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Heart of Midlothian Mosaic

A granite heart marking Edinburgh's most infamous prison, where superstition meets Scottish history on the Royal Mile.

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A striking heart-shaped granite mosaic embedded in the Royal Mile's cobblestones outside St Giles' Cathedral, marking the site of Edinburgh's infamous Old Tolbooth. This 16th-century administrative building and prison was demolished in 1817, but the mosaic endures as a symbol of the city's dark history. Locals maintain the centuries-old tradition of spitting on the Heart for good luck—a custom born from contempt for the executions and suffering that occurred within those walls. Free to visit and instantly recognizable, it's one of Edinburgh's most iconic landmarks and a must-see on any Royal Mile exploration.

A brief summary to Heart of Midlothian Mosaic

  • 197 High St, Edinburgh, GB
  • Duration: 0.25 to 1 hours
  • Free
  • Environment icon Outdoor
  • Mobile reception: 5 out of 5

Local tips

  • Visit during quieter hours (early morning or late afternoon) to avoid the peak crowds between 1 and 4 pm, allowing for better photography and reflection.
  • Combine your visit with St Giles' Cathedral directly adjacent—its Gothic architecture and stained glass windows provide stunning context and photo opportunities.
  • Read Sir Walter Scott's novel 'The Heart of Midlothian' before or after your visit to deepen your understanding of the site's literary and historical significance.
  • Look for the brass markers on the pavement nearby that outline where the Old Tolbooth's walls once stood, providing a sense of the building's original footprint.
  • The Heart is best appreciated as part of a full Royal Mile walk from Edinburgh Castle to Holyrood Palace, allowing you to understand its place within the city's historic geography.
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Getting There

  • Public Transport

    Edinburgh's city center is served by extensive bus networks. Multiple bus routes serve the Royal Mile area, with stops on Princes Street and South Bridge within 5–10 minutes' walk. Journey times from Edinburgh Waverley Railway Station are approximately 10–15 minutes by bus. Buses run frequently throughout the day, with reduced service in the evening. Single fares cost around £1.80–£2.00 GBP, or purchase a day ticket for £4.50 GBP for unlimited travel.

  • Walking from Edinburgh Castle

    The Heart of Midlothian lies directly on the Royal Mile's main thoroughfare, approximately 200 meters downhill from Edinburgh Castle's main entrance. The walk takes 3–5 minutes on a gentle downward slope along the historic cobblestone street. The route is fully pedestrianized, well-lit, and lined with shops and attractions. This is the most popular and scenic approach, offering views of historic architecture throughout.

  • Walking from Holyrood Palace

    From the Palace of Holyroodhouse at the foot of the Royal Mile, the Heart is approximately 400 meters uphill along the main street. The walk takes 7–10 minutes on a gentle upward slope. The entire route is pedestrianized and passes numerous historic sites, museums, and cafes. This approach allows you to experience the Royal Mile's full length and discover hidden closes and side streets.

  • Taxi or Ride-Sharing

    Taxis and ride-sharing services operate throughout Edinburgh. Journey times from the city center are typically 5–10 minutes depending on traffic. However, the Royal Mile's narrow cobblestone streets are pedestrianized, so vehicles cannot access the Heart directly. Taxis can drop you at nearby streets such as Cockburn Street or the Grassmarket, from which it's a 2–3 minute walk. Typical taxi fares from the city center range from £8–£15 GBP.

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A Monument to Edinburgh's Darkest Chapter

The Heart of Midlothian is a heart-shaped mosaic crafted from colored granite setts, set into the pavement directly outside the western door of St Giles' Cathedral on the Royal Mile. This elegant yet haunting symbol marks the precise location where Edinburgh's Old Tolbooth once stood—a building that served as the city's administrative center, prison, and execution site from the 15th century until its demolition in 1817. The Old Tolbooth was the heart of Midlothian, the ancient county in which Edinburgh was located, and the mosaic preserves this grim legacy for posterity.

The Tradition of Spitting: From Disdain to Good Fortune

Perhaps no landmark in Edinburgh is more associated with an unusual custom than the Heart of Midlothian. Locals and visitors alike have maintained a centuries-old tradition of spitting upon the mosaic as they pass—a practice that has transformed in meaning over time. Originally, the act represented contempt and disdain for the horrors that unfolded within the Old Tolbooth's walls: the torture, imprisonment, and public executions that made it one of Scotland's most feared institutions. Over generations, this gesture of revulsion evolved into a superstition, and today it is widely believed that spitting on the Heart ensures the visitor will one day return to Edinburgh. Whether motivated by historical remembrance or modern superstition, the tradition remains vibrantly alive, making the Heart one of the city's most visited and most unusual landmarks.

Literary Immortality Through Sir Walter Scott

The Heart of Midlothian gained enduring cultural significance through the work of Sir Walter Scott, Scotland's most celebrated novelist. In 1818, Scott published his seventh Waverley Novel, titled "The Heart of Midlothian," which drew inspiration from the Old Tolbooth and its dark history. Scott's masterwork helped immortalize the building's memory and ensured that even after its physical destruction, the story of the Tolbooth would live on in Scottish consciousness. The novel's popularity led directly to the installation of the heart-shaped mosaic to commemorate the site, transforming a piece of street furniture into a literary landmark. The Heart has since inspired numerous cultural references, most notably becoming the namesake of Heart of Midlothian Football Club, one of Edinburgh's two major football teams.

A Living Link to Medieval Edinburgh

Walking the Royal Mile today, visitors stand in the footsteps of centuries of Edinburgh residents and dignitaries. The Heart of Midlothian serves as a tangible connection to the city's medieval and early modern periods, when the Tolbooth functioned as the seat of municipal authority. The building's significance extended beyond its role as a prison; it was where the city's business was conducted, where justice was administered, and where the community's most dramatic moments unfolded. Though the structure itself vanished nearly two centuries ago, the mosaic ensures that the site remains a focal point of historical awareness and reflection.

Integration Within the Royal Mile's Historic Tapestry

The Heart of Midlothian occupies a central position on the Royal Mile, one of Europe's most historically rich thoroughfares. Stretching from Edinburgh Castle at the summit to the Palace of Holyroodhouse at the base, the Mile is lined with centuries-old architecture, hidden closes, and countless attractions. St Giles' Cathedral, which stands immediately adjacent to the Heart, is itself a magnificent medieval structure dating to the 12th century and serves as the mother church of Presbyterianism. The proximity of these two landmarks creates a powerful historical nexus where visitors can contemplate both spiritual and civic dimensions of Edinburgh's past. The Heart's location makes it an essential waypoint on any exploration of the Royal Mile, naturally encountered during a leisurely walk between the castle and palace.

Accessibility and Visitor Experience

The Heart of Midlothian's greatest strength lies in its accessibility and immediacy. Located on a flat, pedestrian-only section of the Royal Mile, the mosaic is free to visit at any time and requires no tickets, reservations, or planning. The site is relatively accessible to visitors with mobility challenges, though the uneven cobblestone surface may present minor navigation difficulties. The Heart's compact size and straightforward location make it easy to find and photograph, contributing to its status as one of Edinburgh's most Instagrammable landmarks. Whether visited as a deliberate pilgrimage or discovered by chance during a Royal Mile stroll, the Heart offers a moment of reflection on Edinburgh's complex history—a place where beauty, history, superstition, and literature converge in a single heart-shaped stone.

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