Romantic Italian Escape: Discovering Lucca's Charm

Echoes of Emperors and Angels

Today in Lucca was a journey through time, a day where the ancient and the divine intertwined with the simple pleasures of Italian gastronomy. Maximilian and I explored the heart of this charming city, tracing the footsteps of Roman gladiators and Renaissance artists, all while savoring the tastes of Tuscany. It was a day of contrasts, where the echoes of the past resonated in the vibrant present.

Our day began with a delightful breakfast at Ristorante DES ARTS. The aroma of freshly baked bread and strong Italian coffee filled the air, setting the perfect tone for our explorations. Maximilian, ever the early bird, was already researching the history of our first destination: Piazza dell'Anfiteatro. I chose a table with a view of the street, watching Lucca slowly awaken. The ambiance was warm and inviting, and the staff were incredibly friendly, making us feel right at home. I opted for a simple yet satisfying breakfast of a cappuccino and a pastry, while Maximilian, with his German practicality, went for a more substantial meal of eggs and bacon.

Fueled and ready, we set out to explore Piazza dell'Anfiteatro. Just a short walk from our hotel, Albergo San Martino, the piazza is an architectural marvel. As we entered through one of the four gateways, I was immediately struck by the unique elliptical shape of the plaza. It's hard to believe that this bustling marketplace was once a Roman amphitheater, built in the 1st century AD. Maximilian, with his keen eye for detail, pointed out how the medieval houses were constructed directly on the lines of the old amphitheater, incorporating parts of the original structure.


Discover the charm of Piazza dell'Anfiteatro, a historical landmark in Lucca, where ancient architecture meets vibrant local culture and cuisine.

The Piazza dell'Anfiteatro is steeped in history. Emperor Claudius initiated the construction of the amphitheater, and it was completed during the Flavian period. In its heyday, the amphitheater could hold nearly 10,000 spectators, who gathered to watch gladiatorial contests and public spectacles. During the Gothic Wars, the amphitheater was fortified and later transformed into houses and even a prison. It wasn't until the 19th century that architect Lorenzo Nottolini restored the plaza to its current form.

Walking through the Piazza dell'Anfiteatro is like stepping back in time, feeling the pulse of ancient Rome beneath the vibrant rhythm of modern Lucca.

Today, the piazza is a lively hub filled with restaurants, shops, and cafes. We strolled around, soaking in the atmosphere and imagining what it must have been like to witness the gladiators battling for their lives. The sun was warm, and the air was filled with the sounds of laughter and chatter. We paused to admire a massive bronze sculpture of a human head by Polish artist Igor Mitoraj, which has become a popular spot for tourists to take selfies.

After exploring the piazza, we made our way to the Cattedrale di San Zeno, also known as the Duomo di Lucca. This cathedral is the main religious building in Lucca and the seat of the Archbishop of Lucca. According to the tradition the cathedral was initially dedicated to San Martino, but was later dedicated to San Zeno during the Lombard domination. The facade is striking, with three orders of loggias and a portico added between 1379 and 1449. In 1504, Andrea della Robbia was commissioned to decorate the archivolt and the lunette above the central door, adding a touch of Renaissance beauty to the Romanesque structure.


Explore the architectural beauty and historical significance of Cattedrale di San Zeno in Pistoia, a must-see landmark for any traveler.

Inside, the cathedral is a treasure trove of art and history. Maximilian and I spent a long time admiring the various chapels and artworks. The atmosphere was serene and contemplative, a stark contrast to the bustling piazza we had just left. We lit candles for our family and said a silent prayer for continued health and happiness.

For lunch, we chose Osteria Tosca, a charming restaurant near the Puccini museum. Situated in a quiet square away from the crowded streets, it offered a welcome respite. The menu featured traditional Luccan dishes, and we were eager to try some local specialties. Maximilian opted for Tordelli lucchesi al ragù, a filled fresh pasta with meat and ragu. I decided on the Taglioni al ragù di branzino e salsa di basilico, tagliolini with seabass ragu and basil sauce. Both dishes were delicious, bursting with fresh flavors and cooked to perfection. We shared a bottle of local wine, savoring each sip as we discussed our morning adventures.


Discover Osteria Tosca in Lucca: Authentic Italian flavors with fresh seafood and local wines await you in this charming eatery.

As the afternoon waned, we sought out a place to unwind and enjoy a refreshing drink. Lebowski - Cocktail Bar beckoned with its promise of exquisite cocktails and a vibrant atmosphere. The bar was cozy and inviting, with a touch of quirky charm. Maximilian, always the adventurous one, ordered a unique concoction with a local spirit, while I played it safe with a classic Aperol Spritz. We chatted with the friendly bartender, who gave us some recommendations for dinner.


Discover the lively spirit of Lucca at Lebowski - Cocktail Bar, where exquisite cocktails and a vibrant atmosphere await you.

For dinner, we decided to try Ristorante Celide, known for its seafood cuisine. Located a short distance from the city walls, it offered a sophisticated dining experience. We started with a seafood tartare, followed by grilled sea bass and squid. The fish was incredibly fresh, and the dishes were prepared with a delicate touch that allowed the natural flavors to shine through. The service was impeccable, and the ambiance was modern and elegant.


Discover the essence of coastal cuisine at Ristorante Celide in Lucca – where fresh seafood meets authentic Italian hospitality.

As we walked back to our hotel, hand in hand, I reflected on the day's adventures. Lucca had captivated us with its blend of history, culture, and gastronomy. From the ancient echoes of Piazza dell'Anfiteatro to the spiritual serenity of Cattedrale di San Zeno, every moment had been a delight. The delicious meals we shared at Ristorante DES ARTS, Osteria Tosca, and Ristorante Celide had only enhanced our experience.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit the Basilica di San Frediano and the Palazzo Ducale di Lucca [if last day of trip, merge in “Trip end”]. I'm particularly excited to see the Palazzo Ducale, as I've read about its rich history and beautiful architecture. We'll also be having breakfast at Osteria Parlascio Lucca, lunch at Ristorante Tomei, and dinner at Antica Locanda dell'Angelo. Maximilian is also keen on visiting Genesi Lucca, a local shop, to pick up some souvenirs [if last day of trip, merge in “Trip end”].

As I write this, I'm filled with a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to explore such a beautiful and fascinating city with my beloved Maximilian. Each day in Lucca brings new discoveries and unforgettable memories. I can't wait to see what tomorrow holds! Perhaps I'll even remember to buy that umbrella I forgot to pack!

The city is alive with events this summer, too. While we didn't make it to the Lucca Jazz Donna festival, which runs through August and September, we did hear some wonderful music drifting from open doorways as we strolled through the streets. We also learned that Paula Hare of Milwaukee is hosting her 3rd annual Hat Making event today. Maybe next time we are in Lucca we will check it out!

It's funny, isn't it? How places can hold so much history, so much life, within their walls. Cholula, my hometown, has the Great Pyramid, a testament to ancient civilizations. And here in Lucca, the Piazza dell'Anfiteatro whispers tales of Roman emperors and gladiators. It makes me feel connected to something bigger, something timeless. I wonder what Elena will think of all this when she's old enough to travel with us. I can already imagine her running through the Piazza, her laughter echoing through the ancient stones.

For now, though, it's time to rest. Tomorrow is another day, another chapter in our Luccan adventure. Goodnight, dear readers, and sweet dreams of Italy.