Family Adventure in the Heart of Fes

Echoes of History and Art in Fes

Today was a day of diving deep into the artistic and historical heart of Fes. With my family by my side, I was eager to explore the city's cultural treasures and share the experience with them. The morning light filtering through the narrow streets of the medina promised a day filled with beauty and discovery. I was particularly excited to see the Al Attarine Madrasa, a place I had read so much about, and to wander through the Dar Batha Museum, hoping to glimpse the soul of Moroccan art.

Our day began with a delightful breakfast at Fez & Friends. The cozy café, just outside the medina, was the perfect spot to fuel up for our explorations. I opted for a traditional Moroccan breakfast, complete with msemen, honey, and mint tea. Saoirse, ever the adventurous eater, tried a bit of everything, while Hans enjoyed his usual strong coffee. The atmosphere was relaxed and friendly, a great start to what promised to be a busy day. Fez & Friends seems to be quite popular, offering a mix of Moroccan and international dishes, and I can certainly see why.

With our bellies full and our spirits high, we ventured into the heart of the medina, our first stop being the Al Attarine Madrasa. The madrasa, a former religious school, is a masterpiece of Marinid architecture. As we stepped through the doorway, we were immediately struck by the intricate details of the courtyard. The walls were adorned with elaborate stucco carvings, the floors covered in vibrant zellij tiles, and the cedarwood ceiling was a work of art in itself. I found myself lost in the geometric patterns and the delicate calligraphy, each element telling a story of faith and craftsmanship.


Explore the enchanting Al Attarine Madrasa, a historical landmark in Fes showcasing intricate Moroccan architecture and rich cultural heritage.

In the heart of Fes, history whispers through the intricate details of its ancient architecture, inviting you to listen.

Saoirse was particularly fascinated by the small student rooms on the upper floor, imagining what it must have been like to live and study in such a beautiful place centuries ago. I tried to explain the significance of the madrasa as a center of learning and Islamic scholarship, but I think the sheer beauty of the building spoke volumes on its own. The Al Attarine Madrasa truly felt like stepping back in time, a testament to the rich cultural heritage of Fes. I was impressed by the virtuosity of the decoration, as the Michelin Guide puts it, another treasure left by the Marinids.

Leaving the madrasa, we made our way to the Dar Batha Museum, housed in a former royal palace. The museum is dedicated to Moroccan arts and crafts, showcasing a diverse collection of ceramics, textiles, woodwork, and metalwork. As we wandered through the galleries, I was struck by the incredible skill and artistry of the Moroccan artisans. The famous blue pottery of Fes was particularly captivating, its intricate patterns and vibrant colors a feast for the eyes. Saoirse was drawn to the displays of traditional jewelry, admiring the delicate silver necklaces and ornate bracelets.


Immerse yourself in the vibrant culture of Morocco at Dar Batha Museum, Fes, where history and art converge.

The Dar Batha Museum is not just notable for its collections but also for its stunning architecture. The building showcases traditional Moroccan architectural styles, including intricate tile work, carved wooden ceilings, and beautiful gardens. The museum boasts some of Morocco's most exquisite collections of antiques, astrolabes, aleju (Fes gold thread), traditional Fassie art works such as embroideries, zellij, sculpted works, jewelry, iron works, Korans, carpets and ceramics. I was particularly impressed by the collection of astrolabes, intricate astronomical instruments used by classical astronomers. It was fascinating to learn about the history of science and mathematics in the Islamic world and to see these beautiful objects up close.

After immersing ourselves in the art and history of the museum, we decided to take a break and find a spot for lunch. We stumbled upon Nagham Cafe, a charming little restaurant near Place Rcif. The cafe had a relaxed atmosphere, with colorful cushions and traditional Moroccan decor. I ordered a tagine, while Hans opted for a sandwich and Saoirse chose a salad. The food was simple but delicious, and the prices were very reasonable. It was the perfect place to rest our feet and recharge before continuing our explorations.


Savor authentic Moroccan cuisine and fast food delights at Nagham Cafe in Fès – where every bite tells a story.

With renewed energy, we ventured into Place Rcif, a bustling square in the heart of the medina. The square was filled with people going about their daily lives, vendors selling their wares, and children playing games. It was a vibrant and chaotic scene, a true reflection of the energy of Fes. I tried to imagine what the square was like during the riots and protests that occurred across multiple Moroccan cities in late 1937 against the French Protectorate authorities, with the R'cif Mosque as a prominent rallying point.


Explore the vibrant community of Place Rcif in Fes, a cultural hub full of local crafts, delicious cuisine, and rich traditions waiting to be discovered.

From Place Rcif, we made our way to the Cooperative Artisanal de Fes, a shop showcasing the work of local artisans. I was eager to find a special souvenir to take home, something that would remind me of our time in Fes. The cooperative offered a wide range of products, from ceramics and textiles to leather goods and woodwork. I was particularly drawn to the handwoven carpets, their intricate designs and vibrant colors a testament to the skill of the Berber weavers. I ended up purchasing a small rug with a geometric pattern, perfect for adding a touch of Moroccan flair to our home in Berlin.


Explore handcrafted Moroccan treasures at Cooperative Artisanal de Fes, where tradition meets creativity in a vibrant marketplace.

As the day drew to a close, we made our way to Bistro Laaroussa for dinner. The bistro, located in a beautifully restored riad, offered a sophisticated take on Moroccan cuisine. We dined on the rooftop terrace, enjoying panoramic views of the city as the sun set over the medina. I savored a delicious tagine, while Hans enjoyed a Mediterranean-inspired dish. Saoirse, of course, opted for dessert, a decadent chocolate mousse that she declared the best she had ever tasted.


Discover authentic Moroccan cuisine at Bistro Laaroussa in Fes, where tradition meets modern dining in a charming atmosphere.

The bistro serves home-style Moroccan specialties and Mediterranean dishes, everything prepared with fresh and local ingredients. The wine list is a delightful tour through Morocco's modern vineyards. It was a perfect way to end our day of exploring the artistic and historical treasures of Fes.

Reflecting on the day, I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience the rich culture and history of Fes with my family. From the intricate beauty of the Al Attarine Madrasa to the vibrant energy of Place Rcif, every moment was filled with wonder and discovery. I was also happy to have supported the local artisans by purchasing a rug at the Cooperative Artisanal de Fes.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore more of Fes, including the Talaa Kebira, Bab Boujloud, and the Marinid Tombs. I'm also looking forward to enjoying a drink at the Zen Garden bar in the evening. As I drifted off to sleep, I couldn't help but feel excited about what tomorrow would bring.

Fes has truly captured my heart, and I can't wait to see what other treasures it holds. This city is a living museum, a testament to the enduring power of art, culture, and history.