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Château de Portes: The Ship of the Cévennes

Explore the 'Ship of the Cévennes,' a medieval fortress with Renaissance flair, offering panoramic views and a journey through French history.

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Perched atop the Col de Portes, Château de Portes is a historic castle guarding the ancient Regordane Way since the 11th century. Nicknamed the 'Ship of the Cévennes' for its unique prow-like architecture, this fortress blends medieval and Renaissance styles, offering panoramic views and a glimpse into centuries of history.

A brief summary to Portes Castle

Local tips

  • Wear comfortable shoes, as exploring the castle grounds involves some walking, especially if you plan to explore the hiking trails.
  • Visit during the early morning or late afternoon to avoid crowds and capture the best lighting for photographs.
  • Check the local calendar for events or reenactments that may enhance your visit.
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Getting There

  • Public Transport

    From Alès, take the Line 110 bus towards Portes. The bus departs from Gare Routiere - Quai E and arrives at Place R in Portes. The journey takes approximately 1 hour and costs around €2. From the bus stop in Portes, it's a short walk to the castle. Check the bus schedule in advance as services are limited.

  • Driving

    From Alès, drive towards the village of Portes in the Cévennes National Park. Take the D907 road towards Mende. After about 15 kilometers, follow the signs for Portes, turning onto the D20 road until you reach Col de Portes. Parking is available near the castle, but it can fill up quickly during peak season. Expect to pay around €4-€6 for fuel.

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Discover more about Portes Castle

Château de Portes, a sentinel of the Cévennes, has stood overlooking the Col de Portes since the 11th century. Originally built by the Anduze family, it guarded the Regordane Way, a vital route for pilgrims and crusaders. The castle's strategic importance led to its expansion over the centuries, with the Budos family adding defensive towers in the 14th century. In the 16th century, Antoine Hercule de Budos, a vice-admiral, transformed the castle, adding the distinctive 49-degree spur resembling a ship's prow, earning it the moniker 'Ship of the Cévennes'. This unique architectural feature makes it stand out among European castles. However, the castle's history took a dramatic turn in the 20th century when extensive coal mining beneath it caused structural damage. The village of Portes was destroyed and rebuilt further away, and the castle was abandoned. In 1972, the Château de Portes Renaissance association was formed to restore the castle, and much of the interior is now open to visitors. Today, visitors can explore three floors of the castle, each featuring a large central room and smaller adjacent rooms. The castle offers stunning panoramic views of the Cévennes valleys, Mont Lozère, and the Alès plain.

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