Romantic Italian Escape: Discovering Lucca's Charm

A Day Amidst History and Art

Today was a beautiful blend of spiritual reflection and historical exploration here in Lucca. Maximilian and I set out to discover more of this charming city, and it certainly didn't disappoint. From the serene Basilica di San Frediano to the grandeur of a Ducal Palace, Lucca continues to reveal its captivating layers.

Our day began with a delightful breakfast at Osteria Parlascio Lucca. The aroma of freshly baked bread and strong Italian coffee filled the air, setting a cheerful tone for our adventures. I opted for a simple yet satisfying pastry, while Maximilian enjoyed a hearty frittata. Energized, we were ready to immerse ourselves in Lucca's rich heritage.

Basilica di San Frediano: A Spiritual Awakening

Our first stop was the Basilica di San Frediano, one of the oldest churches in Lucca. As we approached, the stunning gold Byzantine mosaic on the façade immediately caught my eye. It depicted the Ascension of Christ, with the twelve apostles below, a truly awe-inspiring sight. Stepping inside, I felt an immediate sense of peace and reverence. The interior, with its large room and two separated aisles held up by columns with Roman and Romanesque capitals, was simply breathtaking. Maximilian, ever the tech enthusiast, was fascinated by the architectural details, while I was drawn to the spiritual ambiance. We learned that the basilica was built on top of a 6th-century church and is dedicated to Saint Frediano.


Explore the Basilica di San Frediano in Lucca, a stunning Romanesque church known for its magnificent mosaic and serene atmosphere.

One of the highlights inside the basilica was the baptismal font, adorned with scenes from the life of Moses. The intricate carvings told stories of faith and resilience, reminding me of the importance of cherishing our own cultural and spiritual roots. We also visited the chapel of Santa Zita, where her mummified body is displayed in a glass case. It was a rather surreal experience, but also a testament to the enduring faith of the people of Lucca. The basilica was truly a place where art, history, and spirituality converged, offering a profound and enriching experience. I found myself reflecting on my own journey, the path that led me from Cholula, Mexico, to this ancient and beautiful city. It's moments like these that make travel so meaningful. The Basilica is free to enter, which is wonderful.

Traveling allows you to discover not only new places but also new aspects of yourself.

Palazzo Ducale: A Glimpse into Lucca's Political Heart

Next, we made our way to the Palazzo Ducale, a palace with a rich and complex history. Located in the heart of Lucca, the Palazzo Ducale stands as a testament to Lucca's layered history, reflecting centuries of political shifts and architectural refinements. The palace occupies the former site of the Fortezza Augustan, once home to the feared condottiero Castruccio Castracani. His grand residence was demolished in 1370 following a popular uprising. The structure was later repurposed as a fortified residence by Paolo Guinigi in 1401, but his fall in 1429 led to another partial dismantling. Eventually, the remains were transformed into the Palazzo Pubblico, serving as Lucca's governmental headquarters.


Explore the rich history and architectural beauty of Palazzo Ducale di Lucca, a must-visit landmark in the heart of Italy's enchanting Lucca.

The palace saw another chapter of aristocratic splendor when Elisa Baciocchi, Napoleon's sister, took residence here. Following the Unification of Italy in 1861, it passed into the hands of the province of Lucca. The palace's present-day grandeur is largely attributed to Bartolomeo Ammannati, who redesigned its façade in 1578. The right-wing, a later addition by Francesco Pini in 1728, reflects the influence of Filippo Juvarra. In the 19th century, Lorenzo Nottolini, the ducal architect, further enriched the interiors, leaving behind a monumental staircase leading to a grand gallery of statues.

As we wandered through the palace, Maximilian was particularly interested in the architectural evolution of the building, while I was captivated by the stories of the powerful figures who had once resided within its walls. The palace includes a central court, which remains unfinished but boasts a double portico and a central statue of the Lucchese lawyer Francesco Carrara, sculpted by Augusto Passaglia. The Cortile degli Svizzeri, another incomplete courtyard, references the Swiss Guard who once served the Republic of Lucca and is distinguished by Ammannati's rusticated stonework. Inside, the Hall of the General Council of the Republic preserves a Flemish painting and a fresco symbolizing Lucchese's freedom. The Ammannati Loggia, perched above the Loggia delle Guardie, showcases grotesque decorations and stucco work. The Staffieri Hall dazzles with frescoes by Luigi Ademollo. Until 1977, the palace housed the National Gallery of Lucca.

Culinary Interlude

For lunch, we savored a delightful meal at Ristorante Tomei. The restaurant had a cozy atmosphere, and the menu featured a range of traditional Tuscan dishes. I opted for the Pappa al Pomodoro, a hearty bread and tomato soup, while Maximilian chose the Eliche con Ragù di Cervo, pasta with deer ragu. Each dish was a celebration of local flavors, and we thoroughly enjoyed the culinary experience.


Experience authentic Italian flavors at Ristorante Tomei in Lucca – where every dish tells a story of tradition and passion.

Shopping at Genesi Lucca

In the afternoon, we strolled through the charming streets of Lucca and stumbled upon Genesi Lucca, a shop known for its unique offerings. While I was initially drawn to a pair of comfortable Italian leather brogues at Lucca Vudor, I ended up purchasing a beautiful, handcrafted leather handbag. It was the perfect souvenir to remind me of our time in Lucca. Maximilian, meanwhile, found a stylish leather wallet that caught his eye. The shop was a treasure trove of artisanal goods, and we enjoyed supporting local craftsmanship.


Explore Genesi Lucca: Your destination for unique Italian gifts and local crafts in the heart of Lucca.

Dinner at Antica Locanda dell'Angelo: A Perfect Finale

As evening approached, we made our way to Antica Locanda dell'Angelo for dinner. This restaurant is known for its reimagined Tuscan cuisine and regional wines, served in an old-world dining room and has a rich history dating back to 1414. The ambiance was warm and inviting, and the staff were incredibly attentive. We started with an antipasto of local cheeses and cured meats, followed by a main course of grilled fish and roasted vegetables. The meal was a perfect blend of flavors and textures, a fitting end to a day of exploration and discovery. I felt a deep sense of contentment, grateful for the opportunity to share these experiences with Maximilian. The restaurant offers a mix of local and Sicilian dishes, which I found to be a delightful surprise.


Experience authentic Italian dining at Antica Locanda dell'Angelo in Lucca – where tradition meets flavor.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit the Museo Nazionale di Villa Guinigi and the Clock Tower. I am particularly excited about the Clock Tower, as I've heard it offers panoramic views of the city. Maximilian is looking forward to exploring the museum's collection of local artifacts. We might also stop by Enoteca Vanni, a local wine bar, for a relaxing evening drink.

As I reflect on today's adventures, I am reminded of the beauty and richness that travel brings into our lives. Lucca has captured my heart with its blend of history, art, and culinary delights. I am eager to see what tomorrow holds, as we continue to uncover the hidden gems of this enchanting city.

Lucca continues to surprise and enchant me. Until tomorrow!

Local Events

Today being August 10th, there's a special event called ...e lucevan le stelle which combines music and stargazing, set against the backdrop of the city walls. It's inspired by Giacomo Puccini, which is very fitting for Lucca. Also, the Singing of Trees- Timbralia Ensemble concert is underway at the Orto Botanica Lucca. Perhaps we will check it out!

And there are music festivals in Lucca this month. Lucca Jazz Donna, for over 20 years the female jazz festival, the most beautiful voices, the best musicians, for a unique event.