Custom House Leith, Edinburgh Travel Guide

Custom House Leith stands as one of the most distinctive Georgian buildings in Scotland, designed by Robert Reid between 1810 and 1812. Its Greek Revival style is epitomized by the imposing Doric columns on the façade, symbolizing governmental authority over the bustling port of Leith. Originally commissioned by the Scottish Boards of Customs and Excise, the building was strategically sited adjacent to the East Dock entrance, visible from the sea, to oversee the movement of ships and goods. The original Royal Arms of King George III remain prominently displayed, underscoring its official function.

After serving as a customs office until 1980, the Custom House transitioned to storage for the National Museum of Scotland’s collections. Over time, the building housed various tenants, including a Post Office and the Mercantile Marine Office. In 2015, the City of Edinburgh Council acquired the building and leased it to the Scottish Historic Buildings Trust (SHBT), a charity dedicated to preserving historic structures. SHBT has since opened the building to the public for creative and community events, while developing plans for its long-term regeneration.

Architect Richard Murphy and his team have proposed an ambitious regeneration plan to transform Custom House into a hybrid-use space. This includes Scotland’s first fully digital museum on the first floor, public amenities such as a café and reception area on the ground floor, and a lively lane of eateries and creative studios at the rear. The design respects the building’s heritage while enhancing accessibility, including the creation of level access and glazed gateways. This vision aims to create a ‘town square for the twenty-first century’—a vibrant cultural and heritage destination at the heart of Leith.

Currently, Custom House serves as a buzzing creative hub with tenants from various artistic disciplines. SHBT actively encourages pop-up events and innovative uses, making the building a dynamic space for local culture and creativity. Visitors can explore historic features alongside contemporary art and enjoy activities in the adjacent Custom Lane. The building’s reopening to the public includes curated visits that highlight both its architectural significance and ongoing restoration efforts.

Custom House is the oldest surviving custom house in Scotland, predating similar buildings in Greenock, Glasgow, and Dundee. Its location and design reflect Leith’s importance as Scotland’s premier port for over six centuries. The building’s proximity to the docks allowed customs officials to monitor up to 150 ships entering and leaving the harbour during its peak maritime activity. This rich history is integral to understanding Leith’s economic and social development.

The building’s original layout included two independent structures combined in 1825 by William Burn, who introduced a central staircase and cupola. The façade’s double-height portico, corner pavilions, and walled lanes contribute to its commanding presence. The rear ‘cruiser store’ faces the Water of Leith, linking the building directly to the waterfront. These architectural elements, combined with the ongoing restoration, preserve the building’s character while adapting it for modern use.