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Heart of Midlothian Mosaic, Edinburgh

Discover Edinburgh’s iconic Heart of Midlothian mosaic—a historic symbol of justice, tradition, and local lore on the Royal Mile.

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The Heart of Midlothian is a historic mosaic embedded in the pavement on Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, marking the site of the Old Tolbooth prison and administrative center. Dating back to the Middle Ages, the mosaic symbolizes a dark past of incarceration and public executions. Today, it is a cultural landmark where locals and visitors partake in the tradition of spitting on the heart for good luck, a practice rooted in historical disdain for the prison’s harsh legacy.

A brief summary to Heart of Midlothian Mosaic

  • 197 High St, Edinburgh, GB
  • Duration: 0.25 to 1 hours
  • Free
  • Environment icon Outdoor
  • Mobile reception: 5 out of 5

Local tips

  • Join the local tradition by spitting on the heart for good luck, but be mindful of others and the surroundings.
  • Visit during daylight hours for the best visibility and photo opportunities of the mosaic and surrounding historic area.
  • Explore nearby landmarks such as St Giles’ Cathedral and the brass markers outlining the Old Tolbooth’s former walls.
  • Learn about the site’s history through guided tours of Edinburgh’s Old Town to deepen your understanding of its significance.
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Getting There

  • Public Bus

    Take Lothian Buses routes 35 or 36 from Edinburgh city center, with a travel time of approximately 10–15 minutes. Buses run frequently every 10–15 minutes. A single adult ticket costs around £1.80. The stop is a short walk from the Royal Mile near 197 High Street.

  • Tram

    Use the Edinburgh Trams service to Princes Street stop, about 20 minutes from the airport or city outskirts. From Princes Street, it’s a 10-minute walk along the Royal Mile to the Heart of Midlothian. Tram tickets cost between £1.70 and £6.00 depending on distance.

  • Walking

    If staying in Edinburgh’s Old Town, the Heart of Midlothian is easily accessible on foot. Expect a 10 to 20-minute walk from central landmarks like Edinburgh Castle or Waverley Station. The terrain is paved and suitable for most mobility levels.

Heart of Midlothian Mosaic location weather suitability

  • Weather icon Any Weather
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  • Weather icon Mild Temperatures

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Discover more about Heart of Midlothian Mosaic

Historic Origins of the Heart Mosaic

The Heart of Midlothian marks the location of Edinburgh’s Old Tolbooth, an important civic building dating back to the 14th century. Serving as the city’s administrative hub, courthouse, and prison, the Tolbooth was infamous for its brutal conditions, torture, and public executions. By 1561, the original building was demolished and rebuilt under the order of Mary, Queen of Scots, to improve its structure, including the installation of the heart-shaped mosaic at its main entrance. Despite improvements, the prison continued to house death row inmates and witnessed many grim events until its final demolition in 1817. The mosaic remains the sole physical reminder of this historic site.

Cultural Significance and Local Traditions

The Heart of Midlothian has become a potent symbol of Edinburgh’s history and identity. Locals have long maintained a tradition of spitting on the heart as a gesture originally meant to express contempt for the prison and the executions that took place there. Over time, this act transformed into a ritual believed to bring good luck. The mosaic also inspired the name and crest of the local football club, Heart of Midlothian F.C., further embedding the symbol into the city’s cultural fabric. Visitors often join in the spitting tradition, making it a unique and interactive historical experience.

Location and Surroundings on the Royal Mile

Situated at 197 High Street, the mosaic lies embedded in the cobblestone pavement outside St Giles’ Cathedral, a central and vibrant area of Edinburgh’s Old Town. The Royal Mile itself is a historic street connecting Edinburgh Castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, lined with landmarks, shops, and eateries. Brass markers nearby outline the former footprint of the Old Tolbooth building, giving visitors a tangible sense of the site’s former scale and significance. The area is pedestrian-friendly, making the mosaic easily accessible for exploration and photography.

Legacy in Literature and Popular Culture

The Heart of Midlothian gained literary fame through Sir Walter Scott’s 1818 novel titled after the site. Scott’s work immortalized the Tolbooth’s history and the heart symbol, contributing to its enduring legacy. The mosaic also appears in various local artworks and company logos, reinforcing its status as an icon of Edinburgh’s heritage. The story of the Tolbooth and its mosaic continues to captivate visitors, linking the city’s medieval past with its vibrant present.

Visitor Experience and Atmosphere

Visiting the Heart of Midlothian offers a poignant encounter with Edinburgh’s layered history. The mosaic’s simple yet evocative design invites reflection on the city’s judicial past and the lives affected by the Tolbooth’s presence. The surrounding area buzzes with the energy of tourists and locals alike, with the spitting tradition adding a quirky and memorable element to the visit. The site is free to access at any time, though daylight hours provide the best viewing conditions for photography and appreciating the mosaic’s details.

Preservation and Continuing Relevance

Though the Old Tolbooth building no longer stands, the Heart of Midlothian mosaic preserves its memory in the cityscape. The site is maintained as a protected historical landmark, ensuring that this emblem of Edinburgh’s complex past remains visible and respected. The ongoing tradition of spitting on the heart, while unusual, highlights the community’s connection to its history and the ways in which collective memory is kept alive through ritual and storytelling.

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