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Selkirkshire
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Explore Selkirkshire in Scotland’s Borders for wooded valleys, historic Selkirk, literary landscapes, walking routes and enduring frontier heritage.

Selkirkshire is a historic county in the Scottish Borders, centred on the valleys of the Ettrick and Yarrow and the market town of Selkirk. Although the county is no longer a separate unit of local government, its name remains useful for understanding this distinctive landscape south of Edinburgh. The area is defined by open hills, wooded river corridors, upland farms and settlements shaped by the long, often contested history of the Anglo-Scottish frontier.
Read more about Selkirkshire
Selkirk is the traditional county town and the best base for exploring the surrounding countryside. Its associations with William Wallace, the medieval Forest of Ettrick and the textile trade are reflected in local museums, civic traditions and historic buildings. Nearby Galashiels is the largest commercial centre in the area and has a more urban character, with strong connections to the textile industry and the wider Scottish Borders. Between the towns, the landscape quickly becomes rural, with narrow valleys leading towards forests, lochs and hill country.
The Ettrick and Yarrow valleys are particularly rewarding for visitors who enjoy quiet roads, walking and landscape history. The Yarrow Water flows through a sparsely settled valley associated with ballads, border legends and archaeological remains, while St Mary's Loch provides a broad, tranquil setting for walking, fishing and wildlife watching. Around Selkirk, Bowhill House and its extensive grounds offer insight into the region's landed estates, while Philiphaugh preserves the setting of a decisive seventeenth-century battle.
Selkirkshire also occupies an important place in Scotland's literary and cultural geography. Sir Walter Scott lived nearby at Abbotsford, which lies outside the historic county in neighbouring Roxburghshire, but the landscapes of the Borders that inspired his writing extend into Selkirkshire. Contemporary visitors will find a quieter cultural scene based on museums, galleries, local events, independent shops and community traditions rather than a concentrated urban nightlife.
Food in the region reflects the wider Borders: hearty soups, game, locally produced meat, baking, farmhouse goods and whisky or ale served in traditional pubs and modern cafés. Walking, cycling, fishing and scenic driving are central to the experience, but distances and limited rural public transport make planning important. Selkirkshire is best approached as a landscape of connected valleys and small communities, where its appeal lies in the relationship between history, rivers, hills and working countryside.

When is the best time to visit Selkirkshire?

Best: June–August · 19–21°C
Average daytime high and rainfall by month
MonthHigh (°C)Rainfall (mm)
January670
February660
March966
April1255
May1666
June (best)1971
July (best)2175
August (best)2181
September1870
October1465
November971
December681

Getting to and around Selkirkshire

How to get there

The nearest major international gateway is Edinburgh Airport, outside Selkirkshire and north of the Scottish Borders. From Edinburgh, visitors can travel towards the Borders by road or public transport. The Borders Railway runs from Edinburgh to Tweedbank, which is outside historic Selkirkshire but near Galashiels and a practical rail gateway for Selkirk; onward travel is by bus, taxi or car. Galashiels is the main regional transport hub, while motorists can approach Selkirk via the A7 from the north or south and reach the Ettrick and Yarrow valleys on smaller local roads.

Transportation

A car is useful for exploring Selkirkshire’s dispersed valleys, forests and country estates, particularly beyond Selkirk and Galashiels. Local buses connect the principal Borders towns, but rural services are less frequent and may not reach every walking start or attraction conveniently. Taxis can help with the final section of a journey from Galashiels, Selkirk or Tweedbank. Walking and cycling are rewarding on quiet minor roads and established trails, although hills, weather and occasional fast traffic require care. Allow more time than map distances suggest on winding valley roads.

Best attractions in Selkirkshire

Selkirkshire’s attractions are spread through a landscape of river valleys, wooded estates and upland roads rather than concentrated in one resort. In Selkirk, the town’s museums and civic heritage explain its links with William Wallace, the medieval Forest of Ettrick and the Border textile trade. Philiphaugh Battlefield and visitor interpretation provide a focused encounter with the seventeenth-century Wars of the Three Kingdoms, while nearby Bowhill House and its grounds bring together a historic country estate, woodland walks and family-oriented outdoor activities. The Ettrick and Yarrow valleys are attractions in their own right, offering quiet walking, cycling, fishing and landscape photography. St Mary’s Loch, in the western part of the historic county, provides a broad setting for waterside recreation and wildlife observation. Galashiels adds galleries, cultural venues, shops and textile connections, making it a useful complement to Selkirk’s smaller-town character. Visitors interested in archaeology can explore the wider pattern of hillforts, ancient routes and historic settlements, but should remember that many remains are on open or working land rather than formal museum sites. The region rewards slow travel, with weather, seasons and changing light playing as important a part as individual attractions.

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Best landmarks in Selkirkshire

Selkirk’s historic centre is the principal civic landmark of the county, with the town’s royal burgh identity, church traditions and association with William Wallace still visible in public buildings and commemorative sites. The town’s Common Riding adds a living ceremonial dimension to this built heritage. Philiphaugh Battlefield, southwest of Selkirk, is an important historical landscape because the 1645 Covenanter victory there ended the major campaign of Montrose. Bowhill House and its designed landscape represent the long influence of landed estates on the region’s architecture, forestry and rural economy. In the western valleys, St Mary’s Loch is a natural landmark whose broad waters and surrounding hills create one of Selkirkshire’s most recognisable landscapes. The Ettrick and Yarrow valleys themselves are significant geographical markers, following ancient routes through open hills, wooded slopes and scattered farms. Galashiels, meanwhile, is marked by the architecture and industrial legacy of the Borders textile trade. These landmarks are best understood as connected elements of a historic landscape, not as isolated monuments: rivers, roads, estates and market towns explain how people have moved through and settled the county over many centuries.

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Best restaurants in Selkirkshire

Dining in Selkirkshire reflects the wider Borders countryside and the food traditions of southern Scotland. Selkirk is associated with Selkirk bannock, a rich fruit bread traditionally served with tea, while cafés and bakeries across the region offer soups, filled rolls, cakes and other practical fare for walkers and motorists. Pubs, hotel restaurants and rural inns commonly feature local beef, lamb, game when in season, freshwater fish and vegetables from nearby farms, alongside familiar Scottish dishes. Galashiels has the broadest choice of international and contemporary dining, with cafés and restaurants serving residents, students and visitors using the regional transport hub. Farmers’ markets and specialist food shops are useful places to look for Borders produce, preserves, baking and cheeses, although location and dates vary. Menus change seasonally and rural kitchens may operate limited hours, so booking or checking ahead is sensible outside the main towns. The area’s food culture is generally informal, combining traditional hospitality with modern Scottish cooking rather than relying on a single strongly defined regional cuisine.

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Best bars in Selkirkshire

Evening life in Selkirkshire is centred on traditional pubs, hotel bars, cafés and community venues rather than a large nightclub scene. Selkirk and Galashiels offer the widest choice, with pubs serving local and national beers, whisky and simple meals, while live music, sports and seasonal community events provide much of the evening activity. Galashiels has a younger and more varied audience because of its larger population and educational institutions, whereas evenings in Selkirk and the valleys tend to be quieter and more social. Rural inns can be welcoming places for a drink or meal, but their hours and food service may vary, particularly outside weekends and summer. The region’s breweries, distilleries and drinks producers are part of the wider Borders scene, though visits and tastings require advance checking. Taxis and late public transport are limited in rural districts, so plan the return journey before going out and avoid assuming that a valley pub is easily reached without a car.

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Best nightclubs in Selkirkshire

Evening life in Selkirkshire is centred on traditional pubs, hotel bars, cafés and community venues rather than a large nightclub scene. Selkirk and Galashiels offer the widest choice, with pubs serving local and national beers, whisky and simple meals, while live music, sports and seasonal community events provide much of the evening activity. Galashiels has a younger and more varied audience because of its larger population and educational institutions, whereas evenings in Selkirk and the valleys tend to be quieter and more social. Rural inns can be welcoming places for a drink or meal, but their hours and food service may vary, particularly outside weekends and summer. The region’s breweries, distilleries and drinks producers are part of the wider Borders scene, though visits and tastings require advance checking. Taxis and late public transport are limited in rural districts, so plan the return journey before going out and avoid assuming that a valley pub is easily reached without a car.

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Best shops in Selkirkshire

Shopping in Selkirkshire is practical, local and town-based, with the strongest concentration of shops in Galashiels and a more independent market-town character in Selkirk. Galashiels provides the broadest range of everyday retail, cafés, services and regional shopping, while Selkirk is a good place to look for small shops, galleries, books, gifts and locally made products. Visitors may find Borders textiles, knitwear, woollen goods, pottery, art and craftwork, although stock varies between businesses and seasons. Bakeries and food shops are useful for Selkirk bannock, preserves, shortbread and other edible gifts, while farmers’ markets and occasional local markets offer produce directly from regional makers. Rural villages have limited retail provision, so buy food, fuel and walking essentials in the larger towns before heading into the Ettrick or Yarrow valleys. The area is better suited to thoughtful purchases from independent retailers and craft producers than to luxury shopping or large-scale malls, with the character of each town shaped by its local community and the wider Borders textile tradition.

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Selkirkshire essentials

Currency and Payment
The currency is the pound sterling, written as GBP or £, as throughout the United Kingdom. Cards and contactless payments are widely accepted in Selkirk, Galashiels, larger shops, accommodation and many cafés and pubs. Carry some cash for smaller rural businesses, honesty boxes, local stalls or occasional payment terminals with weak reception. Bank facilities are concentrated in the larger towns, so do not assume that every valley village has an ATM or a full range of services.
Safety
Selkirkshire is generally suitable for normal travel precautions, but its outdoor setting demands preparation. Wear suitable footwear on hill and forest paths, check weather conditions and take care near fast-flowing rivers, lochs and steep or uneven ground. Drivers should expect narrow roads, blind bends, cyclists, walkers and livestock, especially in the Ettrick and Yarrow valleys. Mobile coverage can be inconsistent in remote areas, so download maps and tell someone about longer walks. Keep dogs controlled around farm animals and follow Scottish access guidance.
Emergency Situations
Dial 999 or 112 in an emergency anywhere in Selkirkshire for police, fire or ambulance services. Ask for the coastguard only when dealing with a maritime emergency; it is not relevant to the inland valleys. For incidents in remote countryside, give a precise grid reference or use a reliable mapping application if possible, as the nearest road may be some distance away. For urgent but non-life-threatening medical advice in Scotland, NHS 24 can be reached by calling 111. Do not rely solely on a mobile signal in remote areas.
Do's and Don'ts
Do respect the Scottish Outdoor Access Code, close gates, avoid damaging crops and keep dogs under close control near livestock. Do follow signs at historic sites and ask before photographing private homes, farmyards or people. In pubs and cafés, queueing and polite ordering are expected, while tipping is discretionary rather than compulsory; rounding up or leaving around 10 percent for good table service is customary. Do not assume that every apparently open track is suitable for vehicles, and do not treat local historical traditions as permission to enter private land.
Local Tips
Galashiels is useful for supplies and transport, while Selkirk offers the stronger sense of a historic county town. Combine a visit to Selkirk with Philiphaugh or Bowhill, and reserve a separate outing for the quieter Yarrow and Ettrick roads. The area is especially atmospheric in spring and autumn, but daylight and weather change quickly outside summer. Local museums, independent cafés and community events can provide more context than a hurried circuit of the main sights, so check current arrangements before travelling into the valleys.
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From Eve

Local phrases worth knowing

You don't need to get them perfect. A few words go a long way, and locals appreciate the effort.

6 phrase groups · English, local and pronunciation

Basics
EnglishLocalSay it
HelloHullo[hʌloʊ]
GoodbyeCheerio[tʃɪəriːoʊ]
YesAye[aɪ]
NoNaw[nɔː]
Please/You're welcomePlease/No bother[pliːz/ noʊ ˈbɒðər]
Thank youCheers[tʃɪrz]
Excuse me/SorryPardon me/Sorry[ˈpɑrdən mi/ˈsɔri]
How are you?How's it gaun?[haʊz ɪt ɡɔn]
Fine. And you?Aye, fine. An you?[aɪ faɪn. ən ju]
Do you speak English?Dae ye speak English?[deɪ jə spiːk ˈɪŋɡlɪʃ]
I don't understandAh dinnae understand[ɑː dɪni ˌʌndərˈstænd]
Eating & Drinking
EnglishLocalSay it
I'd like to see the menu, pleaseA'd like tae see the menu, please[aɪd laɪk tə si ðə ˈmɛnjuː pliːz]
I don't eat meatAh dinnae eat meat[ɑː dɪni it miːt]
Cheers!Cheers![tʃɪrz]
I would like to pay, pleaseA'd like tae pay, please[aɪd laɪk tə peɪ pliːz]
Emergencies
EnglishLocalSay it
Help!Help![hɛlp]
Go away!Get lost![ɡɛt lɔst]
Call the Police!Phone the polis![foʊn ðə ˈpoʊlɪs]
Call a doctor!Phone a doctor![foʊn ə ˈdɒktər]
I'm lostAh'm lost[ɑːm lɔst]
I'm illAh'm ill[ɑːm ɪl]
Shopping
EnglishLocalSay it
I'd like to buy...A'd like tae buy...[aɪd laɪk tə baɪ...]
I'm just lookingAh'm just lookin'[ɑːm dʒʌst ˈlʊkɪn]
How much is it?How much's it?[haʊ mʌtʃɪt]
That's too expensiveThat's ower dear[ðæts ˈoʊər dɪr]
Can you lower the price?Can ye lower the price?[kæn jə ˈloʊər ðə praɪs]
Time & Numbers
EnglishLocalSay it
What time is it?What time is it?[wʌt taɪm ɪt]
It's one o'clockIt's one o'clock[ɪts wʌn əˈklɒk]
Half past (10)Half past (10)[hɑːf pɑːst (10)]
MorningMornin'[ˈmɔrnɪn]
AfternoonAfternoon[ˌæftərˈnun]
EveningEvenin'[ˈiːvnɪŋ]
YesterdayYestreen[jɛsˈtriːn]
TodayT'day[təˈdeɪ]
TomorrowMorn's morn[mɔrnz mɔrn]
1One[wʌn]
2Two[tuː]
3Three[θriː]
4Four[fɔːr]
5Five[faɪv]
6Six[sɪks]
7Seven[ˈsɛvən]
8Eight[eɪt]
9Nine[naɪn]
10Ten[tɛn]
Transport & Directions
EnglishLocalSay it
Where's a/the...?Whaur's the...?[wɔːrz ðə]
What's the address?Wha's the address?[wɒtʃ ði əˈdrɛs]
Can you show me (on the map)?Can ye show me (on the map)?[kæn jə ʃoʊ mi (ɑn ðə mæp)]
When's the next (bus)?When's the next (bus)?[wɛnʌs ðə nɛkst (bʌs)]
A ticket (to ....)A ticket (to ....)[ə ˈtɪkɪt (tu ....)]

History of Selkirkshire

Early settlement and the Roman frontier

The valleys and uplands of Selkirkshire contain evidence of prehistoric settlement, including ancient earthworks, burial features and hillfort landscapes. In the first centuries AD, the area lay within the territory of peoples later associated with the northern Britons, close to the shifting frontier of Roman Britain. Roman roads, forts and temporary military installations were established elsewhere in the wider Borders, and their presence influenced trade and movement even where permanent occupation was limited. The surviving landscape of ridges, river crossings and fortified sites records a much longer history than the later medieval border name suggests.

The medieval Forest of Ettrick

In the Middle Ages, the Ettrick Forest was a large royal hunting territory extending across much of the upland country around Selkirk. Royal hunting, livestock rearing and woodland management shaped settlement and landholding, while Selkirk developed as an important royal burgh. The forest was not an untouched wilderness in the modern sense: communities farmed its valleys and used its resources, even as royal authority regulated hunting and land use. The name survives in local place names and helps explain the region’s enduring association with wooded hills and royal landscapes.

The Borders in the age of conflict

For centuries, Selkirkshire formed part of the contested Anglo-Scottish border zone. Raiding, fortified houses and shifting political loyalties affected communities on both sides of the frontier, while local families developed systems of protection and alliance. Selkirk’s strategic position and royal connections gave it particular importance. The period is remembered through ballads, place names and traditions, though popular stories often simplify a complex society in which farming, trade and ordinary family life continued alongside violence. The county’s later cultural identity was strongly shaped by this frontier history.

Selkirk and the Scottish Wars of Independence

Selkirk is traditionally associated with William Wallace, who is said to have been proclaimed Guardian of Scotland at the town in 1297 after the victory at Stirling Bridge. The precise historical circumstances are debated, but Wallace’s connection with Selkirk remains central to the town’s civic identity. The area was also affected by the wider Scottish Wars of Independence, which brought military movement and political upheaval across the Borders. Local commemorations connect medieval national history with the town’s later traditions, including the annual Common Riding.

Philiphaugh and the end of Montrose’s campaign

The Battle of Philiphaugh was fought near Selkirk on 13 September 1645 during the Wars of the Three Kingdoms. A Covenanter army under David Leslie defeated the Royalist forces commanded by James Graham, Marquis of Montrose, bringing his major campaign in Scotland to an abrupt end. The battle had repercussions far beyond the local valley, helping to strengthen Covenanter control in Scotland. The field and interpretation at Philiphaugh provide an accessible way to understand the religious and political conflicts that divided seventeenth-century Britain.

Textiles, roads and the modern Borders economy

From the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, Selkirkshire became increasingly connected to the textile economy of the Scottish Borders. Wool, weaving, dyeing and later mechanised production supported towns such as Selkirk and Galashiels, while improved roads and railway connections opened markets beyond the valleys. Textile manufacturing declined substantially during the twentieth century, but its influence remains visible in town architecture, local institutions and regional food and craft identities. The modern economy combines services, tourism, farming, forestry and specialist textile production with the environmental and cultural value of the countryside.

The Common Riding and living civic tradition

Selkirk’s Common Riding is a major expression of local historical identity. Its origins lie in the medieval practice of marking the burgh’s boundaries, while later commemorations linked the event with Selkirk’s traditions surrounding the Battle of Flodden and the town’s association with William Wallace. The present celebrations combine horseback riding, civic ceremony, music and community participation. Like many Border customs, the event has changed over time rather than surviving unchanged, but it continues to connect Selkirk’s modern population with the town’s burgh history and local memory.

Selkirkshire in Photos

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