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Heart of Midlothian Mosaic, Edinburgh

Discover Edinburgh’s iconic Heart of Midlothian mosaic—a historic site marked by tradition, literature, and local legend on the Royal Mile.

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The Heart of Midlothian is a historic mosaic set into the pavement on Edinburgh's Royal Mile, marking the site of the Old Tolbooth prison and administrative center. This iconic heart-shaped mosaic, located outside St Giles’ Cathedral, is steeped in history and local tradition, including the unique custom of spitting on it for good luck or as a sign of disdain for the prison’s harsh past.

A brief summary to Heart of Midlothian Mosaic

  • 197 High St, Edinburgh, GB
  • Duration: 0.25 to 1 hours
  • Free
  • Environment icon Outdoor
  • Mobile reception: 5 out of 5

Local tips

  • Visit during daylight hours for the best visibility of the mosaic and surrounding historic details.
  • Join the local tradition by spitting on the heart for good luck or to connect with Edinburgh’s history.
  • Combine your visit with nearby attractions like St Giles’ Cathedral and the Royal Mile’s historic sites.
  • Look for brass markers in the pavement that outline the former walls of the Old Tolbooth prison.
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Getting There

  • Public Transport

    Take Lothian Buses routes serving the Royal Mile area, such as routes 35 or 27, with a travel time of approximately 15-25 minutes from Edinburgh city center. Buses run frequently but check schedules for evenings and weekends. A single ticket costs around £1.80.

  • Walking

    The Heart of Midlothian is located on the Royal Mile, easily reached on foot from Edinburgh Waverley Station in about 10-15 minutes. The walk is mostly flat and accessible, passing through historic streets with many nearby attractions.

  • Taxi or Ride-share

    Taxis and ride-share services from central Edinburgh take approximately 5-10 minutes depending on traffic. Fares typically range from £5 to £10. Note that traffic congestion may affect travel times during peak hours.

Heart of Midlothian Mosaic location weather suitability

  • Weather icon Any Weather
  • Weather icon Rain / Wet Weather
  • Weather icon Clear Skies
  • Weather icon Mild Temperatures

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Discover more about Heart of Midlothian Mosaic

Historic Origins and Significance

The Heart of Midlothian mosaic marks the location of the Old Tolbooth, a notorious prison and administrative building that stood from the 14th century until its demolition in 1817. The Old Tolbooth was central to Edinburgh’s governance and justice system, serving as the city’s main jail and site of public executions. The prison was infamous for its brutal conditions, including torture and the display of executed prisoners’ body parts on spikes. Mary, Queen of Scots ordered the original building demolished in 1561 due to its terrible reputation, and a replacement was built featuring the now-famous heart mosaic at its entrance.

Tradition of Spitting and Local Culture

A distinctive local tradition involves spitting on the Heart of Midlothian mosaic. Originally, this act was a gesture of contempt for the prison and the suffering endured within its walls. Over time, the meaning shifted, and today spitting on the heart is considered a good luck charm and a way to ensure a return visit to Edinburgh. This custom remains a vivid and living part of the city’s culture, embraced by both locals and visitors alike.

Literary and Sporting Legacy

The Heart of Midlothian gained further fame through Sir Walter Scott’s 1818 novel of the same name, which immortalized the Old Tolbooth’s story and its symbolic heart. The mosaic also inspired the name and emblem of Edinburgh’s Heart of Midlothian Football Club, a major local sports team. The heart thus connects Edinburgh’s historical, literary, and contemporary cultural identities in a unique and enduring way.

Location and Visitor Experience

Situated prominently on the Royal Mile at 197 High Street, just outside St Giles’ Cathedral, the Heart of Midlothian mosaic is easily accessible and free to visit. It is a modest but powerful marker embedded in the pavement, distinguished by its brickwork contrasting with the surrounding stones. The site is a popular photo opportunity and a poignant reminder of Edinburgh’s complex past, inviting reflection on justice, punishment, and community memory.

Architectural and Urban Context

The mosaic lies within Edinburgh’s Old Town, a historic district characterized by medieval street layouts and significant landmarks. Nearby, St Giles’ Cathedral stands as a testament to Scotland’s religious and civic history, while brass markers in the pavement outline the former walls of the Old Tolbooth. The heart mosaic complements this rich urban tapestry, providing a tangible link to the city’s layered heritage.

Enduring Symbolism and Modern Relevance

Despite the Old Tolbooth’s demolition over two centuries ago, the Heart of Midlothian remains a potent symbol of Edinburgh’s history and identity. It embodies themes of justice, resilience, and local pride. The tradition of spitting on the heart continues to provoke curiosity and engagement, bridging past and present in a uniquely Edinburgh manner. Visitors encountering the heart today participate in a ritual that honors memory and community spirit, making it a must-see landmark on the Royal Mile.

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