The Lakes (Søerne), Copenhagen

Water, Light and City Life in One Long Curve

The Lakes form a striking blue ribbon between Copenhagen’s historic centre and the neighborhoods of Vesterbro, Nørrebro and Østerbro. Three elongated basins – Sankt Jørgens Sø to the south, Peblinge Sø in the middle and Sortedams Sø to the north – trace a gentle arc that reflects church spires, townhouses and the city’s soft northern light. From almost any point, your eye runs along the water to low bridges and lines of trees, giving a sense of openness rare in such a compact capital. Although they look like natural lakes, this is a carefully shaped landscape. The basins were created and expanded over centuries as part of the city’s defenses and water supply, with dams and embankments gradually taming the original marshy terrain. Today their defensive role is long gone, replaced by a gentler function: a linear park where the city catches its breath.

From Fortress Moat to Urban Playground

Historically, the water here helped protect Copenhagen’s ramparts and powered mills at the city edge. Later the lakes became reservoirs, controlling levels with dams such as the one that shaped Peblinge Sø. As the city outgrew its fortifications in the 19th century, the banks were formalized, planted with trees and edged in granite, turning a utilitarian system into a grand promenade. Two small artificial islands, Fiskeøen and Fugleøen, dot Sortedams Sø, created as safe breeding grounds for birds. In winter, when conditions are right and the ice is officially declared thick enough, the lakes can transform into broad, white surfaces for cold-weather walks. In summer, the water comes alive with birdlife and the occasional slow-moving boat bike, while the paths host runners, cyclists and parents pushing prams.

Experiencing the Full 6.3-Kilometre Circuit

A complete loop around all three lakes runs for just over 6 kilometres, almost entirely on level, well-maintained gravel and pavement paths. It is a favourite circuit for joggers, but it works equally well as a leisurely stroll broken up with coffee stops and photo breaks. Benches, low walls and grassy patches appear at regular intervals, inviting you to pause, dangle your feet over the edge and watch swans, geese and ducks trace their own routes across the water. Each section has its own character. Sankt Jørgens Sø feels slightly quieter, with wider expanses of water and views towards modern city landmarks. Peblinge Sø is tightly framed by avenues of trees and elegant façades, its straight lines ideal for long, reflective walks. Sortedams Sø, with its islands and slightly more irregular outline, offers some of the most photogenic vistas, especially where bridges and towers line up in the distance.

Cafés, Pavilions and Everyday Copenhagen Rituals

Part of the charm of The Lakes lies in how thoroughly they are woven into local daily life. On any given morning you may see commuters on bikes skirting the water, dog walkers tracing the same route in all seasons, and friends meeting on the banks with takeaway coffee. Along several stretches you will find lakeside cafés, modern restaurants and classic pavilions whose terraces fill whenever the sun appears, their tables positioned to catch both the light and the view. These buildings tell their own stories: 19th-century pavilions once linked to skating clubs or rowing now house contemporary dining rooms or bars, while newer venues slide glass fronts open to blend indoors and outdoors. Yet there is no single focal point or monument; the attraction is the continuous, lived-in edge between city and water.

Seasonal Moods and Practical Details

The atmosphere around The Lakes shifts with the seasons and weather. On bright spring mornings, fresh leaves frame clear reflections, and bird calls carry over the paths. High summer brings long evenings when the sun lingers low over the water and the embankments turn into informal picnic terraces. Autumn paints the trees in warm tones that ripple across the surface, and even in winter, mist and low cloud create a quiet, cinematic quality. As an open public space, The Lakes are accessible at all hours and free to enjoy. The terrain is mostly flat and suitable for prams and wheelchairs along the main paths, with frequent opportunities to sit. Simple amenities such as occasional public restrooms, nearby kiosks and plentiful trash bins support lingering, while the surrounding streets offer quick access to supermarkets, bakeries and restaurants. For many visitors, tracing even a short stretch of shoreline becomes a reference point for understanding Copenhagen’s scale, rhythm and relationship with water.