Exploring the Geothermal Marvels of Kerlingarfjöll

Whispers of Water and Stone

Today was a day of contrasts, a dance between the ethereal beauty of cascading waters and the stark, silent secrets held within the earth. Jean-Pierre and I set out with a sense of anticipation, eager to explore more of Iceland's hidden gems. It’s funny, isn’t it? How a place so seemingly barren can hold so much life, so much history, just beneath the surface. We were ready to delve deeper, both literally and figuratively, into the heart of this volcanic island.

Our first stop was the mesmerizing Hraunfossar Waterfall. The name translates to 'Lava Falls' , and it's an apt description. Unlike the thunderous waterfalls I'm used to seeing, like some of those back in Massachusetts, Hraunfossar is a gentle giant, a series of rivulets that seem to magically emerge from the Hallmundarhraun lava field. The water isn't falling from a great height but rather seeping out from under the lava rocks, creating a wide, breathtaking curtain of turquoise.


Discover the ethereal beauty of Hraunfossar Waterfall, where cascading waters and stunning landscapes create Iceland's hidden gem.
The autumn colors surrounding the falls were simply stunning. The vibrant reds and oranges of the vegetation created a striking contrast against the blue-green water and the dark lava rocks. I couldn't help but think of the paintings I used to admire at the Musée des Beaux-Arts in Lyon; nature here was creating its own masterpiece, a symphony of color and light that no artist could ever truly replicate. Jean-Pierre, ever the patient one, snapped countless photos as I wandered along the well-maintained trails, trying to capture the essence of this magical place.

We learned that the water originates from springs and groundwater streams, weaving through the ancient lava fields before surfacing at Hraunfossar. This gives the water its unique turquoise color, a hue that seems almost unreal. The falls cascade into the Hvítá River, adding to the overall charm of the site.

Just a short walk from Hraunfossar is Barnafoss, or 'Children's Falls'. This waterfall has a much different character. It surges down a narrow, rocky valley with incredible power. The contrast between the gentle Hraunfossar and the forceful Barnafoss is striking, a testament to the diverse beauty of Iceland's landscapes.

The legend of Barnafoss is quite tragic. It is said that two children fell to their deaths while trying to cross a natural stone bridge over the falls. In her grief, their mother cursed the bridge, and it was later destroyed. It's a somber tale, one that reminds you of the power and unpredictability of nature. Standing there, listening to the roar of the water, I couldn't help but feel a sense of melancholy, a connection to the past and the stories that are woven into the very fabric of this land.

The earth has music for those who listen.

After immersing ourselves in the beauty and history of the waterfalls, we drove towards Eyvindarhellir Cave. The drive itself was an adventure, the landscape transforming into a rugged expanse of lava fields and distant mountains. As we got closer, the wind picked up, and the sky turned a dramatic shade of gray, adding to the sense of mystery and intrigue. I was glad I'd packed my warmest scarf; the weather in Iceland can change in an instant.


Explore the enchanting Eyvindarhellir Cave, a natural preserve showcasing Iceland's stunning geological wonders and rich folklore.
Eyvindarhellir Cave is located in the Hveravellir area. It’s not a grand, imposing cavern but rather a low and spacious lava cave with easy access. The cave is named after Fjalla-Eyvindur, a famous Icelandic outlaw who used it as a hideout in the 18th century. Just imagining him and his wife Halla seeking refuge in this very spot gave me chills.

The entrance to the cave is unassuming, just a hole in the ground. But once inside, the space opens up, revealing a network of passages and chambers. We explored the cave with our flashlights, marveling at the unique rock formations and the play of light and shadow. It was cool and damp inside, the air thick with the scent of earth and stone.

I tried to imagine what it must have been like for Eyvindur and Halla, living in this cave, isolated from the rest of the world. They were resourceful and resilient, surviving in a harsh environment against all odds. Their story is a testament to the human spirit, the ability to adapt and endure even in the most challenging circumstances. I felt a strange connection to them, a sense of shared humanity that transcended time and circumstance.

As we emerged from the cave, the wind had died down, and the sky was beginning to clear. The setting sun cast a golden light over the landscape, painting the lava fields in hues of orange and pink. It was a breathtaking sight, a reminder of the raw, untamed beauty of Iceland. We took a moment to simply stand there, soaking it all in, before heading back to Ásgarður for another cozy dinner.


Experience breathtaking landscapes and cozy accommodations at Ásgarður in Kerlingarfjöll – an unforgettable Icelandic getaway.
Before heading back to our campsite, we made a quick stop at the Gullfoss Store. It's located near the Gullfoss waterfall, which we didn't visit today, but the store is worth a visit in its own right. It’s filled with Icelandic crafts, woolens, and souvenirs. I picked up a small, hand-carved puffin as a memento of our trip, and Jean-Pierre bought a warm, woolen hat to protect him from the Icelandic winds. The staff were incredibly friendly and helpful, offering tips and insights about the local area.


Discover unique Icelandic souvenirs at Gullfoss Store, located near the majestic Gullfoss waterfall, perfect for capturing memories of your journey.
Back at Ásgarður, we enjoyed another hearty meal. The familiar comfort of the dining area was welcoming after a day of exploration. We chatted with some of the other travelers, sharing stories and experiences. It's one of the things I love most about traveling – the opportunity to connect with people from all walks of life, to learn from their perspectives, and to forge new friendships.

As I sit here now, writing in my travel journal, I can't help but feel a sense of gratitude for this incredible journey. Iceland has a way of getting under your skin, of captivating your senses and stirring your soul. It's a land of contrasts, of fire and ice, of light and darkness. And it's a place that I know I will never forget.

Tomorrow, we're heading to Thingvellir National Park and Öxarárfoss [Itinerary of Tomorrow]. I'm excited to explore more of Iceland's natural wonders, to delve deeper into its history and culture, and to continue this incredible adventure with my favorite travel companion. Good night from Kerlingarfjöll!

Thinking about our next stop, I realize I need to find a portable phone charger, and maybe an extra memory card for the camera. I knew I was forgetting something!