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St Cwyfan's Church: The Enchanting Church in the Sea on Anglesey

A serene 12th-century medieval church perched on a tidal island, blending history, sea, and Welsh heritage in a stunning coastal setting.

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St Cwyfan's Church, known as the Church in the Sea, is a charming medieval chapel perched on the tiny tidal island of Cribinau off Anglesey’s coast. Dating back to the 12th century, this whitewashed church sits encircled by a protective seawall, accessible via a causeway at low tide. It tells a story of coastal erosion, historic Welsh-English tensions, and dedicated restoration efforts, making it a unique and evocative landmark steeped in history and natural beauty.

A brief summary to Eglwys Cwyfan

  • Ty Croes, Ty Croes, GB
  • Visit website
  • Duration: 0.5 to 2 hours
  • Free
  • Environment icon Outdoor
  • Mobile reception: 4 out of 5

Local tips

  • Visit at low tide to access the island via the causeway and fully experience the church up close.
  • Bring sturdy footwear as the causeway can be slippery and uneven, especially near the water.
  • Respect the church’s quiet atmosphere; it is a place of historic reverence and occasional worship.
  • Explore the surrounding coastal views and nearby bays for excellent photo opportunities.
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Getting There

  • Car

    Driving from Holyhead, allow 25 to 35 minutes to reach Ty Croes village near St Cwyfan’s Church. Parking is limited near the causeway; expect a short walk over uneven terrain to the church. No parking directly on the island.

  • Public Bus

    Take local bus services from Holyhead or Llangefni to Ty Croes, with a journey time of approximately 40 to 60 minutes depending on connections. From the village, it is a 10 to 15-minute walk to the causeway. Bus frequency may be limited on weekends.

  • Walking

    For active visitors, a scenic 2 to 3-hour walk along coastal paths from nearby villages offers a rewarding approach. Terrain includes uneven paths and some elevation changes; suitable for experienced walkers.

Eglwys Cwyfan location weather suitability

  • Weather icon Any Weather
  • Weather icon Clear Skies
  • Weather icon Windy Conditions
  • Weather icon Mild Temperatures
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Origins and Early History of St Cwyfan's Church

St Cwyfan's Church traces its origins to the 12th century, though there may have been a place of worship on the site since the 7th century. Dedicated to Saint Kevin (St Cwyfan), an Irish saint who founded a monastery at Glendalough, the church originally stood at the tip of a peninsula between two bays, Porth Cwyfan and Porth China. The earliest surviving fabric includes a portion of the south wall around the door from the 12th century, while much of the rest was rebuilt in the 14th century. The church was a simple rural building with a rectangular nave, later extended in length during medieval renovations.

Transformation into a Tidal Island and Architectural Evolution

Over centuries, relentless coastal erosion severed the peninsula, turning the church’s site into the tiny tidal island of Cribinau. A causeway was constructed to maintain access for parishioners, though high tides sometimes cut off entry, necessitating occasional services held at a nearby house, Plas Llangwyfan. In the early 16th century, a northern aisle was added, accessed through an arcade of three semicircular arches. However, this aisle was demolished in the early 19th century due to advancing erosion. The infilled arches remain visible in the north wall, a testament to the church’s changing form. The church’s walls were limewashed white during a 2006 refurbishment, contrasting with the former grey appearance familiar to locals.

Historic Controversy and Cultural Significance

St Cwyfan's Church was central to a notable 18th-century controversy reflecting linguistic and cultural tensions in Wales. In 1766, the Bishop of Bangor appointed Dr Thomas Bowles, an English-speaking priest who spoke no Welsh, to serve the predominantly Welsh-speaking parish of Trefdraeth, which included St Cwyfan’s. With only five of 500 parishioners understanding English, the congregation protested, leading to a 1773 ecclesiastical court ruling mandating Welsh-speaking priests for Welsh-speaking parishes. Despite this, Bowles retained his position until his death later that year due to ecclesiastical freehold protections. This case set an important precedent for clergy appointments in Wales.

Decline, Restoration, and Preservation Efforts

By the 19th century, the church was abandoned after a new church was built further inland in 1872. Coastal erosion had caused graves around the churchyard to fall into the sea, and the building itself became roofless and dilapidated. Concerned for its fate, local architect Harold Hughes raised funds in 1893 to construct a seawall around Cribinau and restore the church, preserving it as a historic monument. The seawall remains a vital feature protecting the church from the sea’s encroachment.

Present-Day Atmosphere and Visitor Experience

Today, St Cwyfan's Church stands as a picturesque and evocative landmark, often called the most recognizable church on Anglesey. Its whitewashed walls gleam against the backdrop of sea and sky, encircled by the protective seawall on its tiny island. The church is usually locked, but visitors can appreciate its medieval windows, 15th-century doorway, and the visible remains of the northern aisle’s arches from outside. The site offers a tranquil and scenic experience, blending natural beauty with deep historical resonance, especially at low tide when the causeway allows access to this idyllic chapel in the sea.

Legacy and Cultural Heritage

St Cwyfan's Church embodies the resilience of Welsh heritage amid natural challenges and cultural shifts. It stands as a symbol of the enduring connection between community, language, and landscape. The churchyard holds graves from the 18th and 19th centuries, including that of Frank Morley Gurney, a young man who drowned heroically nearby. The church’s story intertwines faith, language rights, and coastal preservation, making it a unique cultural treasure on Anglesey’s rugged coast.

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