Saikan, Dewa Travel Guide

Saikan, nestled atop Mount Haguro, is more than just a place to rest; it's a journey into the heart of Dewa Sanzan's spiritual traditions. Once the Buddhist temple Shôon'in, constructed in 1697, it transitioned to a Shinto pilgrim lodge following the separation of Shinto and Buddhism in 1869. This followed the Meiji Restoration when the government tried to expel Buddhism.Saikan plays a vital role in Shinto ceremonies, particularly for yamabushi, mountain ascetics who undergo rigorous training in these sacred mountains. It's here that they conclude the Shoreisai ceremony, partaking in Nishi sushi, a local culinary tradition. Chef Ito Shinkichi continues the tradition of Dewa Sanzan shojin-ryori, a vegetarian cuisine originally developed by Buddhist monks, now reinterpreted with Shinto influences. Advance notice is required for vegan preferences.Staying at Saikan offers a glimpse into a simpler way of life. Accommodations are traditional, with shared bathrooms and toilets, and rooms typically lack locks. This encourages a sense of community and introspection, aligning with the spiritual nature of the Dewa Sanzan pilgrimage.Mount Haguro itself is the most accessible of the three mountains, representing the present in the Dewa Sanzan pilgrimage of rebirth. Whether you ascend the 2,446 stone steps through the ancient cedar forest or take the bus to the summit, Saikan provides a welcoming haven for those seeking connection with nature and Japanese spirituality.