Adventurous Escape to Samaria Gorge

Echoes of Stone and Sea: Samaria Gorge Day 2

Today was nothing short of epic. As an environmental consultant, I'm usually analyzing data and writing reports, but today, I was immersed in the raw, unfiltered beauty of nature. The Samaria Gorge has a way of making you feel small yet connected to something much larger than yourself. Hiking with friends always adds a layer of camaraderie to these adventures, and today was no exception. Plus, it's always a good reminder to disconnect and enjoy the simple pleasures – something I often preach but don't always practice back in Berlin.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Rousios, a charming spot that fueled us up for the challenges ahead. The promise of the Iron Gates and the allure of Castle Agia Roumeli kept our spirits high as we set off, our hiking boots laced tight and our backpacks ready for the trail.

The Samaria Gorge in December is a different beast altogether. The temperatures range from 10 to 17 degrees Celsius, which is perfect for hiking if you're dressed appropriately. The air was crisp, and the landscape had a stark beauty, with fewer crowds than the peak summer months. It felt like we had the gorge almost entirely to ourselves, allowing us to fully appreciate the serenity and grandeur of the surroundings.

Our first major stop was the famed Iron Gates. As we approached, the anticipation grew. The gorge narrowed dramatically, the towering rock faces squeezing the path to a mere four meters. Looking up at the cliffs soaring almost vertically to heights of up to 300 meters was awe-inspiring. It's a geological marvel, a place where you can feel the immense power of nature.


Hike through Crete's natural wonder, Samaria Gorge, and witness the awe-inspiring Iron Gates, where towering cliffs meet in a dramatic display.

The Iron Gates are more than just a narrow passage; they are a testament to the enduring strength and beauty of the natural world.

I couldn't help but think about the forces that shaped this landscape over millennia. It’s humbling to stand in such a place, realizing how fleeting our time on this planet is compared to the age of the earth. David, ever the pragmatist, was more concerned with the logistics of navigating the narrow path, but even he couldn't deny the sheer magnificence of the Iron Gates.

Continuing our trek, we made our way towards Agia Roumeli. The 16-kilometer hike tested our endurance, but the stunning views kept us motivated. The trail itself is a mix of rocky terrain and gentle slopes, with the sound of the river accompanying us for much of the way. I was glad I remembered to pack enough water, though there are natural springs along the way where you can refill your bottles.

As we neared Agia Roumeli, the imposing silhouette of the Castle Agia Roumeli, also known as Koules, came into view. Perched on a hill overlooking the village, the fortress has a rich history. Originally built by the Ottomans in the 19th century, it served as a strategic point to control the region and suppress Cretan resistance.


Discover the historical charm and breathtaking views of Castle Agia Roumeli, a hidden gem on the stunning island of Crete.

The climb up to the castle was steep, but the panoramic views from the top were well worth the effort. From our vantage point, we could see the village of Agia Roumeli, the Libyan Sea stretching out to the horizon, and the rugged landscape of the Samaria Gorge behind us. It was easy to imagine the soldiers stationed here, keeping watch over the coastline and the gorge, a silent sentinel against the backdrop of the Cretan wilderness.

Exploring the castle ruins, I couldn't help but reflect on the layers of history embedded in this landscape. From the ancient Venetians to the Ottoman Empire, Crete has been a crossroads of cultures and a battleground for empires. Each civilization has left its mark, and the Castle Agia Roumeli stands as a reminder of the island's complex past.

After soaking in the history and the views, we descended back to Agia Roumeli, our stomachs rumbling. We decided to have a late lunch at Taverna Tarra, a local favorite known for its traditional Greek cuisine and warm hospitality. After an 18km hike, we were ready for a culinary experience. The friendly staff welcomed us, and we settled in for a feast of local delicacies.


Experience authentic Greek cuisine at Taverna Tarra in Agia Roumeli – where flavor meets tradition amidst stunning natural beauty.

We started with a selection of mezes, including dolma and kefte, savoring the flavors of Crete. For the main course, I opted for the moussaka, a classic Greek dish of layered eggplant, potatoes, and meat sauce topped with a creamy béchamel. It was rich, flavorful, and the perfect reward after a long day of hiking. David, ever the carnivore, went for the grilled lamb, which was cooked to perfection and melt-in-your-mouth tender.

As we ate, we reminisced about our adventures in Berlin, the sustainability conferences we attended, and the urban gardening projects we were involved in. It's funny how travel can bring you closer to your roots, reminding you of what truly matters. We also chatted about our plans for tomorrow, which include exploring Kormokopou Cave and canyon Eligia.

Before heading back to our campsite, we took a stroll through the traditional market in Agia Roumeli. While not as large as the markets in Chania or Heraklion, it offered a glimpse into local life. We browsed the stalls, admiring the handmade crafts and sampling local products. I picked up a small jar of Cretan honey, a sweet reminder of our time on the island.


Discover the vibrant Traditional Market in Theriso, where local culture, unique gifts, and delicious cuisine come together in a delightful shopping experience.

The markets in Crete are vibrant hubs of activity, offering everything from fresh produce to artisanal goods. They're a great place to immerse yourself in the local culture, interact with vendors, and discover unique souvenirs. While the market in Agia Roumeli was small, it had a charm of its own, reflecting the laid-back atmosphere of the village.

As the sun began to set, we made our way back to our campsite, our bodies tired but our spirits high. Today had been a day of awe-inspiring beauty, historical discovery, and culinary delights. The Samaria Gorge had challenged us, rewarded us, and left us with memories that will last a lifetime.

Back at camp, as I sipped a cup of herbal tea under the starlit sky, I couldn't help but feel grateful for this experience. Traveling with friends, disconnecting from the digital world, and immersing myself in nature – these are the moments that make life truly rich. And as I drifted off to sleep, I knew that tomorrow would bring new adventures and new discoveries in this magical corner of Crete.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore Kormokopou Cave and the Eligia canyon, and perhaps even sneak in a visit to the Raki Bar for a taste of local spirits. Until then, goodnight from Samaria Gorge!