Højbyen, Kalundborg’s Medieval Upper Town

A Medieval Hilltop Quarter Above the Harbor

Højbyen – literally “the High Town” – crowns a low hill above Kalundborg’s harbor, forming the city’s medieval heart. Laid out in the late 12th century as a planned fortified town, it still follows a distinctive lens-shaped street pattern that sets it apart from surrounding neighborhoods. Narrow lanes such as Adelgade and Præstegade curve softly along the hilltop, edged by closely packed houses whose gables step down toward the water. From here you sense how the upper town once controlled both land and sea approaches. Glimpses of the fjord between rooftops underline Højbyen’s historic role as a Baltic trading hub, while the compact scale and enclosed feel hint at its former life behind ramparts and castle walls.

The Five-Towered Church at the Center

At the core of Højbyen stands the Church of Our Lady, Kalundborg’s extraordinary five-towered brick church. Built in the early 13th century, it rises like a compact fortress-cathedral, with a central tower ringed by four corner towers arranged in a Greek cross ground plan. The design is often linked to the Biblical vision of the Heavenly Jerusalem, and remains unique in Denmark. The church’s warm red brick, heavy buttresses and narrow, high windows give it a distinctly Romanesque character. Step back along Adelgade and you see the towers assembling into an almost castle-like silhouette above the roofs. Inside, when open, the high nave, simple decoration and cool light emphasize the building’s medieval origins and the wealth and ambition that shaped Kalundborg in the age of crusades.

Cobbled Streets, Half-Timbered Houses and Quiet Corners

Wandering Højbyen’s streets is like walking through a concentrated anthology of Danish town architecture from the 15th to 17th centuries. Cobbles underfoot lead past plastered houses in muted yellows and pinks, classic red brick facades and occasional half-timbered walls with dark beams and white infill. In summer, hollyhocks and climbing roses soften doorways and stone steps. Among the most striking buildings are former clergy residences, merchants’ homes and later civic buildings, many with steep roofs and intricate door surrounds. Around the church you find the former vicarage and other ecclesiastical properties, while nearby stands Lindegården, housing Kalundborg Museum, which delves deeper into local history when open. Small details – carved lintels, old wooden gates, uneven brickwork – reward slow, observant exploration.

Traces of Fortifications and Forgotten Castles

Højbyen was once protected by walls and dominated by the stronghold of Vestborgen, a castle founded by Esbern Snare, an influential 12th-century nobleman. Although the fortifications and much of the castle were dismantled in the 15th century and their stone reused elsewhere in the town, the hilltop topography and street pattern still echo this defensive past. Archaeological work in the 20th century rediscovered the ruins of Vestborgen beyond the church and museum area. While the remains are modest, knowing that a long-lost castle stood here adds an extra layer of imagination to any walk through the upper town. The sense of a once-strategic place, later partly forgotten and then quietly preserved, is part of Højbyen’s charm.

A Calm, Lived-In Quarter in Today’s Kalundborg

Despite its historical importance, Højbyen remains a residential neighborhood as much as a sight. You are likely to share the streets with locals walking dogs or carrying groceries rather than tour groups. This everyday calm, especially outside peak summer weekends, makes the quarter feel authentic and unforced. From select spots near the church and along the hill’s edges, you can look down over the modern town, harbor installations and the fjord beyond, linking Kalundborg’s medieval past to its contemporary role as a port and industrial center. Visiting Højbyen is less about ticking off a single monument and more about absorbing the atmosphere of an unusually intact Danish medieval townscape in a compact, easily explored setting.