Hernals (Vienna) Travel Guide - Free

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Hernals
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Hernals, Vienna’s 17th district, blends village streets, Heuriger wine taverns, historic churches and Wienerwald walks with easy city connections.

A District of Villages and Vineyards

Hernals occupies Vienna’s north-western edge, where the dense urban fabric gradually gives way to the wooded slopes of the Wienerwald. The 17th district brings together three historically distinct settlements: Hernals itself, the long-established village along Hernalser Hauptstraße; Dornbach, whose lanes rise towards the forest; and Neuwaldegg, a greener and more spacious area shaped by former estates and landscaped grounds. Their identities remain visible in the changing streetscape, although all are now part of Vienna’s metropolitan city.
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Urban Life Along Hernalser Hauptstraße

The district’s main urban artery, Hernalser Hauptstraße, is lined with tram tracks, everyday shops, cafés and apartment buildings, while quieter side streets reveal parish churches, older villas and remnants of village-scale development. Elterleinplatz forms a useful local focus, and the Kalvarienbergkirche gives Hernals one of its most distinctive religious landmarks. The area is less ceremonially grand than Vienna’s central districts, but its appeal lies in the contrast between practical city life and pockets of historical character.

Music, Wine and the Wienerwald

Hernals has an important place in Vienna’s popular musical history through the Schrammel tradition, named after the brothers Johann and Josef Schrammel, whose late nineteenth-century music helped define a Viennese sound of fiddles, accordion and guitar. Today, local Heuriger wine taverns, traditional restaurants and beer gardens preserve a sociable side of district life, particularly towards Dornbach and Neuwaldegg. Woodland paths and open spaces around Schwarzenbergpark provide a natural counterpoint to the tram-lined streets, making Hernals a rewarding base for visitors who want neighbourhood Vienna with direct access to the hills.

Best attractions in Hernals

Hernals rewards visitors with a gradual change of scenery rather than a concentrated list of headline sights. Along Hernalser Hauptstraße, tram 43 provides a useful introduction to the district’s shops, cafés and mixed nineteenth- and twentieth-century streetscape. The Kalvarienbergkirche, with its prominent position near the older Hernals centre, is the principal religious attraction, while Elterleinplatz offers a sense of everyday local life rather than monumental Vienna. Further west, Dornbach’s quieter lanes lead towards Neuwaldegg and the green spaces of Schwarzenbergpark, where avenues, lawns and woodland paths create a leisurely escape from the built-up city. Visitors interested in Viennese culture can also explore the district’s connection with Schrammel music and its Heuriger tradition. The appeal is the transition from tram-lined suburb to village-like streets and forest edge, all within the recognised territory of Vienna.

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Best landmarks in Hernals

The Kalvarienbergkirche is Hernals’s most recognisable landmark, a Catholic church whose prominent religious architecture and devotional associations reflect the district’s older village history. Its surroundings retain the memory of a parish centre that predates Hernals’s incorporation into Vienna. Elterleinplatz is less a monumental square than an important local urban space, marking the everyday centre of the district’s transport, shopping and civic life. Hernalser Hauptstraße itself is a significant historic corridor: its linear route, tram infrastructure and mixture of older houses and later apartment buildings reveal how a former village became part of metropolitan Vienna. In the western district, Neuwaldegg Palace and the associated Schwarzenbergpark landscape represent a different kind of heritage, based on estate planning, open land and recreational park design. Together these places express Hernals’s dual identity as an urban district and Wienerwald fringe.

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Explore Hernals on the map

A handpicked selection of must-see spots in Hernals, mapped for you.

Best restaurants in Hernals

Hernals has a practical, locally oriented dining scene rather than a single culinary quarter. Along Hernalser Hauptstraße and around Elterleinplatz, visitors find the kinds of cafés, bakeries, casual restaurants and traditional Austrian establishments that serve an everyday residential district. Towards Dornbach and Neuwaldegg, the atmosphere becomes more associated with garden restaurants, wine taverns and Heuriger, where seasonal local wine and straightforward Viennese dishes are part of the experience. Menus vary by venue, but familiar specialities may include schnitzel, sausages, goulash and seasonal salads, alongside pastries and coffee in café settings. The district’s history as a former village fringe is still evident in the sociable tavern culture, while its modern population brings a broader range of international food to the main streets. Visitors should distinguish established Heuriger customs from ordinary restaurants, as opening patterns and food service can differ considerably.

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Best bars in Hernals

Nightlife in Hernals is generally sociable and neighbourhood-oriented rather than built around large clubs. Traditional pubs, cafés that serve into the evening and local restaurants provide the main options around Hernalser Hauptstraße and the district’s tram corridor, while Heuriger in Dornbach and Neuwaldegg offer a slower evening centred on wine, food and conversation. The area’s cultural identity is also linked to Schrammel music, whose strings-and-accordion sound became associated with Viennese tavern entertainment, although visitors should not assume that every local venue hosts live music. There is no continuous club strip comparable with the central districts, and evenings become quieter towards the residential and wooded western edge. For a broader choice of concert halls, late bars or nightclubs, nearby inner districts are more suitable and can be reached by tram or rail. Respectful volume is important when leaving venues, particularly on residential streets.

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Best nightclubs in Hernals

Nightlife in Hernals is generally sociable and neighbourhood-oriented rather than built around large clubs. Traditional pubs, cafés that serve into the evening and local restaurants provide the main options around Hernalser Hauptstraße and the district’s tram corridor, while Heuriger in Dornbach and Neuwaldegg offer a slower evening centred on wine, food and conversation. The area’s cultural identity is also linked to Schrammel music, whose strings-and-accordion sound became associated with Viennese tavern entertainment, although visitors should not assume that every local venue hosts live music. There is no continuous club strip comparable with the central districts, and evenings become quieter towards the residential and wooded western edge. For a broader choice of concert halls, late bars or nightclubs, nearby inner districts are more suitable and can be reached by tram or rail. Respectful volume is important when leaving venues, particularly on residential streets.

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Best shops in Hernals

Shopping in Hernals is primarily local and practical, concentrated along Hernalser Hauptstraße and around Elterleinplatz rather than organised as a destination retail district. Independent food shops, bakeries, cafés, pharmacies and everyday services reflect the needs of a long-established residential community, while small specialist businesses appear among the larger commercial premises. The main road is useful for buying provisions before a walk towards Dornbach or Neuwaldegg, and traditional food shopping provides more insight into daily district life than souvenir retail. Visitors looking for Austrian wine and regional products should investigate the Heuriger and wine-oriented establishments associated with the western parts of Hernals, where availability follows individual businesses and seasonal rhythms. There is no major permanent tourist market defining the neighbourhood, so shopping here is best understood as an ordinary Viennese urban experience shaped by village remnants, local commerce and the transition towards the Wienerwald.

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Hernals essentials

Getting There
Tram 43 is the most useful arrival route from central Vienna, running through Hernalser Hauptstraße towards Hernals and Dornbach. Hernals railway station, served by the S45, provides a practical connection with Vienna’s western rail corridor and links towards Heiligenstadt and Hütteldorf. Depending on the exact destination, tram 9 and local bus services may also be useful. The U6 stations Michelbeuern-AKH and Alser Straße are outside or close to the district’s eastern side, so check the final walking connection rather than assuming the underground reaches every part of Hernals.
Getting Around
The eastern and central parts of Hernals are straightforward to explore on foot, particularly around Hernalser Hauptstraße, Elterleinplatz and the Kalvarienbergkirche. Tram 43 is the main spine for longer local journeys, while the S45 is useful for reaching the railway station and neighbouring districts. Streets become hillier towards Dornbach and Neuwaldegg, and woodland routes around Schwarzenbergpark can be uneven or muddy after rain. Allow more time for walking in the western section, where urban pavements give way to park paths and forest approaches.
Safety
Hernals is a mixed residential district with ordinary city-centre precautions appropriate for visitors. Keep belongings secure on crowded trams and around transport stops, and take care when crossing Hernalser Hauptstraße, where trams, traffic and pedestrians share a busy corridor. After dark, use well-lit routes and established public transport, particularly when returning from quieter woodland areas. In Heuriger and restaurant settings, respect residents around nearby homes and avoid allowing evening conversation or music to spill into residential streets.
Emergency Situations
Austria’s European emergency number is 112; the police can be reached on 133, the fire service on 122 and ambulance services on 144. Tell the operator that you are in Vienna’s 17th district, Hernals, and give the nearest street address or tram stop. For urgent medical problems, call 144 rather than attempting to navigate unfamiliar streets. Pharmacies display the local emergency-duty information, while non-urgent medical advice should be obtained through established Austrian health services or a hotel, host or travel insurer.
Do's and Don'ts
Keep to the right on shared paths and give way carefully around tram platforms and cycle traffic. In churches such as the Kalvarienbergkirche, dress and behave respectfully, especially during services, and ask before photographing people or ceremonies. At a Heuriger, order considerately and follow the house’s payment and seating customs rather than treating it like a fast café. Do not climb onto monuments, pick plants in parkland or make excessive noise outside taverns late at night, as many attractive streets in Hernals remain residential.
Local Tips
A useful day combines tram travel along Hernalser Hauptstraße with a walk through Dornbach towards Neuwaldegg and Schwarzenbergpark. The district changes character gradually, so look for older village buildings and parish landmarks rather than expecting a single historic centre. For a quieter outing, begin near the western end of tram 43 and follow signed park or Wienerwald paths, wearing suitable shoes. Public transport is generally more practical than a car, particularly on the narrow streets leading towards the forest and popular recreational areas.
Eve, your Evendo local guide

From Eve

Local phrases worth knowing

You don't need to get them perfect. A few words go a long way, and locals appreciate the effort.

6 phrase groups · English, local and pronunciation

Basics
EnglishLocalSay it
HelloServus[ser-voos]
GoodbyeAuf Wiedersehen[owf vee-der-zayn]
YesJa[yah]
NoNein[nine]
Please/You're welcomeBitte[bit-teh]
Thank youDanke[dahn-keh]
Excuse me/SorryEntschuldigung[ent-shool-dee-goong]
How are you?Wie geht es Ihnen?[vee gayt es een-en]
Fine. And you?Gut. Und Ihnen?[goot oont een-en]
Do you speak English?Sprechen Sie Englisch?[shpre-khen zee eng-leesh]
I don't understandIch verstehe nicht[ikh fer-shteh-eh nikht]
Eating & Drinking
EnglishLocalSay it
I'd like to see the menu, pleaseIch möchte die Speisekarte sehen, bitte[ikh merkhte dee shp-eye-zeh-kar-teh zeh-en, bit-teh]
I don't eat meatIch esse kein Fleisch[ikh ess-eh kine fly-sh]
Cheers!Prost![prohst]
I would like to pay, pleaseIch möchte bitte bezahlen[ikh merkhte bit-teh bay-tsah-len]
Emergencies
EnglishLocalSay it
Help!Hilfe![hil-feh]
Go away!Geh weg![geh vehg]
Call the Police!Rufen Sie die Polizei![roo-fen zee dee poh-lee-tsai]
Call a doctor!Rufen Sie einen Arzt![roo-fen zee i-nen ahrts]
I'm lostIch habe mich verirrt[ikh hah-beh meesh feh-reert]
I'm illIch bin krank[ikh been kr-ank]
Shopping
EnglishLocalSay it
I'd like to buy...Ich möchte kaufen...[ikh merkhte kow-fen]
I'm just lookingIch schaue nur[ikh sh-ow-eh noor]
How much is it?Wie viel kostet es?[vee feel koh-stet es]
That's too expensiveDas ist zu teuer[dahs ist tsoo toy-er]
Can you lower the price?Können Sie den Preis senken?[kew-nen zee den prees zehn-ken]
Time & Numbers
EnglishLocalSay it
What time is it?Wie spät ist es?[vee shpeht ist es]
It's one o'clockEs ist ein Uhr[es ist iyn oor]
Half past (10)Halb zehn[halb tsehn]
MorningMorgen[mor-gen]
AfternoonNachmittag[nahkh-mit-tahk]
EveningAbend[ah-bent]
YesterdayGestern[ges-tern]
TodayHeute[hoi-teh]
TomorrowMorgen[mor-gen]
1Eins[iyns]
2Zwei[tsvai]
3Drei[dry]
4Vier[feer]
5Fünf[fuenf]
6Sechs[zeks]
7Sieben[zee-ben]
8Acht[ahkt]
9Neun[noyn]
10Zehn[tsehn]
Transport & Directions
EnglishLocalSay it
Where's a/the...?Wo ist ein/der...?[voh ist iyn/dehr]
What's the address?Was ist die Adresse?[vahs ist dee ah-dreh-seh]
Can you show me (on the map)?Können Sie es mir zeigen (auf der Karte)?[kew-nen zee es meer tsee-gen (ouf dehr kar-teh)]
When's the next (bus)?Wann kommt der nächste (Bus)?[vahn kohmt dehr nekh-steh (boos)]
A ticket (to ....)Eine Fahrkarte (nach ....)[iyn-eh fahr-kar-teh (nahkh ...)]

History of Hernals

Three Villages Before Vienna

Hernals, Dornbach and Neuwaldegg developed as separate settlements outside Vienna’s historic core. Hernals grew along the route now followed by Hernalser Hauptstraße, while Dornbach occupied a more rural position beside the Wienerwald and Neuwaldegg formed around an aristocratic estate. The villages combined farming, vineyards and small-scale craft with links to the expanding city. Their names and differing street patterns still provide clues to this earlier landscape: the main road has an urban, linear character, whereas the western parts retain more spacious plots, villas and woodland approaches.

The Neuwaldegg Estate Landscape

Neuwaldegg’s development was closely connected with its former estate and palace, whose grounds were progressively shaped as a country retreat and landscaped park. The associated parkland, later known as Schwarzenbergpark, helped establish the area’s lasting identity as a recreational fringe between Vienna and the Wienerwald. Rather than becoming a tightly built industrial quarter, Neuwaldegg retained open land and an estate-influenced layout. Its paths, avenues and spacious surroundings continue to distinguish this part of Hernals from the denser streets near the district’s eastern boundary.

Incorporation into Vienna

The three settlements were incorporated into Vienna in 1892, with the new arrangement taking effect in 1892–93 as the city expanded beyond its historic limits. Municipal integration brought more systematic urban infrastructure, denser building and closer transport links with the inner districts. Hernals consequently changed from a group of suburban villages into a recognisable urban district, although the old settlements remained legible in parish centres, irregular side streets and surviving low-rise buildings. The arrival and extension of tram and railway connections reinforced this transformation and supported commuting, commerce and residential growth.

Schrammel Music and Modern Hernals

Hernals is associated with the Schrammel brothers, Johann and Josef, whose music emerged in late nineteenth-century Vienna and became closely identified with popular Viennese entertainment. Their sound—traditionally built around strings and accordion—contributed to the cultural image of wine taverns and informal urban music. During the twentieth century, Hernals continued to develop as a mixed residential and commercial district, with apartment blocks added around older village structures. Today, its identity is shaped by the meeting of everyday urban life, local hospitality, historic religious sites and access to the Wienerwald.

Hernals in Photos

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The closest neighbourhoods to Hernals, if you have time for more than one stop.

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