Whaligoe Steps: Historic Cliffside Staircase to a Hidden Scottish Harbour

Origins and Historical Significance of Whaligoe Steps

Whaligoe Steps were commissioned in 1793 by Captain David Brodie, who invested £8 to carve this remarkable stairway into the cliff face to improve access to Whaligoe Haven, a natural harbour surrounded on three sides by 250-foot cliffs. The steps served as a crucial link for the local fishing community, especially during the 19th century herring boom. Fisherwomen, some reportedly in their seventies, would descend these steep stone steps carrying heavy baskets of fish to be processed and transported on foot to markets in Wick, 7 to 8 miles away. The harbour supported numerous boats and fishermen until the mid-20th century, with the last fishing boat arriving in the 1960s. Since then, local volunteers have maintained the steps, preserving this slice of Scottish maritime heritage.

Architectural and Natural Features

The staircase zigzags down the cliff in a series of flagstone steps, with estimates ranging from 330 to 365 steps. The descent is steep and exposed, with a low stone wall on the seaward side for much of the route, disappearing near the bottom to reveal dramatic vertical drops. At the base lies the Bink, a grassy area roughly the size of a narrow tennis court, historically used for storing salt to cure fish. Beyond the Bink, additional steps lead to the rocky Neist shelf by the water’s edge, where remnants of fishing activity such as winches and drilled hoops in the cliffs remain. The surrounding cliffs are home to nesting seabirds like fulmars, oystercatchers, and terns, adding to the wild coastal atmosphere.

Visitor Experience and Surroundings

Visitors approach the steps via a short track past fishermen’s cottages, giving a sense of walking through a lived-in landscape. The route is lined with wildflowers in season and offers spectacular panoramic views of the North Sea and rugged coastline. The climb back up is physically demanding but rewarding, with a waist-high flat rock halfway down where fisherwomen once rested their baskets. Nearby, the Cairn o’ Get, an ancient chambered cairn, offers an additional historical point of interest. The small car park at the top has limited spaces and no facilities, so planning your visit outside peak times is advisable. Donations are encouraged to support ongoing maintenance by local volunteers.

Conservation and Community Efforts

The steps have undergone numerous repairs since their creation, including significant volunteer-led restoration after landslips. Dedicated locals like David Nicolson and historian Iain Sutherland have tirelessly worked to quarry stone, clear rubble, and maintain the path and surrounding grasslands. This community stewardship ensures the steps remain safe and accessible for visitors, preserving an essential part of Caithness’s cultural landscape. The site remains free to visit, emphasizing its value as a shared heritage asset.

Practical Considerations for Visitors

Due to the steepness and uneven stone surface, caution is advised, especially in wet or windy conditions. The steps are not suitable for those with mobility impairments. Parking is free but limited to around 10 vehicles, with alternative parking available at the nearby Cairn o’ Get site, about a 10-minute walk away. There are no public toilets or bins at the car park. The remote location means that personal vehicles are the most practical way to visit, as public transport is sparse. The best times to visit are early morning or late afternoon to avoid crowds and parking difficulties.

Whaligoe Steps in the Context of the Scottish Highlands

Whaligoe Steps is a quintessential North Coast 500 attraction, offering a blend of natural beauty, rugged adventure, and poignant history. It embodies the resilience and resourcefulness of coastal communities in Scotland’s far north and provides a striking contrast to more accessible tourist sites. The dramatic cliffs, echoing harbour, and the physical challenge of the climb create a memorable experience that connects visitors to the region’s maritime past and wild landscape.