Family Adventure in the Heart of Fes

Beyond the Medina Walls

Today, we ventured beyond the labyrinthine alleys of the Fes medina, eager to uncover more of this city's captivating history and diverse cultural tapestry. It was a day filled with striking contrasts, from the imposing heights of a historic fortress to the serene beauty of a meticulously restored palace, and the poignant stories etched within the walls of the old Jewish Quarter. Each location offered a unique perspective on Fes, enriching our understanding of its complex past and vibrant present.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Restaurant Ouliya. The warm hospitality and traditional Moroccan fare set the perfect tone for our explorations. Rachid, the owner, made us feel incredibly welcome, sharing stories about Fes and offering tips for our day ahead. Saoirse especially loved the Moroccan pancakes, while Hans and I savored the flavorful mint tea. Fuelled up and ready to go, we set off to our first destination: Borj Nord.


Discover the captivating military history of Morocco at Borj Nord Museum, a historical landmark offering stunning views and rich cultural insights.

A Glimpse into Morocco's Military History at Borj Nord

The Borj Nord Museum, also known as the Al-Burj ash-Shamali, was quite the sight. Perched high on a hill, the fortress offered a panoramic view of Fes that stretched as far as the eye could see. Built in the late 16th century by the Saadi Sultan Ahmad al-Mansur, it was clearly modeled after Portuguese forts of the time. I could see why it was strategically placed; it offered an unparalleled vantage point. The climb up was a bit of a workout, but the views were more than worth it. Saoirse was fascinated by the cannons, imagining what it must have been like to defend the city from this very spot centuries ago.

Inside the museum, we were immersed in Morocco's military history. The collection of weaponry from around the world was impressive, ranging from ancient swords to 20th-century firearms. I was particularly struck by the Saadian cannon used in the Battle of Three Kings in 1578. As an ESL teacher, I often find myself drawing parallels between historical events and contemporary issues, and today was no different. Seeing the tools of conflict gathered from so many different cultures, I couldn't help but reflect on the enduring human fascination with warfare.

History is a vast early warning system.

After soaking in the views and the history at Borj Nord, we made our way to Palais Mnebhi. This time, Hans navigated, and even he got us turned around a few times. But that's part of the fun, isn't it? We eventually found our way, and what a sight it was!


Discover the perfect blend of exquisite Moroccan cuisine and rich history at Palais Mnebhi, an iconic restaurant in the heart of Fes.

Opulence and Intrigue at Palais Mnebhi

Palais Mnebhi, also known as Dar Mnebhi, was a stark contrast to the ruggedness of Borj Nord. This early 20th-century palace exuded opulence and refinement. Built by Mehdi Mnebhi, a defense minister, it was a prime example of Moroccan craftsmanship. The palace is also historically significant as the place where the Treaty of Fes was signed in 1912, establishing French colonial rule over Morocco. It later served as the residence of the French Resident-General, Lyautey.

The architecture was stunning, with intricate mosaics, carved stucco, and a grand courtyard. The vast reception hall, with its high wooden dome supported by four columns, was breathtaking. Saoirse was particularly taken with the zellij mosaic tiles, marveling at the vibrant colors and intricate patterns. I could only imagine the lavish events that must have taken place within these walls. Walking through the palace, I felt transported back in time, imagining the sultans and dignitaries who once graced these halls.

After exploring the palace, we were ready for lunch. We headed to Restaurant MB, recommended for its blend of French and Moroccan cuisine. The restaurant was situated in Ville Nouvelle, providing a nice contrast to the medina. The decor was modern and stylish, and the menu offered a wide selection of dishes. I opted for the traditional pigeon pastilla, while Hans tried the ocean roll of shrimp and fish. Saoirse, ever adventurous, chose the lamb tagine. Every dish was delicious, and the service was excellent. It was a delightful culinary experience that perfectly complemented our historical explorations.

With our bellies full and our spirits high, we ventured into the Mellah, Fes's historic Jewish Quarter.


Explore the historic Mellah of Fes, a vibrant Jewish quarter rich in culture, history, and unique shopping experiences, perfect for any traveler.

A Walk Through History in the Mellah

The Mellah was a poignant reminder of Fes's diverse past. Established in 1438, it was once a thriving Jewish community, and though its population has dwindled over the centuries, its history is palpable. The architecture was distinct from the rest of the medina, with enclosed balconies and a unique character. Walking through the narrow streets, I tried to imagine what life must have been like for the Jewish families who once called this place home.

We visited the Aben Danan Synagogue, a hidden gem tucked away behind an unassuming door. Dating back to the 17th century, it was dedicated to the Jews expelled from Spain in 1492. The synagogue has been beautifully restored and is now cared for by Muslim guardians, a testament to the coexistence that once thrived in Fes. We also visited the Jewish cemetery, a vast expanse of white tombs that stretched across the hillside. It was a somber but moving experience, a reminder of the lives and stories that have shaped this city.

As we wandered through the Mellah, I reflected on the importance of preserving these historical sites. They serve as a reminder of the past, both its triumphs and its tragedies, and offer valuable lessons for the future. As we continue our travels, I am increasingly aware of the responsibility we have to learn from history and to promote understanding and tolerance between different cultures and communities.

The past is never dead. It's not even past.

Our day ended with dinner at Les Jardins de Sheherazade, a restaurant known for its beautiful setting and traditional Moroccan cuisine. The atmosphere was magical, with twinkling lights and the scent of jasmine in the air. We savored the flavors of tagine and couscous, reflecting on the day's adventures. As the sun set over Fes, we made our way to Rooftop Nour Plazza for a nightcap. Sipping mint tea under the stars, we enjoyed a stunning view of the city. It was the perfect end to a perfect day.


Discover Rooftop Nour Plazza, a vibrant bar in Fes offering stunning views and a taste of Moroccan hospitality in the heart of the city.

Tomorrow, we plan to delve deeper into the heart of the medina, visiting the Al Attarine Madrasa, the Dar Batha Museum, and Place Rcif. We are also hoping to do some shopping at the Cooperative Artisanal de Fes. I'm looking forward to discovering more of Fes's hidden treasures and sharing them with you all. Until then, *ma'a as-salama* (goodbye) from Fes!

P.S. I almost forgot! We saw posters around town for the Esprit de Fès, a sacred music festival. Turns out, it started on May 16th and runs until the 24th! What luck! Clément Janinet and Adama Sidibé are performing a Concerto for Sokou tonight. If we weren't so tired from the day's adventures, I would have loved to go. Perhaps we can squeeze in another performance before the festival ends. What a treat that would be!