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Earl's Palace, Birsay

Explore the windswept ruins of a 16th-century earl’s palace on Orkney’s northern coast, where Renaissance ambition met ruthless rule and dramatic coastal scenery.

4.5

Perched on the windswept northern tip of Orkney’s Mainland, the ruins of Earl’s Palace in Birsay rise from the grass like a forgotten stronghold of power and intrigue. Built in the late 16th century by Robert Stewart, half-brother to Mary, Queen of Scots, this Renaissance-style courtyard castle once echoed with the footsteps of a ruthless earl and his family. Though now roofless and open to the sky, its thick walls, gun holes, and grand layout still speak of opulence and ambition, set against a backdrop of dramatic coastal cliffs and seabird cries.

A brief summary to Birsay Earl's Palace

  • Mainland, Orkney, GB
  • Visit website
  • Duration: 0.5 to 1.5 hours
  • Free
  • Environment icon Outdoor
  • Mobile reception: 3 out of 5
  • Monday 12 am-12 am
  • Tuesday 12 am-12 am
  • Wednesday 12 am-12 am
  • Thursday 12 am-12 am
  • Friday 12 am-12 am
  • Saturday 12 am-12 am
  • Sunday 12 am-12 am

Local tips

  • Wear sturdy footwear and a windproof jacket; the site is exposed to strong coastal winds and the ground can be uneven and slippery, especially after rain.
  • Visit early in the day or in the late afternoon to avoid the busiest times and to catch the best light for photographs of the ruins against the sea.
  • Combine your visit with a walk to the nearby Brough of Birsay, but check tide times carefully as the causeway is only safe to cross at low tide.
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Getting There

  • Public Transport

    From Kirkwall, take a local bus service towards Birsay; the journey takes about 30–40 minutes. The stop is a short walk from the palace, along a well-maintained but exposed coastal road.

  • Car

    Drive north from Kirkwall on the A965, then follow local signs to Birsay; the total drive is around 20–25 km and takes 30–40 minutes. A small car park is located near the village, from which the palace is a 5–10 minute walk along a paved and gravel path.

  • Walking

    From the centre of Birsay village, the palace is an easy 5–10 minute walk along a flat, paved and gravel path; the route is exposed to wind and weather but offers fine coastal views.

Birsay Earl's Palace location weather suitability

  • Weather icon Any Weather
  • Weather icon Windy Conditions
  • Weather icon Mild Temperatures

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Discover more about Birsay Earl's Palace

A Palace of Power and Ambition

Standing on the northern edge of Orkney’s Mainland, the ruins of Earl’s Palace in Birsay were once the seat of Robert Stewart, illegitimate son of James V and half-brother to Mary, Queen of Scots. Constructed between 1569 and 1574, this was no modest residence but a statement of authority: a fortified Renaissance courtyard castle designed to impress and intimidate. Its four ranges of two-storey buildings, corner towers, and grand southern entrance proclaimed the earl’s status, while gun holes in every wall hinted at the constant threat of rebellion and the earl’s own harsh rule.

Life in the Stewart Stronghold

The palace was built in phases, with the great hall and private chamber in the south range completed first, followed by a second range on the north side after Robert was formally created Earl of Orkney in 1581. The upper floors housed the earl’s halls, chambers, and a gallery, once richly decorated with painted ceilings depicting biblical scenes such as Noah’s flood and Christ’s entry into Jerusalem. Below, the ground floor held service rooms and cellars, supported by the labour and produce of the local population. This was a place of relative opulence, yet also a fortress, reflecting the turbulent politics of 16th-century Orkney.

The Fall of the Stewart Earls

Robert Stewart’s rule was marked by controversy and accusations of tyranny, and his son Patrick, known as ‘Black Patie’, continued in the same vein. After Patrick’s arrest in 1610, his son Robert briefly recaptured the palace and seized the Earl’s Palace in Kirkwall, but both were captured and executed in 1615. With the overthrow of the Stewart earls, the palace’s story as a noble residence effectively ended. It passed to the bishops of Orkney, who occupied it until the late 17th century, but by 1700 it was roofless and rapidly decaying into the atmospheric ruin we see today.

Exploring the Ruins Today

Today, visitors can freely explore the shell of the palace, walking through the courtyard and into the remains of halls and chambers, with information boards explaining the original layout and function of each space. The site is remarkably complete for a ruin, allowing a clear sense of its original scale and design. The surrounding landscape is equally compelling: high cliffs, seabird colonies, and views across the Pentland Firth, with the nearby Brough of Birsay offering further layers of Pictish and Norse history accessible at low tide. The village nearby, locally known as ‘The Place’ (a corruption of ‘The Palace’), still bears the legacy of this once-grand residence.

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