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Saikan: A Pilgrim's Lodge on Sacred Ground

Experience spiritual tradition at Saikan, a Shinto pilgrim lodge on Mount Haguro, offering shojin-ryori cuisine and a gateway to Dewa Sanzan.

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Saikan is a Shinto pilgrim lodge and restaurant located on Mount Haguro, one of the three sacred mountains of Dewa Sanzan. Originally a Buddhist temple built in 1697, it was converted to Shintoism in 1869. Today, it welcomes pilgrims and offers a taste of traditional shojin-ryori cuisine.

A brief summary to Saikan

Local tips

  • Reservations are essential and can only be made by phone. If you require language assistance, ask for help with making your reservation.
  • Be prepared for traditional accommodations with shared facilities and rooms that may not have locks.
  • Allow three days' notice if you have specific dietary requirements, especially if you prefer a vegan version of shojin-ryori.
  • Consider visiting during the Shoreisai festival at the year's end to witness Saikan's role in significant religious activities.
  • Take the traditional approach to the summit via the 2,446 stone steps, allowing time to appreciate the cedar forest and the Five-Storied Pagoda.
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Getting There

  • Bus

    From Tsuruoka Station, take a Shonai Kotsu bus bound for "Haguro Zuishinmon" or "Haguro Sancho". The bus to Haguro Zuishinmon (the base of Mt. Haguro) takes about 40 minutes and costs 840 yen. Some buses continue to Haguro Sancho (the summit), which takes about 55 minutes and costs 1250 yen from Tsuruoka Station. From the bus stop at the summit, Saikan is a short walk.

  • Car

    From Tsuruoka, follow signs for Route 112 towards Mt. Haguro. You can drive to the Haguro Sancho bus stop at the summit via the Hagurosan Toll Road. The toll is 600 yen for an ordinary vehicle. Free parking is available at the top in one of the three parking lots. From the parking lot, Saikan is a short walk. Alternatively, park at the Ideha Cultural Memorial Hall near the Zuishinmon gate and ascend the mountain via the traditional stone steps. Free parking is available.

  • Walking

    From the Zuishinmon gate at the base of Mount Haguro, follow the 2,446 stone steps through the cedar forest to the summit. The walk takes approximately 1.5 - 2 hours. Saikan is located near the Sanjin Gosaiden Shrine at the summit. Be aware that the stone steps can be slippery, so wear appropriate footwear.

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Discover more about Saikan

Saikan, nestled atop Mount Haguro, is more than just a place to rest; it's a journey into the heart of Dewa Sanzan's spiritual traditions. Once the Buddhist temple Shôon'in, constructed in 1697, it transitioned to a Shinto pilgrim lodge following the separation of Shinto and Buddhism in 1869. This followed the Meiji Restoration when the government tried to expel Buddhism. Saikan plays a vital role in Shinto ceremonies, particularly for yamabushi, mountain ascetics who undergo rigorous training in these sacred mountains. It's here that they conclude the Shoreisai ceremony, partaking in Nishi sushi, a local culinary tradition. Chef Ito Shinkichi continues the tradition of Dewa Sanzan shojin-ryori, a vegetarian cuisine originally developed by Buddhist monks, now reinterpreted with Shinto influences. Advance notice is required for vegan preferences. Staying at Saikan offers a glimpse into a simpler way of life. Accommodations are traditional, with shared bathrooms and toilets, and rooms typically lack locks. This encourages a sense of community and introspection, aligning with the spiritual nature of the Dewa Sanzan pilgrimage. Mount Haguro itself is the most accessible of the three mountains, representing the present in the Dewa Sanzan pilgrimage of rebirth. Whether you ascend the 2,446 stone steps through the ancient cedar forest or take the bus to the summit, Saikan provides a welcoming haven for those seeking connection with nature and Japanese spirituality.

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