Eshaness Lighthouse: A Remote Beacon on Shetland's Rugged Coast

Architectural Legacy of the Stevenson Family

Eshaness Lighthouse was constructed between 1925 and 1929 by David Alan Stevenson and Charles Alexander Stevenson, members of the famous Stevenson family who engineered many Scottish lighthouses over 150 years. It was the last manned lighthouse designed by this family, marking the end of an era in lighthouse engineering. The tower is a 12-metre (39 ft) high tapering square structure built from concrete due to the unsuitability of local stone, a distinctive choice that adds to its uniqueness. Its white tower with black lantern and ochre trim stands prominently on a 200-foot cliff, giving the light a focal height of 61 metres above sea level.

Maritime Significance and Historical Context

The lighthouse was erected to warn ships of the dangerous Ve Skerries reef located about 8.5 miles offshore, a hazard that had claimed many vessels over centuries. Before the current lighthouse, a temporary acetylene-powered light was installed in 1915 but removed after World War I. Despite the lighthouse’s presence, tragedies like the wreck of the Aberdeen trawler Ben Doran occurred nearby. The rise of oil tanker traffic to Sullom Voe terminal prompted the construction of a lighthouse on the Ve Skerries in 1979, with Eshaness serving as the construction site.

Automation and Current Use

Automated in 1974, the lighthouse’s light intensity was increased to 46,500 candela, extending its nominal range to 25 nautical miles. The original Fresnel lens was replaced with sealed-beam electric lamps. The former keeper’s accommodation, unusual in housing only one keeper instead of the typical three, is now maintained by the Shetland Amenity Trust and serves as holiday accommodation. The isolated setting has remained largely unchanged, preserving the lighthouse’s historic character and its dramatic coastal environment.

Surrounding Natural Wonders

Eshaness is famed for its breathtaking coastal landscape. Nearby are the sea stacks known as The Drongs, the Doorhole natural arch, and the Holes of Scraada, a collapsed sea cave that forms a blowhole when the tide is in. These geological features create a dramatic backdrop to the lighthouse and have inspired local folklore and literature, including settings in the Shetland crime novels by Ann Cleeves.

Life at the Lighthouse

The solitary lighthouse keeper’s life was demanding and isolated, with harsh Atlantic storms battering the cliffs. Former keeper Willie Gifford recalled the ferocity of the seas and the precautions needed, such as wooden shutters and canvas chimney shelters to protect against the elements. The lighthouse’s remote location and the natural forces surrounding it offer visitors a glimpse into the resilience required to maintain such a vital maritime beacon.

Preservation and Visitor Experience

Listed as a category B building, Eshaness Lighthouse remains a significant heritage site. The Shetland Amenity Trust’s stewardship ensures ongoing maintenance and public access to the keeper’s cottage accommodation. Visitors can experience the raw beauty of Shetland’s northwest coast, the lighthouse’s historic ambiance, and the powerful natural environment that shaped its story.