenic views and hopefully a relaxing cruise. I'm looking forward to seeing the Ninety-Nine Islands and enjoying a bit of nature after today's historical deep dive. We'll probably grab breakfast at Yoshinoya, and I'm already eyeing the Veggie Cafe Bar Nobister for dinner – Lena will be thrilled! Before dinner, we'll check out the Village Vanguard Mirai Nagasaki Cocowalk Shop, which I hear is full of interesting finds.

Today was a day of contrasts, a journey from the haunting ruins of Hashima to the vibrant streets of Nagasaki. It was a day of reflection, discovery, and appreciation. As we head back to the Richmond Hotel Nagasaki Shianbashi,

Experience comfort and convenience at Richmond Hotel Nagasaki Shianbashi, your ideal base for exploring Nagasaki's rich culture and history.
I know that the memories of this day will stay with us long after we leave this fascinating city. The weight of history, the beauty of resilience, and the simple joys of family – these are the things that make travel so enriching, so transformative.