Family Adventure in the Heart of Fes

A Day in the Labyrinth

Today was a day of getting wonderfully lost. Not the kind of lost that fills you with anxiety, but the kind where you stumble upon hidden gems and unexpected moments of beauty. Fes El Bali, the oldest part of the city, is a maze of narrow streets and vibrant life, and I was eager to dive right in.


Explore the historic Fes El Bali, a UNESCO World Heritage site brimming with ancient architecture, vibrant souks, and rich Moroccan culture.

Our day began with breakfast at Le Tarbouche. The aroma of spices and freshly baked bread filled the air as we found a cozy spot outside. I opted for a traditional Moroccan breakfast, complete with mint tea, of course. Saoirse was particularly excited about the pastries, while Hans enjoyed a hearty tagine. It was the perfect way to fuel up for a day of exploration.


Savor authentic Moroccan flavors at Le Tarbouche in Fes – where tradition meets culinary delight.

With our bellies full, we ventured into the heart of Fes el Bali. The medina is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and it's easy to see why. The narrow, winding streets are a sensory overload – the sounds of artisans hammering metal, the smells of spices and leather, and the sights of colorful textiles and intricate tilework. It’s easy to get turned around, but that’s part of the fun. Every corner reveals something new and exciting.

Our first stop was the Aben Danan Synagogue. Tucked away in the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter, this 17th-century synagogue is a hidden gem. From the outside, it looks unassuming, blending in with the surrounding buildings. But inside, it’s a beautiful space, with intricate tilework, carved wood, and a serene atmosphere. I was particularly struck by the bimah, with its wrought iron canopy of Islamic-style arches and floral designs. It's a testament to the rich Jewish heritage in Morocco and the coexistence of different cultures throughout history. Saoirse was intrigued by the stories of the Jewish community that once thrived here, and it sparked a great conversation about religious tolerance and cultural preservation.


Explore the Aben Danan Synagogue in Fes, a stunning historical site showcasing Morocco's rich Jewish heritage and architectural beauty.

The beauty of travel lies not just in seeing new places, but in discovering new perspectives.

Leaving the synagogue, we continued our wanderings, eventually finding ourselves at the Andalusian Mosque. Founded in the 9th century by Maryam bint Mohammed al-Fihri, the sister of Fatima al-Fihri who founded the Qarawiyyin Mosque, it stands as a testament to the city's rich history and cultural exchange. The mosque, named after the Andalusian refugees who settled in this area, is a beautiful example of Moroccan architecture, with its intricate zellij tilework and carved cedarwood. Although non-Muslims can't enter the prayer hall, we admired the stunning architecture from the outside and soaked in the peaceful atmosphere. I couldn't help but reflect on the stories of the Andalusian people who sought refuge here centuries ago, bringing with them their knowledge, skills, and traditions.


Explore the Andalusian Mosque in Fes, a stunning example of Islamic architecture and a cultural cornerstone in Morocco's historical landscape.

By lunchtime, we were ready for a break. We found a charming little restaurant called Chez Hakim, known for its traditional Moroccan cuisine. The restaurant was small and cozy, with a family-run feel. We ordered a variety of dishes, including chicken couscous, harira soup, and vegetable tagine. The food was simple but delicious, and the prices were very reasonable. It was the perfect spot to recharge before continuing our exploration.


Experience authentic Moroccan flavors at Chez Hakim in Fès - a family-friendly restaurant serving delicious traditional cuisine.

After lunch, we decided to indulge in a little retail therapy. Fes is famous for its handicrafts, and I was eager to find some unique souvenirs. We stumbled upon Medin Art, a concept store showcasing the work of local designers. I was immediately drawn to the silk scarves, leather bags, and handmade notebooks. Saoirse found a beautiful piece of jewelry, while Hans picked out a leather belt. It was great to support local artisans and find something special to remember our trip by. I found a beautiful hand-painted bowl that I knew would look perfect on our dining table back in Berlin. The shop owner was incredibly kind and shared stories about the artists he represented. It's these personal connections that make traveling so rewarding.


Discover authentic Moroccan handicrafts at Medin Art in Fes, where tradition meets creativity in a beautiful collection of unique treasures.

As the afternoon wore on, the medina became even more vibrant, with locals going about their daily lives. We watched artisans crafting intricate mosaics, bakers preparing bread in traditional ovens, and merchants selling their wares in the bustling souks. It was a feast for the senses, and I felt grateful to be able to experience it with my family. We even managed to haggle for a beautiful Berber carpet, a skill I'm slowly but surely mastering! The process was a bit intimidating at first, but with a bit of good-natured banter, we managed to get a price we were all happy with.

For dinner, we had reservations at Eden at Palais Amani, a renowned restaurant known for its modern take on Moroccan cuisine. The setting was stunning – a beautiful riad with a tranquil courtyard. We opted for the four-course tasting menu, which included a variety of traditional dishes with a contemporary twist. The flavors were incredible, and the presentation was impeccable. It was a truly memorable dining experience. The chicken pastilla with almonds was a particular highlight, undoubtedly one of the best I have enjoyed in Morocco. The ambiance, with tree-hung lanterns and the sound of a fountain, added to the magic of the evening.


Experience the exquisite fusion of Moroccan and French cuisine in a historic palace setting at Eden at Palais Amani.

As we walked back to our riad, the sounds of the city began to fade, replaced by the quiet hum of the night. Today was a whirlwind of sights, sounds, and experiences, and I felt grateful for every moment. Fes el Bali is a place that stays with you long after you leave, and I know that the memories we made today will be cherished for years to come.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit the Borj Nord Museum, Palais Mnebhi, and explore the Mellah further. I'm also looking forward to enjoying a sundowner at Rooftop Nour Plazza. Each day in Fes brings new adventures, and I can't wait to see what tomorrow holds.

Before drifting off to sleep, I made a mental note to buy a power adapter – still kicking myself for forgetting that essential item! And perhaps a portable phone charger, as my phone battery barely made it through the day with all the photos and videos I was taking. Travel is all about learning, after all, and I'm definitely learning to be a more prepared traveler!

I’m so glad I get to share this experience with Hans and Saoirse. Seeing the wonder in Saoirse's eyes as she explores this ancient city makes it all the more special. And having Hans by my side, with his calm demeanor and knack for navigating, makes the chaos of the medina feel a little less overwhelming. It truly is a family adventure, and I wouldn't have it any other way.