Selma

Inventive smørrebrød in the heart of Copenhagen

Selma sits on a central corner of Rømersgade, a short stroll from Nørreport Station and the Torvehallerne food halls, yet it feels quietly self-contained. Inside, the space is compact and informal: light Nordic woods, uncluttered tables and big windows that frame the city outside. There is an easy hum of conversation rather than formality, and the focus is clearly on the plates emerging from the open kitchen. The restaurant has become known for its refined take on smørrebrød, Denmark’s beloved open-faced sandwiches. Rather than copying old recipes, the team reworks them with contemporary techniques and a seasonal, produce-led mindset. The result is food that looks as sculpted as it tastes, but still anchored in the deep comfort of rye bread, pickles and cured fish.

A Swedish chef’s twist on Danish tradition

At the helm is Swedish chef Magnus Pettersson, who has had the audacity to reinterpret one of Denmark’s most iconic dishes. His kitchen leans into Nordic flavors—briny herring, buttery potatoes, sharp horseradish, gentle herbs—but arranges them in surprising combinations and refined textures. Classic toppings like salmon, pork, or mature Danish cheeses appear alongside octopus, lamb or inventive vegetable compositions. Each slice of smørrebrød is layered with careful detail: a base of dense rye bread, a central protein or vegetable, then pickles, powders, oils and crunchy garnishes providing contrast. Plates arrive at the table like small still lifes, and there is a sense that you are eating a composed dish rather than a simple sandwich.

From Bib Gourmand menu to casual bites

Selma’s menu is structured to suit different appetites and levels of curiosity. At lunch, you can build your own line-up of smørrebrød, moving from lighter seafood or vegetable-driven options toward richer meat or cheese-based slices. In the evening from Wednesday to Saturday, the kitchen expands into tasting menus that thread the smørrebrød idea through multiple courses, often beginning with snacks and finishing with something sweet. Portions are moderate, encouraging you to try several combinations rather than settling on a single favorite. Bread, pickles and condiments tend to be made in-house, reflecting the Nordic emphasis on preservation and seasonality. The Bib Gourmand recognition signals that, while this is thoughtful cooking, it remains comparatively good value for the city.

Nordic drinks and a relaxed dining rhythm

To drink, Selma leans strongly into the Scandinavian love affair with beer. The taps and bottle list skew toward craft brews, including collaborations and specialties from respected Danish producers. For many, pairing herring or cured fish with a crisp, bitter beer or a chilled schnapps is part of the ritual here. There is also a concise wine list that favors fresh, food-friendly bottles—often from small European growers—with a few natural and low-intervention options. Service is informal but knowledgeable, with staff comfortable explaining both unfamiliar toppings and drink pairings. The overall rhythm encourages you to linger: smørrebrød arrives one or two plates at a time, giving you space to savor each combination before moving on.

Atmosphere, setting and when to come

The room’s scale and design suit couples, solo diners at small tables, and small groups sharing several plates. At lunchtime, sunlight pours in through the windows, and the proximity to the market halls makes it feel very much part of everyday Copenhagen. Evenings bring a slightly softer, more intimate mood as candles appear and the street quiets. Because the restaurant is compact and its reputation solid, tables for peak lunch hours and weekend dinners are best secured in advance. If you do manage to slip in, Selma offers an accessible yet distinctive window into contemporary Danish cooking, where a humble open sandwich becomes a canvas for Nordic creativity.