Family Heritage Journey to Harar

A Day Steeped in Tradition

Today in Harar was a whirlwind of experiences, blending the thrill of wildlife encounters with the deep resonance of history and the simple joy of connecting with local culture. It’s days like these that remind me why I love to travel, especially when I can share it with Hans-Peter and Lila. Harar continues to surprise and enchant us at every turn.

Our day began with a delightful breakfast at Muna Restaurant. It's quickly becoming a favorite spot for its authentic Ethiopian flavors and cozy atmosphere. Lila especially loved the injera with shiro, while Hans-Peter enjoyed a strong cup of Harari coffee. Starting the day with such a hearty and delicious meal set the perfect tone for our adventures.


Discover the rich flavors of Ethiopia at Muna Restaurant in Harar - a must-visit for food enthusiasts seeking authentic local cuisine.

Next on our itinerary was a visit to the famous Hyena Feeding site. I had heard so much about this unique tradition, and I was both excited and a little apprehensive. The practice of feeding hyenas in Harar has been going on for centuries, with some theories suggesting it began as a way to keep the hyenas from attacking livestock during times of famine. Others say it started as a way to sanitize the city, with the hyenas consuming organic refuse.


Experience the remarkable tradition of hyena feeding in Harar, Ethiopia, where wildlife and culture intertwine in a captivating evening spectacle.

Whatever the reason, it’s an incredible sight to behold. As darkness began to fall, we made our way to the feeding spot just outside the city walls. The hyena man, a local figure who has inherited this role from his father, was already there, preparing the meat. He calls out to the hyenas in a special dialect, a mix of English and Oromo, and they emerge from the darkness, their eyes gleaming in the twilight. It was a bit unnerving to see these powerful creatures up close, but also mesmerizing. Lila was understandably a bit scared at first, but she soon warmed up to the spectacle, watching in awe as the hyena man fed them pieces of meat, some even from his mouth.

The hyenas' luck is Harar's luck; their prosperity, our prosperity.

The hyena man seemed to have a genuine connection with these animals, knowing each one by name. It’s a relationship built on trust and respect, a testament to the unique coexistence between humans and wildlife in Harar. I couldn’t help but feel a sense of wonder at this ancient tradition, a ritual that has been passed down through generations.

After the exhilarating hyena feeding, we sought a place to have lunch and ended up at Betemengist restaurant. The restaurant was adorned with local art and artifacts that tell stories of Harar's heritage. We enjoyed injera with flavorful stews. The staff was very welcoming, providing recommendations and sharing stories about the dishes.


Experience authentic Ethiopian cuisine at Betemengist in Harar - where every meal tells a story.

Our next stop was the Ras Makonnen Statue. Ras Makonnen, the father of Emperor Haile Selassie I, was a significant figure in Ethiopian history, serving as a general and governor of Harar province. The statue, located in the center of Ras Makonnen Square, is a tribute to his contributions. I remember reading about the statue when I was growing up in Harar, and it felt important to show Lila this piece of our history.


Explore the Ras Makonnen Statue in Harar, a significant tribute to Ethiopia's rich heritage and history, surrounded by vibrant local culture.

Unfortunately, the original equestrian statue, a collaboration between Ethiopian artist Afewerk Tekle and Croatian sculptors, was destroyed some years ago. It was quite disheartening to learn about its destruction, reportedly by radicals, as it felt like a piece of our shared history was erased. I remember when the statue was erected; it was a symbol of progress and unity. It's a shame that political tensions led to its demise. However, there is a new statue in its place now.

Despite this, standing in the square, I felt a sense of pride and connection to my heritage. I explained to Lila who Ras Makonnen was and his importance in Ethiopian history. It was a moment of reflection, a reminder of the complexities of our past and the importance of preserving our cultural heritage.

Before dinner, we decided to do some shopping at AYA BOUTIQUE AND COLLECTION. I wanted to find some traditional Harari clothing for Lila to take back to Munich. The boutique was a treasure trove of vibrant colors and intricate designs. Lila was immediately drawn to the beautifully crafted scarves and dresses, each piece telling a story of Harari culture. I ended up buying her a lovely hand-embroidered dress and a colorful scarf, which she immediately wore with pride.


Explore AYA Boutique in Harar for unique handmade treasures that embody the spirit of Ethiopian craftsmanship and culture.

Shopping at AYA BOUTIQUE was more than just a retail experience; it was an immersion into the local culture. The shop owner was incredibly kind, sharing stories about the artisans who created the pieces and the significance of the designs. It’s these personal connections that make traveling so rewarding.

For dinner, we chose Midre Genet Restaurant, known for its authentic Ethiopian cuisine and cozy ambiance. The restaurant was beautifully decorated with traditional artwork, creating a warm and inviting atmosphere. We ordered a variety of dishes, including injera with different types of wot (stew), each bursting with flavor. Lila, who is usually a picky eater, surprised us by trying everything and even asking for seconds.


Experience authentic Ethiopian cuisine at Midre Genet Restaurant in Harar - where every meal tells a story.

The staff at Midre Genet were incredibly hospitable, making us feel like we were dining in their home. They shared stories about the food and the local culture, adding to the overall experience. It was the perfect way to end a day filled with adventure and discovery.

As we walked back to my family's home, the sounds of Harar filled the night air – the chatter of locals, the distant call of the hyenas, and the gentle breeze rustling through the trees. I felt a deep sense of gratitude for this day, for the opportunity to share my birthplace with my family and to reconnect with my roots.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore the Asmadin Gate and the Aw Abdal Mosque, continuing our journey through Harar’s rich history and culture. We also plan to visit Harar Brewery S.C. for drinks. I’m excited to see what new adventures await us.

Harar continues to captivate me with its unique blend of tradition and modernity, its vibrant culture, and its warm, welcoming people. It’s a place where the past and present coexist, where ancient rituals are still practiced, and where the spirit of Ethiopia shines brightly. I’m so grateful to be able to share this experience with Hans-Peter and Lila, creating memories that will last a lifetime.

As I reflect on today, I am reminded of the importance of embracing the unknown, of stepping outside of our comfort zones, and of seeking out authentic cultural experiences. It’s in these moments that we truly connect with the world and with ourselves. And as the Hararis say,

“Ten camels can pass through one gate, but it is not wide enough for two men to pass grudges.”

Good night from Harar!