Earl's Bu and Round Church, Orphir: A Norse Earl's Estate in Orkney

A Norse Earl’s Residence Rooted in Saga and History

The Earl's Bu at Orphir was the home of powerful Norse Earls in the 12th century, notably Earl Haakon Paulsson. Its story is immortalized in the Orkneyinga Saga, which describes grand Yule feasts held here, a hallmark of Norse elite culture used to reward loyalty and assert power. The estate included a large drinking hall and a magnificent church, forming a complex that was both a political and social hub. Positioned on a hillside overlooking Orphir Bay and the strategic Scapa Flow anchorage, the site’s location underscores its importance in medieval Orkney.

The Remarkable Round Church Dedicated to St Nicholas

The Round Church, built in the 12th century, stands out as one of only two medieval round churches in Scotland and the only surviving example of its kind. Likely inspired by the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, which Earl Haakon visited on pilgrimage, the church’s circular design and thick stone walls (1.2 meters thick) evoke a strong architectural statement. Dedicated to St Nicholas, a saint associated with royalty and high status, the church symbolized the Earl’s elite status and connection to wider Christian traditions. Today, only parts of the semi-circular apse and nave remain, surrounded by later gravestones.

Archaeological Insights and Unanswered Mysteries

Despite its significance, the Earl’s Bu and Round Church have never been fully excavated, leaving much to the imagination. Excavations in the early 20th century uncovered artefacts such as a runic stone, an antler bone case, and human burials, hinting at the site’s rich Norse heritage. The foundations of the drinking hall remain visible, though the exact layout and size of this building are still debated. Archaeological studies suggest the estate was a centre of consumption with evidence of elite feasting, including remains of pigeons, chickens, and haddock, reflecting the high status of its occupants.

The Estate’s Place in Orkney’s Norse Heritage

The Earl’s Bu and Round Church form a key part of Orkney’s Norse legacy, cared for by Historic Environment Scotland and supported by the local Orphir Community Council. The site’s connection to the Orkneyinga Saga and its architectural uniqueness make it a vital link to understanding Norse power structures and religious practices in medieval Scotland. It also lies on the St Magnus Way pilgrimage route, connecting visitors to broader spiritual and historical journeys in Orkney.

Setting and Atmosphere of the Ruins Today

Visitors to the site experience a tranquil and scenic environment with views across Orphir Bay and Scapa Flow. The ruins, though modest in scale, evoke a sense of mystery and grandeur from a bygone era. The surrounding landscape enhances the feeling of stepping back into Norse times, inviting reflection on the lives and ceremonies of the Earls who once ruled here. The visitor centre nearby provides informative context, enriching the experience with historical narratives and archaeological findings.

Continuing the Story of Orphir’s Norse Estate

While much remains to be uncovered about the Earl’s Bu, ongoing research and community engagement continue to shed light on this enigmatic site. Its combination of saga heritage, unique architecture, and archaeological intrigue ensures the Earl’s Bu and Round Church remain compelling destinations for those interested in Viking history, medieval architecture, and Orkney’s cultural landscape.