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Makira-Ulawa
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Explore Makira-Ulawa in the Solomon Islands for rainforest, reef waters, village culture and quietly adventurous island travel.

Makira-Ulawa is one of the Solomon Islands’ more remote provinces, extending across rugged Makira, the country’s largest island, and the smaller island of Ulawa with surrounding islets and reef waters. The provincial capital, Kirakira, lies on Makira’s north coast and serves as the main gateway for visitors. Beyond the airstrip and government centre, settlement is dispersed along a deeply indented coastline where forested slopes descend towards beaches, bays, mangroves and coral reefs.
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Makira’s interior is dominated by dense tropical rainforest and steep terrain. This is a destination for visitors interested in birdwatching, village life, coastal travel and low-impact exploration rather than a conventional resort holiday. Inland journeys can be physically demanding and require local arrangements, while coastal communities are often best reached by boat. Ulawa offers a different island scale, with village communities, productive gardens and reef environments that are closely tied to daily life.
The province retains strong customary authority and community connections. Land and marine areas are generally managed through local ownership systems, so permission and a locally arranged guide are important when visiting villages, forest areas, cultural sites or fishing grounds. Solomons Pijin is widely useful, while English is the official language; many communities also speak their own local languages. Visitors should expect a slower pace, limited services and a travel experience shaped more by relationships than by fixed tourism infrastructure.
Makira-Ulawa’s history includes long-established Oceanic settlement, encounters with European navigators, missionary activity, labour migration and the upheavals of the Pacific War. Traces of these influences sit alongside living traditions in carving, weaving, gardening, fishing, customary exchange, church life and oral history. The province’s natural significance is equally important: its forests support distinctive island wildlife, and its coastal waters provide opportunities for snorkelling, kayaking, fishing and reef observation when conditions permit.
Kirakira is the practical base for arranging local transport, supplies and introductions, but it should not be regarded as a fully serviced tourist town. Travellers who plan carefully, carry essential medicines and allow flexibility for weather and transport will be better prepared. Makira-Ulawa rewards patient exploration, especially when visits are organised with provincial contacts, community leaders, accommodation providers or experienced local guides.

When is the best time to visit Makira-Ulawa?

Best: October–December · 30–31°C
Average daytime high and rainfall by month
MonthHigh (°C)Rainfall (mm)
January30250
February30240
March30230
April30220
May30210
June30200
July30190
August30180
September30170
October (best)30160
November (best)31150
December (best)31140

Getting to and around Makira-Ulawa

How to get there

Most visitors reach Makira-Ulawa through Honiara, the national capital on Guadalcanal and outside the province. From Honiara, domestic air services may connect with Kirakira Airport on Makira, but schedules and operating arrangements can change, so confirm details directly before departure and allow contingency time. Sea travel may also be possible through inter-island services or privately arranged boats, although comfort, safety equipment and timetables vary. Kirakira is the principal arrival point; reaching Ulawa or smaller coastal communities normally requires separate local arrangements.

Transportation

Transport within Makira-Ulawa is limited. Kirakira and nearby settlements are linked by roads of varying quality, while many coastal villages and islands depend on outboard boats. A locally arranged vehicle and driver is more practical than relying on informal public transport for rural travel. Boat journeys should be undertaken with experienced local operators, suitable flotation equipment and attention to tides and weather. Walking is useful around settlements and on established local tracks, but rainforest routes may be steep, muddy and unmarked. Do not assume that fuel, replacement parts or regular taxis will be available.

Best attractions in Makira-Ulawa

Makira-Ulawa’s attractions are primarily natural and community-based. Around Kirakira, visitors can arrange coastal excursions, village visits and walks into forested country, while the island’s bays, beaches and reefs provide opportunities for swimming, snorkelling, kayaking and fishing when local conditions are suitable. Makira’s interior is of particular interest to birdwatchers and naturalists because its extensive rainforest supports distinctive island wildlife, although access generally requires a guide, permission and reasonable fitness. Ulawa offers a more intimate island setting, with reef waters, village communities and everyday coastal life rather than a developed resort strip. The province also has church buildings, local cultural practices, traditional food preparation, weaving, carving and oral histories that are best experienced through community introductions. Travellers should expect modest infrastructure: attractions are rarely signposted or packaged, and transport may be part of the adventure. Weather, tides and customary arrangements can shape an itinerary more than a published timetable, so flexible planning is essential.

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Best landmarks in Makira-Ulawa

Kirakira’s role as the provincial capital and principal settlement makes its waterfront, airfield area, government buildings and surrounding coastal landscape useful orientation points, although they are not monumental landmarks in the conventional sense. The most significant physical feature of Makira-Ulawa is Makira itself: a mountainous, heavily forested island whose steep interior and deeply indented coastline define both its scenery and its transport challenges. Coastal bays and reef-fringed waters around Makira and Ulawa are important geographical landmarks as well as working environments for fishing and travel. Village churches and locally established community spaces reflect the influence of Christian missions and later provincial life, while gardens, coconut groves and customary coastal areas reveal how people continue to use the land. Unlike regions built around castles, cathedrals or grand civic architecture, Makira-Ulawa’s sense of place lies in the relationship between rainforest, settlement, sea routes and customary territory. Access to particular sites should always be arranged with local permission rather than assumed from a map.

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Best bars in Makira-Ulawa

Makira-Ulawa does not have a substantial nightclub scene. Evening life centres on family and community gatherings, church-related activities, small local shops, guesthouse or hotel spaces and occasional music or social events in Kirakira. In villages, the pace is generally quiet after dark, and entertainment depends on local invitations rather than a published programme. Visitors should not assume that alcohol is served, and should follow community expectations concerning drinking, dress and behaviour. Honiara, outside the province, offers the Solomon Islands’ broadest range of bars and organised nightlife, but Makira-Ulawa’s evening character is more often defined by conversation, shared food, music and the sounds of the coast. Bring a torch and arrange transport in advance if returning after dark, since street lighting and late-night vehicles are limited.

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Best shops in Makira-Ulawa

Shopping in Makira-Ulawa is practical and small-scale, with the greatest choice found in Kirakira. Local shops may carry basic food, household goods, clothing and fuel-related supplies, but stock can be irregular and imported products are limited. Travellers may encounter locally made baskets, woven items, carvings or other handicrafts through community contacts, accommodation providers or village visits; buying directly and agreeing prices respectfully supports makers more effectively than treating crafts as anonymous souvenirs. Fresh produce, coconuts, fish and garden foods are part of local exchange, though availability depends on season, weather and transport. There are no extensive malls or established luxury-shopping districts, and visitors should purchase specialist medicines, batteries, toiletries and equipment before arriving. Cash is essential, particularly when buying crafts, food or locally arranged services outside the provincial centre.

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Makira-Ulawa essentials

Currency and Payment
The currency is the Solomon Islands dollar, abbreviated SBD. Cash is the dependable form of payment in Makira-Ulawa, particularly outside Kirakira, and visitors should obtain sufficient money before leaving Honiara or another well-serviced centre. Card acceptance is limited and electronic connectivity may be unreliable; there may be no convenient ATM access for travellers. Keep notes securely and carry smaller denominations where possible, while confirming the price and payment method for accommodation, guiding, boats and village activities in advance.
Safety
The principal visitor concerns are remoteness, transport reliability, tropical weather, limited medical facilities and outdoor hazards rather than conventional sightseeing risks. Protect valuables discreetly, use trusted local arrangements and avoid walking alone at night in unfamiliar areas. On boats, check that life jackets are available and postpone travel during rough conditions. Rain can make roads and tracks difficult, while heat, insects, sun exposure, contaminated water and minor injuries can become serious when help is distant. Comprehensive travel insurance, medical supplies and evacuation cover are advisable.
Emergency Situations
Emergency arrangements in Makira-Ulawa are constrained by distance and communications. For urgent incidents, use the Solomon Islands emergency arrangements where a connection is available, commonly reached through 999, and ask local hosts or authorities to contact the appropriate police, medical or fire service. Kirakira has the province’s main local administrative and health services, but serious cases may require transfer to Honiara. Carry a charged phone, keep accommodation and local contact details written down, and agree beforehand how a boat or vehicle evacuation would be organised.
Do's and Don'ts
Dress modestly in villages and follow the guidance of local hosts, especially near churches and customary gatherings. Ask before photographing people, homes, ceremonies, boats, gardens or culturally significant places. Do not enter customary land, collect objects, fish or walk through village areas without permission. Remove footwear when requested, greet people respectfully and avoid rushing conversations or negotiations. Tipping is not a universal obligation, but agreed fees and contributions should be paid promptly. Never leave rubbish on beaches, reefs or forest tracks, and do not remove shells, coral or wildlife.
Local Tips
Use Kirakira as a practical staging point rather than trying to cover the province quickly. Local introductions are especially valuable for arranging guides, village visits, forest access and boat transport. Learn a few polite expressions in Solomon Pijin, although English is useful in official settings and local languages vary between communities. Fresh food may be seasonal and supplies can be interrupted, so carry suitable snacks without assuming that imported products will be available. Ask about customary observances and local sea conditions before planning activities around a particular community.
Eve, your Evendo local guide

From Eve

Local phrases worth knowing

You don't need to get them perfect. A few words go a long way, and locals appreciate the effort.

6 phrase groups · English, local and pronunciation

Basics
EnglishLocalSay it
HelloKia ora[kee-ah or-ah]
GoodbyeSokuru[soh-koo-roo]
YesAeo[ah-eh-oh]
NoAoka[ah-oh-kah]
Please/You’re welcomeTaki[tah-kee]
Thank youTausi[tah-oo-see]
Excuse me/SorryTasi[tah-see]
How are you?Ono mai?[oh-no my?]
Fine. And you?Mi fain. Ogo?[mee fine. oh-go?]
Do you speak English?Ogo i tok Pisin?[oh-go ee tok pee-seen?]
I don't understandMi no save[mee noh sah-veh]
Eating & Drinking
EnglishLocalSay it
I'd like to see the menu, pleaseMi laik lukim menu, taki[mee like loo-keem meh-noo, tah-kee]
I don't eat meatMi no kakae mit[mee noh kah-kai meet]
Cheers!Taki![tah-kee!]
I would like to pay, pleaseMi laik pai, taki[mee like pie, tah-kee]
Emergencies
EnglishLocalSay it
Help!Help![Help!]
Go away!Go awei![go ah-way!]
Call the Police!Kol Polisi![kol poh-lee-see!]
Call a doctor!Kol doktah![kol dok-tah!]
I'm lostMi los[mee loss]
I'm illMi sik[mee seek]
Shopping
EnglishLocalSay it
I'd like to buy...Mi laik buy...[mee like bye...]
I'm just lookingMi so luk[mee so loo-k]
How much is it?Hao mangi?[how man-gee?]
That's too expensiveDat i tu ekspensiv[dat ee too eks-pen-siv]
Can you lower the price?Ogo i save lesim praes?[oh-go ee sah-veh leh-sim price?]
Time & Numbers
EnglishLocalSay it
What time is it?Hao taem i?[how time ee?]
It's one o'clockI wan o'klok[ee wan oh-clock]
Half past (10)Half pas (10)[half pahs (10)]
MorningMornin[mor-ning]
AfternoonAftanoon[af-ta-noon]
EveningIvening[ee-ven-ing]
YesterdayYestedei[yes-teh-day]
TodayTudei[too-day]
TomorrowTumoro[too-mo-ro]
1Wan[wan]
2Tu[too]
3Tri[tree]
4Foa[foe-ah]
5Faiv[five]
6Siks[siks]
7Sev[sev]
8Eit[eight]
9Nain[nine]
10Ten[ten]
Transport & Directions
EnglishLocalSay it
Where's a/the...?Wea a/da...?[we-ah ah/dah...?]
What's the address?Hao i adres?[how ee ah-dress?]
Can you show me (on the map)?Ogo i save soem mi (long map)?[oh-go ee sah-veh so-em mee (long map)?]
When's the next (bus)?Hao taem i next (bus)?[how time ee next (bus)?]
A ticket (to ....)Wan tikit (fo....)[wan tee-kit (fo....)]

History of Makira-Ulawa

Ancient Oceanic Settlement

Makira and Ulawa were settled within the wider movement of Austronesian-speaking peoples across the southwest Pacific. Over many centuries, communities developed systems of gardening, fishing, forest use, exchange and customary authority suited to steep volcanic terrain, smaller islands and reef-lined coasts. Archaeological knowledge across the Solomon Islands indicates a long sequence of human occupation, while oral traditions remain particularly important for understanding local histories. The province’s villages, languages and land relationships are therefore not recent developments but part of an extensive island heritage.

European Voyages in the Sixteenth Century

Spanish expeditions reached the Solomon Islands in the sixteenth century, and the islands were subsequently represented on European charts under the Solomon name. These voyages did not create a lasting colonial administration in Makira-Ulawa, but they marked the beginning of intermittent European knowledge of the archipelago. For island communities, early encounters formed only one episode in much longer local histories. Later European accounts often misunderstood or simplified the political and cultural relationships that governed Makira and its neighbouring islands.

Missionary Expansion and Colonial Rule

Christian missionaries became increasingly active in the Solomon Islands during the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, working alongside the expanding British colonial administration. On Makira and Ulawa, mission stations, schools and churches contributed to major changes in education, religious practice and local leadership, although conversion and colonial authority were gradual and uneven. Customary structures did not disappear; instead, village life came to combine inherited obligations with church institutions, introduced forms of education and the administrative systems of the British Solomon Islands Protectorate.

Labour Migration and the Copra Economy

During the colonial period, Solomon Islanders were recruited for work on plantations and other enterprises elsewhere in the archipelago and across the western Pacific. Makira-Ulawa communities were part of these wider labour networks, which brought new experiences, Christian influences, languages and connections between islands. Copra, produced from dried coconut meat, became an important commercial product, while subsistence gardening, fishing and local exchange continued to underpin household life. The economic legacy can still be seen in coconut plantings, coastal trading patterns and the province’s dependence on maritime links.

The Pacific War and the Road to Independence

The Solomon Islands became a major theatre of the Pacific War after Japanese expansion into the region in 1942. The best-known fighting occurred elsewhere in the archipelago, but Makira and surrounding islands were drawn into wartime logistics, coastal surveillance and military movement. The conflict accelerated infrastructure development and brought intense contact with Allied forces. After the war, political change gathered pace, leading to internal self-government and independence for the Solomon Islands in 1978. Makira-Ulawa has since developed as a province within the independent state.

Provincial Life in the Contemporary Solomon Islands

Modern Makira-Ulawa combines elected provincial administration with customary landholding, church networks and village-based social organisation. Kirakira functions as the provincial centre, while most communities remain dependent on gardens, fishing, small-scale commerce and connections by road or boat. Development has been constrained by the province’s remoteness and difficult terrain, but that same geography has helped preserve extensive forest and marine environments. Contemporary tourism is consequently small in scale and is most effective when it supports local hosts, guides and community priorities.

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