Eshaness: Shetland’s Rugged Volcanic Peninsula and Dramatic Coastal Wonder

Volcanic Origins and Geological Marvels

Eshaness is a remarkable landscape shaped by ancient volcanic activity dating back around 395 million years. The peninsula exposes some of the best sections of a volcanic flank in the UK, with visible agglomerates and ignimbrite deposits formed from explosive eruptions and pyroclastic flows. These geological features tell the story of a strato-volcano that once towered here, now eroded to reveal dramatic cliffs and rocky inlets. The coastline is carved by powerful Atlantic waves, creating geos, blowholes, and giant boulder fields that testify to the ongoing natural forces shaping the area.

Iconic Lighthouse and Historical Heritage

Perched on the western coast near Calder's Geo stands the Eshaness Lighthouse, designed by David Alan Stevenson and commissioned in 1929. This tapering square tower, built from concrete due to the unsuitability of local stone, flashes white every 12 seconds and has a range of 25 nautical miles. Automated since 1974, the lighthouse keepers' former accommodation is now available as unique holiday lodging, offering an immersive experience in this remote setting. Nearby, the hamlet of Tangwick hosts the Tangwick Haa Museum, a restored laird’s house that preserves local history and culture.

Wild Coastal Walks and Natural Attractions

The Eshaness Circular walk, about 6km long, offers an accessible yet thrilling exploration of the peninsula’s volcanic cliffs, storm beaches, and archaeological sites such as a ruined broch. Along the route, walkers encounter dramatic features like the Grind o da Navir amphitheatre, where storm waves have hurled massive rocks high above sea level. The Holes of Scraada, a collapsed sea cave with a subterranean passage to the ocean, adds to the mystique. The coastal path is carpeted with wildflowers in summer and hosts abundant seabirds nesting on the cliffs.

Atmosphere and Visitor Experience

Eshaness is a place of raw natural beauty, where the relentless power of the North Atlantic is palpable. The landscape is treeless and windswept, offering panoramic views of St Magnus Bay and offshore islets like Muckle Ossa. The area’s solitude and dramatic scenery make it ideal for nature lovers, photographers, and those seeking a tranquil yet invigorating escape. The nearby Eshaness Tea Rooms and camp site provide welcoming spots to rest and refresh.

Local Amenities and Accommodation

While remote, Eshaness offers several accommodation options including self-catering cottages and the unique lighthouse keeper’s residence. The nearby village of Brae, about a 20-minute drive away, provides essential services such as shops, restaurants, and leisure facilities. The Shetland Amenity Trust manages the lighthouse accommodation and local heritage sites, ensuring preservation alongside visitor access.

Conservation and Accessibility

Eshaness is part of a protected natural environment where visitors are encouraged to respect the fragile coastal ecosystem. The area is accessible primarily by car, with limited public transport options. Walking paths are well maintained but can be exposed to strong winds and variable weather, so appropriate clothing and footwear are advised. The peninsula offers a unique blend of geological wonder, cultural heritage, and wild coastal ambience.