Søndermarken

From royal hunting ground to urban refuge

Søndermarken stretches along the crest of Frederiksberg Hill, a green counterpoint to Frederiksberg Gardens on the other side of busy Roskildevej. Laid out in the 18th century as a royal hunting ground for the nearby palace, it was designed as a semi-wild landscape where kings could ride and stalk game. That aristocratic past still shapes the experience today: broad sightlines, long straight alleys and dense thickets feel purposeful rather than accidental. In 1852 the grounds were opened to the public, transforming the area into what became known as a people’s park. Over time the lawns and open spaces have hosted gatherings, cultural events and open-air activities, but the park has retained an unmanicured character. Compared with many European palace parks, Søndermarken feels less like a formal garden and more like a pocket forest embedded in the city.

Wooded slopes, wild meadows and hidden corners

The terrain here is unexpectedly varied for inner Copenhagen. Paths dip and rise across gentle hills, sometimes threading beneath tall canopies of beech and other mature trees, sometimes emerging into sunlit lawns. Long, meadow-like grasses and areas of deliberately wild vegetation give the park a soft, slightly untamed look, especially in late spring and summer when the greenery is at its fullest. Birdlife thrives in this semi-wild setting. Owls have been recorded in the old trees, and you are likely to hear rustling in the undergrowth from smaller species even on busy days. Away from the main arteries, smaller side paths lead to quiet benches and secluded patches of grass where you can stretch out with a book or simply watch the dappled light move across the ground.

Everyday local life in a green backdrop

Despite its historical pedigree, Søndermarken functions very much as an everyday park. Early mornings and late afternoons see steady streams of joggers looping around the perimeter, making use of the soft paths and modest gradients. Dog walkers trace habitual routes along the tree-lined avenues, and office workers drift through at lunchtime in search of a tranquil spot away from urban noise. Families gravitate towards the playground, where children can play under the shelter of surrounding trees while adults relax nearby. In warmer months the lawns become outdoor living rooms for picnics and casual meet-ups, yet the park’s size and leafy density mean you can usually find a quieter area if you prefer solitude.

Cisternerne and the world beneath the grass

The most surprising feature of Søndermarken lies underground. Cisternerne occupies a former water reservoir built to secure clean drinking water for Copenhagen in the 19th century during an era of public health challenges. Long disused as infrastructure, the cavernous space has been reborn as a contemporary art venue, with installations responding to the cool temperatures, echoing acoustics and near-darkness below. Descending from the daylight of the lawns into the dim, high-vaulted chambers creates a striking contrast with the park above. Reflections in shallow water, shafts of light and soundscapes turn the cisterns into a sensory environment quite unlike traditional white-cube galleries. Back at ground level, the discreet entrance blends almost seamlessly into the landscape, reinforcing the sense that a parallel world runs beneath your feet.

Memorials, art and neighbouring landmarks

Scattered through the greenery are monuments and smaller curiosities that hint at wider stories. A memorial mound raised by Danish Americans commemorates historical ties across the Atlantic, while statues and sculptural details add quieter points of interest along the main routes. None dominate the park, but each offers an excuse to pause and look more closely at your surroundings. Just beyond the trees, major cultural neighbours frame the experience. Frederiksberg Palace rises behind the adjoining Frederiksberg Gardens, while Copenhagen Zoo sits nearby, contributing occasional distant animal calls to the park’s soundscape. This cluster of attractions makes Søndermarken an easy addition to a wider day exploring Frederiksberg, yet it retains a calmer, more contemplative character than many of its surroundings.

Planning your visit and making the most of the space

Søndermarken is open at all hours and free to enter, which encourages spontaneous visits as much as planned excursions. Sturdy, mostly level paths make it accessible in most weather; only the steepest slopes and some unpaved tracks may pose challenges after heavy rain. The park works well for a brisk 30-minute loop as well as for unhurried half-days combining picnics, reading breaks and a visit to Cisternerne. Light changes the mood markedly. On clear mornings, long shadows stretch along the avenues and the atmosphere is particularly serene. In mist or gentle rain the wooded sections feel almost rural, with fewer visitors and a stronger sense of enclosure. Whatever the conditions, Søndermarken offers a rare blend of history, everyday Danish life and semi-wild nature within easy reach of central Copenhagen.