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Hôtel de Châteaurenard: A Baroque Masterpiece in Aix

Discover a hidden gem in Aix-en-Provence: Hôtel de Châteaurenard, home to a breathtaking 17th-century trompe-l'œil staircase and a royal connection to Louis XIV.

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The Hôtel de Châteaurenard, located in the heart of Aix-en-Provence, is a stunning example of 17th-century Baroque architecture. Built around 1650 for Jean-François d'Aimar-d'Albi, Baron de Châteaurenard, this hôtel particulier is renowned for its magnificent trompe-l'œil staircase, a masterpiece by the Flemish-born artist Jean Daret. The trompe-l'œil creates an illusion of depth and grandeur, featuring painted figures, architectural elements, and allegorical scenes that captivate visitors. The hôtel's historical significance is amplified by the fact that King Louis XIV resided here in 1660, and was so impressed by the staircase that he appointed Daret as his official painter. Today, the Hôtel de Châteaurenard houses the Direction des Musées et du Patrimoine, offering a glimpse into Aix's rich cultural heritage. Its central location makes it easily accessible and a must-see for anyone exploring the city's historical district, providing a unique blend of art, history, and architectural splendor.

A brief summary to Hôtel de Châteaurenard

  • 19 Rue Gaston de Saporta, Aix-en-Provence, 13100, FR
  • +33442161161

Local tips

  • Check the opening hours before visiting, as access to the staircase may be limited due to its function as an administrative building.
  • Combine your visit with a trip to the nearby Cathédrale Saint-Sauveur and Musée du Vieil Aix to fully immerse yourself in the history and culture of Aix-en-Provence.
  • Take your time to admire the trompe-l'œil staircase; the longer you look, the more details you'll discover.
  • Consider visiting during the off-season (spring or fall) to avoid crowds and enjoy a more relaxed experience.
  • Look for the painted lackey in the trompe-l'œil – a detail so realistic that it has fooled many visitors over the centuries.
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Getting There

  • Walking

    Hôtel de Châteaurenard is centrally located in the old town of Aix-en-Provence and is easily accessible on foot. From the Cours Mirabeau, walk north along Rue Clemenceau, then turn left onto Rue Gaston de Saporta. The hôtel is located on the right-hand side of the street, a few blocks down. Look for the building at number 19. The walk is approximately 5-10 minutes. Note that the streets in the old town are narrow and cobblestoned, so wear comfortable shoes.

  • Public Transport

    If arriving by bus at the Gare Routière (bus station), walk north along Avenue des Belges, then turn left onto Cours Mirabeau. Follow the walking directions above from Cours Mirabeau. Alternatively, several local buses stop near the Cathédrale Saint-Sauveur, a short walk from the hôtel. Check local bus schedules and routes for the most convenient option. A single bus fare is approximately €1.60.

  • Taxi/Ride-Share

    Taxis and ride-sharing services are readily available in Aix-en-Provence. A taxi from the train station or Cours Mirabeau to the Hôtel de Châteaurenard will cost approximately €8-€12, depending on traffic. Be sure to confirm the fare with the driver before starting your journey.

  • Driving

    Driving directly to the Hôtel de Châteaurenard is not recommended due to the narrow streets and limited parking in the old town. It is best to park in one of the city's car parks and walk the final distance. Parking Mignet is a relatively close option. Expect to pay around €2.50-€3.50 per hour for parking.

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Discover more about Hôtel de Châteaurenard

The Hôtel de Châteaurenard, nestled in the historic heart of Aix-en-Provence at 19 Rue Gaston de Saporta, stands as a testament to the city's rich architectural and artistic heritage. Constructed around 1650, this hôtel particulier, or private mansion, was commissioned by Jean-François d'Aimar-d'Albi, Baron de Châteaurenard, a prominent member of the Parliament of Aix. The building itself, with its rather plain facade, offers little hint of the visual feast that awaits within. The true gem of the Hôtel de Châteaurenard is its breathtaking trompe-l'œil staircase, a masterpiece created by Jean Daret, a Flemish painter who settled in Aix in 1636. Daret's work is a stunning example of Baroque illusionism, transforming the staircase into a vibrant and dynamic space. The trompe-l'œil technique, meaning "deceive the eye" in French, creates the illusion of three-dimensional space on a two-dimensional surface. As visitors ascend the stairs, they are greeted by painted figures that seem to step out of the walls, architectural elements that recede into the distance, and allegorical scenes that celebrate the arts and sciences. The staircase is adorned with painted columns, niches, and balustrades, all meticulously rendered to create a sense of depth and grandeur. Figures representing painting, music, astronomy, and other liberal arts populate the scene, their gazes seemingly following visitors as they move through the space. One particularly striking detail is the painted lackey, dressed in the colors of the house, who appears to be peeking out from behind a curtain, as if to observe those entering the hôtel. The level of detail is so convincing that many visitors have been known to address the painted figure, mistaking it for a real person. Adding to the hôtel's historical significance is its connection to King Louis XIV. In 1660, during a tour of Provence, the young king resided at the Hôtel de Châteaurenard. Legend has it that Louis XIV was so captivated by the beauty of the trompe-l'œil staircase that he ordered his guards to protect it from any damage. Impressed by Daret's talent, the king appointed him as his official painter, a distinction that led to numerous commissions and cemented Daret's reputation as one of the leading artists of his time. The trompe-l'œil in Hôtel de Châteaurenard is inspired by Italian Baroque art. Daret masterfully employs perspective and shading to create a sense of depth and movement. The figures are depicted in dynamic poses, their expressions conveying a range of emotions. The overall effect is one of theatricality and grandeur, reflecting the opulence and sophistication of the Baroque era. Today, the Hôtel de Châteaurenard houses the Direction des Musées et du Patrimoine of Aix-en-Provence, making it a center for the city's cultural administration. While the hôtel's primary function is administrative, the trompe-l'œil staircase remains open to the public, offering visitors a chance to experience this remarkable work of art firsthand. The hôtel also occasionally hosts exhibitions and cultural events, further enhancing its role as a cultural hub. The Hôtel de Châteaurenard is located in the Bourg Saint-Sauveur, a historic district of Aix-en-Provence known for its narrow streets, elegant hôtels particuliers, and charming squares. The hôtel is situated near other notable landmarks, including the Cathédrale Saint-Sauveur, a Romanesque-Gothic cathedral with a rich history, and the Musée du Vieil Aix, a museum dedicated to the history and culture of Aix-en-Provence. Visiting the Hôtel de Châteaurenard offers a unique opportunity to step back in time and experience the grandeur of 17th-century Aix-en-Provence. The trompe-l'œil staircase is a testament to the skill and artistry of Jean Daret, and the hôtel's connection to King Louis XIV adds to its historical significance. Whether you are an art enthusiast, a history buff, or simply looking for a unique and memorable experience, the Hôtel de Châteaurenard is a must-see destination in Aix-en-Provence. The Hôtel de Châteaurenard stands as a remarkable example of how art can transform a space, creating an illusion that blurs the line between reality and imagination. Jean Daret's trompe-l'œil staircase is not merely a decorative element; it is a work of art that engages the viewer, inviting them to enter a world of illusion and wonder. The hôtel's historical significance, combined with its artistic beauty, makes it a treasure of Aix-en-Provence, a place where the past comes alive in the present. As you ascend the stairs, take a moment to appreciate the skill and artistry that went into creating this masterpiece. Notice the way the light plays on the painted surfaces, the subtle nuances of the figures' expressions, and the overall sense of depth and perspective. Imagine yourself as a guest of the Baron de Châteaurenard, arriving at this grand hôtel in the 17th century, and allow yourself to be transported to a time of elegance, opulence, and artistic innovation. The Hôtel de Châteaurenard is more than just a building; it is a portal to the past, a place where history and art converge to create an unforgettable experience.

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