Fast Castle: Dramatic Ruins on the Berwickshire Coast

Ancient Origins and Strategic Importance

Fast Castle’s origins are shrouded in mystery, with evidence suggesting human occupation since the Iron Age. The first recorded mention of the castle dates to 1333, though it likely existed earlier as a defensive site. Its position on a steep rocky headland made it a formidable fortress commanding views over the North Sea and the surrounding coastline. Throughout the 14th and 15th centuries, Fast Castle was a key stronghold contested between English and Scottish forces, reflecting the turbulent history of the Borders region.

Royal Connections and Noble Ownership

By the late 15th century, the castle was held by the powerful Home (Hume) family, who played a significant role in Scottish politics. In 1503, Margaret Tudor, daughter of Henry VII of England, stayed at Fast Castle en route to her marriage to James IV of Scotland, underscoring the castle’s status as both a military and noble residence. The castle’s fortunes fluctuated with the political upheavals of the time, including destruction following the Battle of Flodden in 1513 and subsequent rebuilding in 1522.

Military Engagements and Shifting Control

Fast Castle’s strategic location meant it changed hands multiple times during the 16th century. It was captured by English troops during Henry VIII’s Rough Wooing campaign in 1547 but returned to Scottish control by the time Mary, Queen of Scots, stayed there in 1566. The castle was briefly recaptured by the English in 1570 during conflicts involving English rebels. Its defenses were notable, with artillery including brass merlins and falcons. Ownership later passed to Sir Robert Logan of Restalrig, whose involvement in conspiracies marked the castle’s decline.

Architecture and Ruination

The castle was built atop a rocky platform with a curtain wall surrounding the keep and a drawbridge spanning a narrow chasm from the mainland. Supplies were likely hoisted from boats below, and legends speak of a tunnel to a sea cave. Over the centuries, the castle fell into ruin, with significant damage from lightning in 1871. Today, visitors can explore the remains of the keep and curtain walls, set against dramatic cliffs rising 100 to 150 feet above the sea.

Visitor Experience and Coastal Walks

Accessing Fast Castle involves a steep and sometimes challenging walk of about three-quarters of a mile from a small parking area near Dowlaw Farm. The path traverses grassy fields and descends along cliff edges, rewarding visitors with spectacular views of the coastline and the castle ruins. The site is often combined with walks to nearby St Abb’s Head, offering an immersive experience of Scotland’s rugged coastal landscape.

Legends and Local Lore

Fast Castle’s name is believed to derive from “Fause” or “False” Castle, linked to tales of smugglers who lit false fires to mislead ships onto the rocks, causing wrecks that they plundered. The castle’s eerie history includes stories of treasure hunts by the mathematician John Napier and the posthumous trial of Sir Robert Logan. These legends add a layer of mystique to the already dramatic setting, making Fast Castle a captivating destination for history enthusiasts and nature lovers alike.