Tōkei-ji: The Divorce Temple

Tōkei-ji, formally known as Shōkozan Tōkei-ji, is a Rinzai Zen Buddhist temple located in Kita-Kamakura. Founded in 1285 by Kakusan-ni, the widow of Hōjō Tokimune, it served as a sanctuary for women seeking escape from abusive marriages during a time when divorce was nearly impossible for women to obtain. This unique role earned it the names 'Kakekomi-dera' (Temple into which one runs for refuge) and 'Enkiri-dera' (Divorce Temple). For over 600 years, Tōkei-ji provided a safe haven where women could seek refuge and, after a period of service, obtain a divorce. The temple's abbesses were often noblewomen, including imperial princesses, granting the temple significant prestige and protection. It's estimated that around 2,000 women sought shelter here during the Tokugawa period alone. In 1873, the temple lost its right to grant divorces, and in 1902, it transitioned from a nunnery to a monastery, opening its doors to men. Today, Tōkei-ji is open to all visitors and is celebrated for its beautiful seasonal flowers, including plum blossoms, cherry blossoms, hydrangeas and autumn foliage. The temple grounds feature several structures, including the main hall (rebuilt in 1935 after the Great Kanto Earthquake), a bell tower (which survived the earthquake), tea houses and a treasure house. The treasure house displays Buddhist artifacts and lacquer work from the temple's history. The main hall enshrines a seated statue of Shaka Nyorai. The temple also has a graveyard with the graves of notable figures like Zen master D.T. Suzuki. Photography is prohibited on the temple grounds.