A Solo Cultural Exploration in Fes, Morocco

Whispers of History and Art

Today in Fes, I found myself wandering deeper into the city's soul, tracing the footsteps of scholars and artisans. The day unfolded as a tapestry woven with threads of history, spirituality, and the vibrant colors of Moroccan artistry. It was a day of exploration that resonated with my love for cultural immersion, reminding me of the richness and depth that travel brings into our lives.

My day began with a delightful breakfast at Darori, a charming restaurant known for its traditional Moroccan cuisine served in a stunning 17th-century riad. The intricate tile work and beautiful architecture transported me to another time. I savored a traditional Moroccan breakfast, fueling up for a day of exploration. The staff was incredibly friendly, offering not just food but also little history lessons about the building itself. I felt so welcomed, like I was part of their family. It reminded me of the warmth I often feel when cooking traditional Venezuelan dishes for Hans, sharing not just the food but the stories behind them.

With a full stomach and a heart eager for discovery, I ventured towards the Mosque and University Kairaouine. As I approached, the weight of history settled upon me. Founded in 859 by Fatima al-Fihri, a woman of immense vision, it stands as one of the oldest universities in the world. Though non-Muslims aren't allowed to enter the mosque itself, just being in its vicinity was a profound experience. I imagined the countless scholars who had walked these paths, their minds shaping the course of history. The architecture spoke of centuries of devotion and intellectual pursuit. It was humbling to think that this institution, born from the generosity of a woman, had been a beacon of knowledge for over a thousand years. The Kairaouine Mosque has two minarets, with the original minaret being the oldest Islamic monument in Fes. In the courtyard is a large fountain that was inspired by the Alhambra at Granada, Spain.

Sometimes, the most profound experiences are not about seeing with our eyes, but feeling with our hearts.

Next on my itinerary was the Palais Mnebhi, also known as the Menebhi Palace. This early 20th-century palace is a testament to the opulence and artistry of Moroccan architecture. I was immediately struck by its lavish design and intricate details. The palace is historically significant, as it was where the Treaty of Fes was signed in 1912, establishing French colonial rule over Morocco. The vast reception hall, with its high wooden dome-like ceiling and ornate wall fountain decorated with zellij mosaic tiles, was breathtaking. I wandered through the palace, imagining the historical events that had unfolded within its walls. It's incredible to think that this palace also served as the first residence of the French resident-general, Lyautey. The palace is located on one of the main souq streets of the city. The Mnebhi Palace was built by Mehdi Mnebhi, who was the defense minister of Sultan Abdelaziz between 1900 and 1908.

For lunch, I savored the culinary delights of Restaurant Ouliya. This restaurant is known for blending authentic Moroccan cuisine with the cultural richness of Fes Medina. I enjoyed a tagine, a traditional Moroccan dish cooked to perfection. The flavors were rich and complex, a testament to the culinary legacy of the region. The ambiance was inviting, and the staff made me feel incredibly welcome. It was a delightful experience that left me feeling satisfied and connected to the local culture. I learned that Restaurant Ouliya is located in a building full of beautiful mosaic and has a terrace with a view of the city center.

In the afternoon, I decided to indulge in some shopping at Art Fez. As I stepped into the shop, I was greeted by a kaleidoscope of colors and intricate designs. The store is known for its exquisite craftsmanship and vibrant pottery. I watched as artisans skillfully shaped clay, applying time-honored techniques to create unique pieces of art. From functional household items to ornamental masterpieces, each piece reflected the rich cultural heritage of Fes. I purchased a small, hand-painted bowl as a memento of my journey, a reminder of the artistry and passion that permeates this city. I found out that Art Fès is located on the main street of Talaa Kebira and that they sell shoes made from cactus fiber and camel hair.

As the day began to wane, I made my way to the Viewpoint Medina. Perched high above the city, it offered a breathtaking panorama of Fes. The sprawling medina unfolded before me, a maze of narrow alleys, bustling souks, and majestic mosques. The setting sun cast a golden hue across the city, creating a magical atmosphere. I stood there, soaking in the beauty and serenity of the moment. It was a perfect way to reflect on the day's adventures and appreciate the unique charm of Fes. From this viewpoint, I could see the Marinid Tombs in the distance. The sunset from the tombs is supposed to be amazing. The constructions date back to the 14th century, during the Marinid dynasty.

For my final meal of the day, I chose to dine at La Truffe. This restaurant offered a delightful fusion of Mediterranean and Moroccan flavors. The ambiance was cozy and inviting, and the food was exceptional. I savored each bite, reflecting on the incredible experiences of the day. It was the perfect ending to a day of cultural immersion and artistic discovery. I enjoyed the calming atmosphere and the waiters were very hospitable. The background music was chill and relaxing. I had the Caesar salad and pizza.

As I walked back to my accommodation, I couldn't help but feel grateful for the experiences of the day. Fes had revealed its beauty and depth, leaving an indelible mark on my soul. It was a reminder that travel is not just about seeing new places, but about connecting with different cultures and discovering the shared humanity that binds us all. I thought of Hans, and how much he would have loved to experience this with me. I made a mental note to try and recreate some of the dishes I had tasted, to bring a little piece of Fes back to our home in Bamberg.

Tomorrow marks the final day of my solo adventure in Fes. I plan to visit Bab Boujloud, El Glaoui Palace, and Bab Mahrouk, soaking in the last moments of this enchanting city before I head back to Germany. Perhaps I'll even stop by the blue wall bar for a final taste of Moroccan nightlife. I am already anticipating sharing all these stories with Hans, and planning our next adventure together.

Until then, Fes, shukran (thank you) for the memories.