Balquhidder Parish Church & Kirkyard

A Place of Ancient Worship

Balquhidder Kirkyard lies on the lower slopes of the glen, a place where spiritual and earthly worlds have long been felt as close. Long before the first church was built, this was a sacred Celtic site, believed to be a 'thin place' where the veil between realms was especially fine. The hill above, Tom nan Aingeal or 'Hill of Fire', was once used by Druids to light sacred fires at Beltane and Samhain, whose flames would be carried down to rekindle hearths in the glen. In the late 500s or early 600s, St Angus brought Christianity here, building a small stone oratory and being buried on the very spot where the old church now stands in ruins.

From the Little Church to the Old Church

The first known church in the glen, the Eaglais Beag or 'Little Church', was constructed around 1250 on the site of St Angus’s grave. Built by Abbot Labhran, it became the burial place of his heirs, who later became the Clan MacLaren. In 1631, this medieval church was replaced by what is now known as the Old Church, whose weathered stone walls still stand in the kirkyard. Though now a roofless shell, its presence speaks of centuries of worship and community life in this remote Highland parish, where faith and clan history are deeply intertwined.

Rob Roy and the MacGregor Legacy

The kirkyard is most famous as the burial place of Rob Roy MacGregor, the 18th-century outlaw and folk hero. After his death in 1734, he was laid to rest a little to the east of the Old Church, alongside his wife Mary Helen and their sons Coll and Robin. Their graves are among the most visited in the kirkyard, drawing those interested in Highland history and clan legends. The outlawing of the MacGregor name in 1603 and Rob Roy’s long feud with the Duke of Montrose are part of the dramatic story that echoes through these stones, making the site a powerful place for anyone drawn to Scotland’s turbulent past.

The 19th-Century Parish Church

In 1855, a new parish church was built just to the north of the old kirkyard, designed in handsome dressed stone by the noted architect David Bryce. This Church of Scotland building remains in use for regular services and is open to visitors. Inside, it preserves important historic items, including the ancient, boulder-like font, probably of early medieval origin, and the stone traditionally associated with St Angus, which once marked his grave in the medieval church. A small exhibition tells the story of the church and the glen, connecting the present congregation with its deep roots.

Exploring the Kirkyard

Wandering through the kirkyard, visitors encounter a rich tapestry of carved stones and family memorials, many telling of the MacLaren, MacGregor, and Stewart families who shaped the glen. A metal plan near the Old Church helps locate notable graves and explains their significance. The atmosphere is quiet and contemplative, with the surrounding hills and the presence of so many generations creating a sense of timelessness. It is a place that invites reflection, whether for spiritual reasons, historical interest, or simply to absorb the beauty and stillness of this Highland glen.