Family Adventure in the Cultural Heart of Japan: Kyoto

Echoes of the Shogunate and Modern Manga

Today in Kyoto was a delightful blend of historical grandeur and contemporary pop culture. From the majestic Nijo Castle, where the echoes of shoguns still resonate, to the vibrant Kyoto International Manga Museum, where the stories of today are being drawn, it was a day of contrasts that beautifully captured the essence of this city. I’m always fascinated by how Japan manages to preserve its rich history while embracing the modern world, and today was a perfect example of that.

Our day began with a hearty vegan breakfast at AIN SOPH. Journey KYOTO. It's always a joy to find a place that caters so well to my dietary preferences, and this little gem near Nishiki Market was a treat. I opted for their famous heavenly vegan pancakes – fluffy, light, and the perfect start to a day of exploration. Hans, of course, enjoyed his coffee, and Elif was thrilled with her matcha latte. Fuelled up and ready to go, we set off to immerse ourselves in Kyoto's rich tapestry.

Our first stop was Nijo Castle. As we approached the imposing gates, I couldn't help but feel a sense of awe. This castle, built in 1603 by Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first shogun of the Edo Period, is a UNESCO World Heritage site and a true testament to the power and artistry of the era. The castle has witnessed some of the most important events in Japanese history. It served as the Kyoto residence of the Shogun. Ieyasu came to Nijo-jo Castle to announce his appointment to the feudal lords. In 1867, the 15th Shogun, Tokugawa Yoshinobu summoned the senior vassals to announce the end of Tokugawa rule.


Explore the grandeur of Nijō Castle, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Kyoto, showcasing the beauty of feudal Japan's architecture and gardens.

Walking through the vast complex, I was struck by the sheer scale of the place. The intricate details of the Ninomaru Palace, with its 'nightingale floors' designed to squeak underfoot to alert of intruders, were fascinating. The opulent wall paintings and meticulously maintained gardens transported me back to a time of samurai and shoguns. I could almost imagine the bustling court and the weighty decisions that were made within those walls.

History is not a burden on the memory but an illumination of the soul.

The plum orchard was just beginning to bloom, adding a touch of early spring color to the landscape. It was a bit early for the full cherry blossom display, but the subtle hints of pink were a welcome sight. I made a mental note to remember to bring sunscreen next time, as the sun was already quite strong, a little travel essential I had forgotten. As a textile artist, I was particularly captivated by the patterns and motifs used in the palace's decorations. The craftsmanship was exquisite, and I found myself drawing inspiration from the traditional designs.

After soaking up the history at Nijo Castle, we were ready for lunch. We chose Komefuku, a local restaurant known for its delicious and affordable tempura. It was a delightful experience. The tempura was light and crispy, and the seafood was incredibly fresh. Hans enjoyed a set meal, while Elif opted for a sushi and tempura combination. I savored every bite of my tempura, appreciating the simple yet elegant flavors.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Komefuku in Kyoto, renowned for its fresh seafood and exquisite tempura dishes.

With our bellies full and our spirits high, we made our way to the Kyoto International Manga Museum. This was a complete change of pace from the historical grandeur of Nijo Castle, but equally fascinating in its own right. Housed in a former elementary school dating back to 1929, the museum is a celebration of all things manga.


Explore the rich world of manga at the Kyoto International Manga Museum, a cultural haven for enthusiasts and curious visitors alike.

As we stepped inside, we were greeted by walls lined with shelves upon shelves of manga. The museum boasts a collection of approximately 300,000 manga materials, with 50,000 of these available for visitors to read freely within the museum grounds. It was like stepping into a giant library of comics! Elif was in her element, browsing through the vast selection and discovering new artists and series. I was impressed by the museum's dedication to preserving and promoting this unique art form. I even found a small section dedicated to translated manga, which was a nice touch.

We spent hours exploring the museum, reading manga on the lawn, and admiring the various exhibits. The museum also features temporary exhibitions on various themes. The building itself, which was previously an elementary school, added to the charm of the experience. Some relics of the former school are on display for visitors. It was a fun and engaging way to learn about Japanese culture and art. The Kyoto International Manga Museum also offers workshops for groups and individuals, where you can learn about manga drawing techniques from professional artists.

Before dinner, we indulged in a bit of shopping at Takashimaya Kyoto S.C.. This department store is a Kyoto institution, known for its high-end fashion, cosmetics, and souvenirs. I found a beautiful silk scarf with a traditional Japanese design, which I plan to use as inspiration for my textile art. Hans picked up a few small gifts for his colleagues back in Stuttgart, and Elif found a trendy new outfit. Takashimaya offers a world-class shopping experience, with elegant displays and exceptional customer service.


Explore Takashimaya Kyoto S.C. for an unforgettable shopping experience, blending tradition and modernity in the heart of Kyoto.

As evening approached, we made our way to French Dining Top of Kyoto for dinner. Located on the 14th floor of the Rihga Royal Hotel Kyoto, this revolving restaurant offers panoramic views of the city. It was the perfect way to end our day of exploration.


Discover the exquisite flavors of French cuisine at French Dining Top of Kyoto – where culinary artistry meets stunning views.

The food was exquisite, a fusion of French culinary techniques and Japanese ingredients. The stunning 360-degree scenery harmonizes beautifully with the elegant atmosphere. I savored every course, appreciating the artistry and attention to detail that went into each dish. Hans and Elif were equally impressed, and we all agreed that it was one of the best meals we've had in Kyoto. The stunning 360-degree scenery harmonizes beautifully with the interior, which is adorned with hand-printed traditional Japanese paper. It was a truly special dining experience, and a fitting end to a day filled with history, art, and culture.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore the Philosopher's Path and Nanzen-ji Temple, continuing our journey through Kyoto's cultural landscape. I am particularly looking forward to a tranquil walk along the Philosopher's Path, a serene canal-side trail that is said to be one of the most beautiful walks in Japan. It is named after the philosopher Nishida Kitaro, who used to meditate while walking this route. We will have breakfast at Kakyo, lunch at Katsukura Tonkatsu Sanjo Main Store, and dinner at MUGHAL Indian Restaurant & Bar. Perhaps we will round off the day with a visit to Bar K6.

For now, though, it's time to rest and recharge for another day of adventure. Kyoto continues to surprise and delight me at every turn. I am so grateful to be able to share these experiences with my family, creating memories that will last a lifetime.

I am also glad I didn't forget my phrasebook as I continue to learn new words each day. I find engaging with locals in their native language enriches the travel experience.

Until tomorrow,

Ayşe