Søndermarken

From royal hunting ground to public green refuge

Søndermarken stretches along the border between Frederiksberg and Valby, forming a hilly, wooded counterpoint to the more manicured Frederiksberg Gardens across the road. Laid out in the 18th century as a hunting ground for the royal court at Frederiksberg Palace, it was once reserved for kings and their guests roaming on horseback in search of deer and game. That aristocratic past still shapes the park’s bones. Broad, gently curving avenues slice through thickets of old trees, while smaller paths twist off into more intimate corners. Since opening to the public in the mid-19th century, Søndermarken has evolved into a genuine city breathing space, where the traces of royal landscape design meet a looser, more natural character.

A wilder side of Copenhagen’s nature

Unlike many formal European palace parks, Søndermarken leans into a semi-wild look. Long meadow-like grass ripples in the breeze, pockets of undergrowth are left for wild plants, and the canopy is dense enough in places to feel unexpectedly woodland-like. In the quieter corners you may spot or hear owls roosting in mature trunks overhead. The terrain rises and dips more than you might expect in such an urban setting, giving you shifting views as you move: from shady, almost secluded hollows to broad clearings where the sky opens above sweeping lawns. Seasonal changes are particularly striking here, from early spring blossom to autumn’s deep golds and russets.

Cisternerne and stories beneath the surface

Hidden just under the grass, Søndermarken shelters one of Copenhagen’s most atmospheric art venues. Cisternerne occupies vast former water cisterns that once helped secure clean drinking water for the city in the 19th century, a response to health crises of the time. Today, this underground cathedral of concrete pillars, pools and echoing chambers hosts contemporary art exhibitions. Stepping down into the cool, dim reservoir is a sharp contrast to the open park above. Sound carries in unusual ways, light is carefully controlled, and artworks often play with reflections and moisture. Even if you remain on the surface, knowing that this cavernous world lies beneath your feet adds a layer of intrigue to an ordinary stroll.

Everyday life: joggers, families and quiet moments

For locals, Søndermarken is as much a practical backyard as a grand historic landscape. Runners trace regular loops along the wider paths, and dog walkers make use of the more wooded stretches where the setting feels pleasantly away from traffic. Families gravitate towards the playground areas and open lawns, spreading out blankets on sunny days. It is also a popular setting for informal exercise classes, school sports days and open-air cultural events on the grass, yet there is nearly always a quiet corner to be found. Benches tucked under trees and small clearings between shrubs invite you to pause with a book or simply sit and listen to the rustle of leaves and distant city sounds.

Memorials, viewpoints and neighbouring landmarks

Scattered through the park you encounter hints of wider histories. A memorial mound raised by Danish emigrants in the United States pays tribute to transatlantic ties, while statues such as the monument to poet Adam Oehlenschläger connect the landscape to Denmark’s cultural life. From some higher points you can glimpse Frederiksberg Palace and the enclosures of Copenhagen Zoo nearby. Søndermarken’s position makes it an easy companion to other sights. Without ever leaving the green belt, you can thread a day between the palace, Frederiksberg Gardens, the zoo and the subterranean galleries. Yet the park itself rewards lingering, offering enough detail and variety to justify a dedicated visit.

Planning your time in the park

The park is open at all hours, and its unfenced paths make it feel like a seamless part of the surrounding district. A simple circuit to get a feel for the landscape might take under an hour, but adding a visit to Cisternerne, time on the playground, or a leisurely picnic can easily fill half a day. Early mornings and weekday daylight hours tend to be the calmest moments. Surfaces range from compact gravel to grass and occasional steeper slopes, so comfortable shoes are worthwhile. Because it is a true urban park rather than a manicured garden, expect natural ground conditions after rain, from damp lawns to the smell of wet earth rising between the trees.