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Val di Susa
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Explore Val di Susa in Piedmont for Roman heritage, alpine villages, historic abbeys, high passes, skiing and mountain cuisine near Turin.

Val di Susa is a long Alpine valley in Piedmont, stretching west from the outskirts of Turin towards the French border at Mont Cenis and the high passes around Bardonecchia. The Dora Riparia runs through its floor, while steep wooded slopes and rocky peaks create a succession of distinct landscapes. Lower Susa is comparatively broad and accessible, whereas the upper valley narrows into a more rugged mountain environment shaped by centuries of movement between Italy and France.
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The valley's principal historic centre is Susa, a town whose Roman remains, medieval churches and mountain setting reflect its importance as a route through the Alps. Its Roman arch, amphitheatre and remnants of ancient roads recall the era when this was a major passage towards Gaul. Further east, the Sacra di San Michele rises dramatically above the valley on Monte Pirchiriano. The celebrated abbey is both a religious monument and one of Piedmont's most recognisable architectural landmarks, with views extending across the lower valley.
Religious and military heritage appears throughout the region. Novalesa Abbey, founded in the eighth century near the Mont Cenis route, occupies a tranquil setting below high mountain terrain, while Fort of Exilles stands above the Dora as a powerful reminder of the valley's strategic significance. Oulx, Cesana Torinese and Bardonecchia developed around alpine communications, trade and seasonal mountain life; today they also serve as bases for skiing, hiking, climbing and cycling. Bardonecchia is particularly well equipped for year-round outdoor activities, while the higher settlements around Mont Cenis offer expansive, windswept landscapes.
Val di Susa's cultural identity is Piedmontese but distinctly alpine, with stone villages, timber details, local chapels and food traditions adapted to mountain conditions. Menus commonly feature polenta, mountain cheeses, gnocchi, savoury pies, cured meats and hearty soups, alongside Piedmontese wines from lower and neighbouring areas. Walking paths range from easy valley excursions to demanding high-altitude routes, and winter brings skiing and snow sports to several resorts. Visitors should allow time for the distances between communes: the valley is linear, but its historic sites, side valleys and mountain roads are best explored at a measured pace.

When is the best time to visit Val di Susa?

Best: June–August · 24–26°C
Average daytime high and rainfall by month
MonthHigh (°C)Rainfall (mm)
January546
February740
March1153
April1563
May1974
June (best)2481
July (best)2669
August (best)2681
September2275
October1763
November1058
December652

Getting to and around Val di Susa

How to get there

From Turin, the main railway and road corridors follow the Dora Riparia west through the valley towards Susa, Oulx and Bardonecchia, with onward international rail connections towards France via the Alpine route. Turin Airport is the principal international gateway and lies outside Val di Susa; Turin city stations may be more convenient for rail travellers. The A32 motorway provides the main road approach, while the SS24 and SS25 offer alternative routes through different sections of the valley. Check current rail and road arrangements before travelling, particularly during winter weather or engineering works.

Transportation

Rail is practical along the main valley corridor, linking Turin with towns including Susa, Oulx and Bardonecchia, although services and stopping patterns vary. Local buses connect some communities and side valleys, but dispersed forts, abbeys, trailheads and mountain passes are generally easier to reach by car. Winter driving requires suitable equipment and attention to weather conditions. Cycling is rewarding on quieter mountain roads, but gradients and traffic on major routes can be demanding. Walking is excellent once at a trailhead, though routes may be separated by considerable changes in altitude.

Destinations in Val di Susa

Resorts, valleys and scenic spots worth a trip of their own.

Best attractions in Val di Susa

Val di Susa's attractions combine Roman archaeology, religious heritage, military architecture and extensive mountain recreation. Susa is the principal historical centre, with the Arch of Augustus, Roman amphitheatre and medieval buildings providing a compact introduction to the valley's past. Above the lower valley, the Sacra di San Michele is the region's most dramatic monument, while Novalesa Abbey offers a quieter encounter with early medieval monastic history. The Fort of Exilles, positioned above the valley route, explains why this corridor was repeatedly fortified. In the upper valley, Bardonecchia, Oulx, Cesana Torinese and surrounding communities provide access to skiing, snowboarding, hiking, mountain biking and climbing. High routes towards Mont Cenis bring open alpine scenery and historic military traces, while lower slopes contain wooded walks, villages and chapels. Attractions are spread along a linear valley, so an itinerary based on railway access will differ from one designed around remote trailheads and mountain passes.

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Best landmarks in Val di Susa

The Arch of Augustus in Susa is Val di Susa's clearest Roman landmark, an elegant monument that records the accommodation reached between Rome and the local ruler Cottius. Nearby Roman remains and the medieval town fabric show how the settlement evolved around the Alpine route. Crowning Monte Pirchiriano above the lower valley, the Sacra di San Michele is an unmistakable silhouette and a major symbol of Piedmontese religious architecture, reached through a steep mountain setting. Novalesa Abbey represents a different landmark tradition: an early medieval monastic complex set in a remote landscape near the Mont Cenis approach. The Fort of Exilles is a formidable military structure above the valley, its walls and position illustrating the importance of controlling movement through the Alps. In the upper valley, the mountain passes and broad alpine landscapes around Mont Cenis are landmarks in their own right, combining natural scale with roads, fortifications and routes shaped by centuries of cross-border travel.

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Explore Val di Susa on the map

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Best restaurants in Val di Susa

Dining in Val di Susa reflects Piedmont's broader culinary traditions while adapting them to Alpine conditions. Menus commonly include polenta, potato gnocchi, mountain cheeses, cured meats, hearty soups and savoury baked dishes, with mushrooms and seasonal produce appearing when available. Local trattorie and village osterie tend to offer the most traditional cooking, while restaurants in Bardonecchia and the ski communities serve both regional dishes and contemporary Italian food for visitors spending time outdoors. Mountain refuges provide simple meals and hot drinks during the hiking and skiing seasons, although access and opening arrangements vary. In Susa and the larger settlements, cafés and pastry shops are useful for breakfast or an afternoon stop. Piedmontese wines are widely available, even though the high valley itself is better known for alpine foodways than for extensive vineyard landscapes. Farmers' markets and specialist food shops can be good places to find cheeses, preserves, bread and other regional products.

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Best bars in Val di Susa

Evening life in Val di Susa is generally centred on cafés, traditional bars, restaurants and pubs rather than a large nightclub circuit. Susa offers relaxed places for an aperitivo and a drink after visiting its historic centre, while Bardonecchia develops a livelier après-ski atmosphere during the winter season, with bars and venues catering to visitors and residents. Oulx and other resort communities also have evening restaurants, wine bars and occasional live music, though the character changes outside peak holiday periods. In smaller villages, nightlife may consist of a local bar, an inn or a social gathering rather than late venues. Mountain refuges and seasonal events can add atmosphere, but their access and schedules are variable. Visitors should not assume that resort nightlife continues at the same intensity throughout the year.

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Best nightclubs in Val di Susa

Evening life in Val di Susa is generally centred on cafés, traditional bars, restaurants and pubs rather than a large nightclub circuit. Susa offers relaxed places for an aperitivo and a drink after visiting its historic centre, while Bardonecchia develops a livelier après-ski atmosphere during the winter season, with bars and venues catering to visitors and residents. Oulx and other resort communities also have evening restaurants, wine bars and occasional live music, though the character changes outside peak holiday periods. In smaller villages, nightlife may consist of a local bar, an inn or a social gathering rather than late venues. Mountain refuges and seasonal events can add atmosphere, but their access and schedules are variable. Visitors should not assume that resort nightlife continues at the same intensity throughout the year.

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Best shops in Val di Susa

Shopping in Val di Susa is concentrated in the market towns and resort centres rather than in one continuous retail district. Susa has everyday shops, cafés, food specialists and small independent businesses around its historic streets, while Bardonecchia and Oulx offer outdoor equipment, winter-sports clothing and practical goods alongside souvenirs. Local markets and farm shops are useful for regional cheeses, cured meats, bread, preserves, honey and other food products, although market days vary by municipality and season. Small craft and gift shops may stock woodwork, textiles, ceramics or alpine-themed items, but visitors should distinguish locally made goods from generic imports. The larger towns provide the most dependable choice of services; high mountain villages have fewer shops and shorter seasonal trading patterns. For a useful memento, regional food products or a well-made item from a local artisan generally reflects the valley more meaningfully than mass-produced mountain souvenirs.

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Val di Susa essentials

Currency and Payment
Val di Susa uses the euro, with the currency code EUR, as elsewhere in Italy. Cards and contactless payments are widely accepted in hotels, transport hubs, supermarkets and established restaurants, particularly in Susa, Bardonecchia and the larger resort communities. Carry some cash for small cafés, village businesses, parking machines, local markets and remote mountain establishments, where card facilities may be less dependable. Banks and cash machines are more readily available in the principal towns than in small high-altitude settlements.
Safety
Ordinary precautions are appropriate in stations, car parks and busy visitor areas. Mountain conditions require more care: weather can change quickly, paths may be snow-covered outside summer, and mobile reception is not universal in isolated terrain. Use marked routes, suitable footwear and weather-appropriate equipment, and check avalanche or trail information before winter excursions. Take care on narrow roads and pass approaches, especially when cycling. At historic sites and abbeys, uneven floors, drops and steep paths may make access difficult for some visitors.
Emergency Situations
The national emergency number 112 operates in Val di Susa for police, fire and medical assistance, with calls routed to the appropriate service. Give the operator a precise location, using a named road, village, trail marker or mountain refuge where possible. In serious mountain incidents, request mountain-rescue assistance through 112; do not rely solely on mobile coverage in remote areas. The same Italian emergency arrangements apply throughout the region, and travel insurance covering outdoor activities is sensible for hiking, climbing and winter sports.
Do's and Don'ts
Dress practically for churches, abbeys and historic interiors, where modest clothing and quiet behaviour are appropriate. Keep to marked paths, close gates behind you and avoid disturbing livestock or private land in the countryside. Do not remove stones, plants or archaeological fragments from trails and historic sites. In restaurants, service styles vary, and a modest tip is optional rather than a fixed obligation; check the bill for any listed service charge. Follow parking signs carefully in compact village centres and respect residents when visiting popular mountain communities.
Local Tips
The valley's lower, middle and upper sections offer different experiences, so pair a Roman and religious heritage day around Susa with a separate excursion towards Oulx or Bardonecchia. Novalesa and Mont Cenis are especially dependent on seasonal road access, while winter resort facilities may operate on a different rhythm from summer museums and trails. Ask local tourism offices about current path conditions and access arrangements. Regional food is often most distinctive in traditional trattorie and mountain refuges, where menus reflect altitude, season and local supply.
Eve, your Evendo local guide

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Local phrases worth knowing

You don't need to get them perfect. A few words go a long way, and locals appreciate the effort.

6 phrase groups · English, local and pronunciation

Basics
EnglishLocalSay it
HelloCiao[chow]
GoodbyeArrivederci[ah-ree-vay-DER-chee]
YesSì[see]
NoNo[noh]
Please/You're welcomePer favore/Prego[pair fah-VOH-ray/PREH-goh]
Thank youGrazie[GRAHTS-ee-eh]
Excuse me/SorryScusi/Mi dispiace[SKOO-zee/Mee dee-SPYAH-cheh]
How are you?Come stai?[KOH-meh stah-ee]
Fine. And you?Bene. E tu?[BEH-neh. Eh too?]
Do you speak English?Parli inglese?[PAR-lee een-GLAY-zeh]
I don't understandNon capisco[Non kah-PEE-skoh]
Eating & Drinking
EnglishLocalSay it
I'd like to see the menu, pleaseVorrei vedere il menù, per favore[vor-RAY veh-DAY-ray eel meh-NOO, pair fah-VOH-ray]
I don't eat meatNon mangio carne[Non MAHN-joh KAR-nay]
Cheers!Salute![sah-LOO-tay]
I would like to pay, pleaseVorrei pagare, per favore[vor-RAY pah-GAH-ray, pair fah-VOH-ray]
Emergencies
EnglishLocalSay it
Help!Aiuto![ah-YOO-toh]
Go away!Vattene via![VAH-tay-nay VEE-ah]
Call the Police!Chiama la Polizia![KYAH-mah lah poh-LEE-tsee-ah]
Call a doctor!Chiama un dottore![KYAH-mah oon doht-TOH-ray]
I'm lostMi sono perso[Mee SOH-noh PER-soh]
I'm illSono malato[SOH-noh mah-LAH-toh]
Shopping
EnglishLocalSay it
I'd like to buy...Vorrei comprare...[vor-RAY-ee kom-PRAR-eh]
I'm just lookingSto solo guardando[sto SOH-loh gwahr-DAN-doh]
How much is it?Quanto costa?[KWAN-toh KOH-stah]
That's too expensiveÈ troppo costoso[eh TROH-poh koh-STOH-zoh]
Can you lower the price?Puoi abbassare il prezzo?[PWOY ab-BAS-sah-ray eel PRET-soh]
Time & Numbers
EnglishLocalSay it
What time is it?Che ore sono?[keh OH-ray SOH-noh]
It's one o'clockÈ l'una[eh LOO-nah]
Half past (10)Dieci e mezzo[DEE-eh-chee eh MEH-tsoh]
MorningMattina[maht-TEE-nah]
AfternoonPomeriggio[poh-meh-REE-joh]
EveningSera[SEH-rah]
YesterdayIeri[YEH-ree]
TodayOggi[OHJ-ee]
TomorrowDomani[doh-MAH-nee]
1Uno[OO-noh]
2Due[DOO-eh]
3Tre[TREH]
4Quattro[KWAHT-troh]
5Cinque[CHEEN-kweh]
6Sei[SAY]
7Sette[SEH-teh]
8Otto[OHT-toh]
9Nove[NOH-vay]
10Dieci[DEE-eh-chee]
Transport & Directions
EnglishLocalSay it
Where's a/the...?Dove si trova ...?[DOH-vay see TROH-vah ...?]
What's the address?Qual è l'indirizzo?[kwahl eh leen-dee-REET-soh?]
Can you show me (on the map)?Puoi mostrarmi (sulla mappa)?[PWOY mo-STRAHR-mee (SOOL-lah MAH-pah)?]
When's the next (bus)?Quando passa il prossimo (autobus)?[KWAN-doh PAH-sah eel PROH-see-mo (OW-toh-boos)?]
A ticket (to ....)Un biglietto (per ...)[oon bee-LYET-toh (per ...)]

History of Val di Susa

Pre-Roman Alpine Communities

Before Roman expansion, Val di Susa was inhabited by Alpine peoples whose communities controlled settlements, pasture and routes through the surrounding mountains. Archaeological evidence and later historical references indicate that the valley was already important because it linked the western Po plain with the passes leading towards present-day France. Its geography encouraged both local pastoral economies and contact between communities on opposite sides of the Alps. The Roman conquest did not erase these earlier patterns; instead, it incorporated the valley into a more formal system of roads, administration and military movement.

Roman Segusium and the Alpine Road

The Romans developed Segusium, the settlement corresponding to modern Susa, as a strategic centre on the route across the Alps. Bridges, roads, monuments and public buildings supported movement between Augusta Taurinorum, the Roman city that became Turin, and Gaul. The surviving Arch of Augustus in Susa, erected in 9–8 BC, commemorates an agreement between Rome and the local king Cottius. Other Roman remains, including an amphitheatre and sections of ancient infrastructure, show how deeply the valley was integrated into imperial communications.

The Foundation of Novalesa Abbey

Novalesa Abbey was founded in 726 by Abbot Eldrado under the patronage of Abbo, a powerful Frankish official. Positioned near the route over Mont Cenis, it became an important religious and cultural centre, with monastic communities contributing to hospitality, land management and the preservation of texts. The abbey experienced disruption during the early medieval period, including attacks that led the monks to relocate temporarily, but it remained closely associated with the history of travel across the western Alps. Its surviving church and setting preserve this long connection between faith and mountain passage.

The Medieval March of Susa

During the Middle Ages, control of Val di Susa was contested by bishops, local lords and the rising powers of the House of Savoy. Susa and the surrounding settlements gained importance because whoever controlled the valley could influence access between Piedmont and the Alpine passes. Castles, fortified sites and religious foundations multiplied along the route. The valley's political history was therefore never isolated from wider European affairs: trade, dynastic alliances, pilgrim traffic and military campaigns all depended on the ability to manage movement through its narrow corridors.

Savoyard Rule and the Mont Cenis Route

From the later Middle Ages onwards, the House of Savoy consolidated its authority in the western Alpine region, and Val di Susa became part of the territories that eventually formed the Kingdom of Sardinia and, later, Italy. Mont Cenis was one of the principal Alpine crossings, used by merchants, officials, armies and travellers. Fortifications such as Exilles and other defensive works reflect the strategic value of the valley, particularly during conflicts involving France and the Italian states. The construction of improved roads and the development of organised transport increased its importance during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.

Railways, Industry and Modern Mobility

Nineteenth-century transport improvements transformed Val di Susa. The railway reached the valley as part of the Turin–Modane connection, and the Mont Cenis railway tunnel, opened in 1871, greatly facilitated movement beneath the Alps. Industrial activity developed particularly in the lower and middle valley, while towns continued to serve as transport and administrative centres. Roads, tunnels and later motor traffic reduced the isolation of the upper settlements but also altered the valley's economy, balancing manufacturing and logistics with tourism, winter sports and outdoor recreation.

Winter Sports and the 2006 Turin Olympics

Skiing and mountain tourism expanded substantially during the twentieth century, especially around Bardonecchia and the resorts of the upper valley. The 2006 Winter Olympics in Turin brought international attention to Piedmont's Alpine venues, including sites in and around Val di Susa. The event accelerated investment in sporting infrastructure and transport while reinforcing the valley's role as a destination for skiing and snowboarding. Today, tourism operates alongside established communities, forestry, agriculture, industry and cross-border transport rather than replacing them entirely.

Val di Susa in Photos

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