Geranium

A dining room in the sky above Copenhagen

Perched on the eighth floor of Denmark’s national football stadium in Østerbro, Geranium feels worlds away from the roar of the pitch below. Floor‑to‑ceiling windows wrap the main dining room, framing treetops of Fælledparken and the city skyline in soft Nordic light. The room is intimate yet spacious, with only a handful of widely spaced tables oriented towards the open kitchen so the choreography of the team becomes part of the show. Inside, the design is distinctly Scandinavian: blond woods, pale greys, natural textures and an open fire that flickers gently in cooler months. There are no white tablecloths; instead, the setting is deliberately uncluttered, allowing the ceramics, glassware and food itself to provide the color. A glass‑walled wine cellar and discreet private rooms extend the space, but the atmosphere remains hushed and focused, more like a modern studio than a traditional grand restaurant.

New Nordic philosophy without meat

Geranium is a standard‑bearer for New Nordic cuisine, and its philosophy is rooted in nature, seasonality and a deep respect for Danish and Scandinavian produce. The kitchen works closely with organic and biodynamic farms and foragers, bringing in vegetables, herbs, berries and wild ingredients that shift subtly with each season. In recent years the restaurant has removed terrestrial meat entirely, centering the menu on local seafood and plants. This focus results in intricate compositions where a single ingredient might be explored through multiple textures and temperatures. Lightly smoked lumpfish roe layered over kale and milk, grilled scallops with preserved currant leaves, or forest mushrooms paired with hops and rye echo the landscapes just outside the windows. Sauces are often deeply flavored yet remarkably light, creating a sense of richness without heaviness over the course of many small plates.

The immersive "Universe" tasting journey

Meals at Geranium unfold as a lengthy, carefully paced tasting menu referred to as a "Universe" – a sequence that may span around twenty courses across appetizers, savory dishes and sweets. The experience typically lasts several hours, beginning with a flurry of delicate bites before easing into more composed plates and finishing with a procession of desserts and petit fours. Dishes arrive in a steady rhythm, each presented with a brief explanation that touches on both technique and origin. Hand‑made crockery evokes stone, bark or bone, reinforcing the connection to the natural world. The menu changes with the seasons, so a spring visit might feature kohlrabi, asparagus and fresh herbs, while autumn brings truffles, roots and deeper, earthier flavors. Despite the high level of technique, the progression feels harmonious rather than theatrical.

Service, pairings and behind‑the‑scenes glimpses

Service at Geranium is polished and attentive yet notably relaxed. Staff move quietly through the room, topping up glasses, adjusting cutlery and synchronizing plates without formality overshadowing warmth. The sommelier team offers both classic wine pairings and a thoughtful non‑alcoholic option built around pressed juices, infused teas and ferments that echo the dishes’ flavors. At some points in the meal, guests are invited to leave their table to explore other parts of the restaurant: stepping into the kitchen to watch plates being finished, visiting the wine cellar, or sampling a course in a different space. These interludes break up the length of the tasting and offer a glimpse into the craft underpinning each dish. The experience often ends with a small take‑home treat, extending the memory of the meal beyond the last bite.

Global accolades and a sense of occasion

Geranium has earned three Michelin stars and has been recognized among the very best restaurants in the world, cementing its status as a destination for culinary travelers. Yet the mood in the dining room remains surprisingly calm and understated; the views over parkland, the soft palette and the gentle murmur of the open kitchen create a cocooned atmosphere that feels personal rather than grand. Dining here is a commitment of both time and budget, best approached as a once‑in‑a‑while celebration or centerpiece of a trip. For many visitors, it becomes not just a meal but a carefully orchestrated narrative of Nordic ingredients, design and hospitality, experienced high above the city in a glass‑walled room that seems to float between stadium and sky.