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Eastern Highlands
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Explore Jordan’s Eastern Highlands for Amman’s ancient hills, Madaba’s mosaics, Salt’s Ottoman heritage and wide limestone plateaux.

Jordan’s Eastern Highlands are best understood as the elevated inland belt running across the country’s central plateau, rather than as a sharply defined administrative region. This interpretation encompasses the urban core around Amman, the basalt and limestone uplands towards Zarqa, the historic towns of Salt and Madaba, and the semi-arid countryside extending eastwards before the terrain falls into Jordan’s desert. The landscape is not uniformly mountainous: rolling limestone hills, broad plateaux, dry valleys and built-up ridges alternate across a region where altitude brings cooler evenings than the Jordan Valley and a noticeably more temperate climate in winter.
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Amman is the principal gateway and the region’s largest centre, spread across a succession of hills around its ancient Citadel and Roman Theatre. Its layered urban character is central to understanding modern Jordan: locally quarried limestone buildings, busy commercial streets, Ottoman-era traces and contemporary cafés stand beside monuments from the Bronze Age, Roman, Byzantine and early Islamic periods. West of the capital, Al-Salt occupies steep hills and ravines, with honey-coloured Ottoman houses and former merchant residences reflecting its role as a regional trading town. The city’s historic centre offers a more intimate architectural experience than Amman and reveals the connections between the plateau’s agricultural villages and wider commercial networks.
South-west of Amman, Madaba is associated with some of Jordan’s most important Byzantine and early Christian heritage. Its churches and archaeological remains preserve mosaic floors made by skilled local workshops, while nearby Mount Nebo provides broad views across the Jordan Valley and, on clear days, towards the hills beyond. The area around Madaba also contains Umm ar-Rasas, an archaeological site with churches, defensive remains and important mosaics. These places belong to a wider cultural landscape rather than isolated monuments: agriculture, pilgrimage, stone building and religious communities have shaped the plateau for centuries.
The Eastern Highlands also reward travellers who look beyond formal heritage sites. Roads across the plateau pass through wheat-growing country, dry grazing lands and villages where small shops, bakeries and family restaurants provide a more everyday view of Jordan than the principal archaeological attractions. Food combines national staples with regional produce: flatbreads, hummus, olives, yoghurt, grilled meats, legumes and sweet dishes are common, while Madaba and the surrounding countryside offer opportunities to encounter home-style cooking and local agricultural products. Walking is most rewarding in historic town centres, among Amman’s hills and around selected archaeological sites, although summer heat and exposed terrain require sensible planning.
The region’s contrasts are its defining quality. Amman is dense, cosmopolitan and constantly changing; Salt preserves the scale of a historic hillside trading town; Madaba provides a focus for Christian heritage and mosaic art; and the eastern plateau becomes increasingly open and sparse towards the desert margin. Visitors should allow time for these changes in landscape and settlement, rather than treating the highlands as a collection of disconnected stops. The region offers a concentrated introduction to Jordan’s urban life, archaeological depth, religious history and plateau environment within a relatively accessible part of the country.

When is the best time to visit Eastern Highlands?

Best: May–June, September · 24–29°C
Average daytime high and rainfall by month
MonthHigh (°C)Rainfall (mm)
January871
February960
March1455
April1945
May (best)2436
June (best)2925
July3221
August3225
September (best)2731
October2041
November1250
December760

Getting to and around Eastern Highlands

How to get there

Queen Alia International Airport lies south of Amman and outside the main built-up highland area, but it is the principal international gateway for the region. Airport taxis and pre-arranged transfers connect it with Amman, Madaba and other central plateau destinations. Amman is also reached by long-distance road services from Aqaba, the north and the Dead Sea area. Jordan’s main railway is not a practical passenger service for ordinary travel to the highlands, so most visitors arrive by road. Salt, Madaba and smaller sites are commonly reached from Amman by taxi, hired car or organised day tour.

Transportation

Amman has the region’s broadest choice of taxis, bus services and app-based or pre-booked car transport, while travel between smaller highland towns can be less straightforward. A hired car is useful for combining Madaba, Mount Nebo, Umm ar-Rasas and rural sites, but driving in Amman requires patience because of steep roads, dense traffic, one-way systems and variable parking. Local buses and shared taxis can be economical, although routes and departure arrangements may be less intuitive for international visitors. Walking works well in selected historic districts but is demanding across Amman’s hills and in the summer heat.

Top city travel guides in Eastern Highlands

The cities of Eastern Highlands, and the easiest places to base yourself.

Destinations in Eastern Highlands

Resorts, valleys and scenic spots worth a trip of their own.

Best attractions in Eastern Highlands

The Eastern Highlands offer a dense combination of archaeological, religious, urban and rural attractions. Amman’s Citadel and Roman Theatre provide the clearest introduction to the region’s ancient urban history, while museums and old commercial quarters add context to the capital’s modern development. In the west, Salt is valued for its historic hillside streets, former merchant houses and Ottoman-era architecture. Madaba is the principal centre for Byzantine mosaic heritage, with churches and archaeological remains that reward careful visits rather than hurried sightseeing. Mount Nebo combines religious significance with open views across the Jordan Valley, while Umm ar-Rasas presents a more remote archaeological landscape of churches, towers and mosaic floors. Iraq al-Amir adds a Hellenistic monument amid a rural valley, and the plateau’s villages, farms and dry hills provide opportunities for short walks and scenic drives. Facilities vary considerably: major urban sites are easier to access, whereas rural ruins may have little shade, few services and limited public transport. The attraction landscape is therefore defined by contrasts between city archaeology, protected religious heritage, historic townscapes and wide semi-arid countryside.

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Best landmarks in Eastern Highlands

Amman’s Citadel is the region’s most recognisable landmark, occupying a hilltop that has been reused from the Ammonite period through the classical and Islamic eras. Its surviving Temple of Hercules, Umayyad Palace complex and later structures express the capital’s layered history, while the Roman Theatre below remains a powerful feature of the city centre. In Salt, the closely packed limestone houses and steep historic streets form an architectural landmark in their own right, reflecting the town’s late Ottoman commercial prosperity. Madaba’s Church of St George is internationally associated with the sixth-century mosaic map of the Holy Land, one of the most important surviving cartographic mosaics from the Byzantine world. Mount Nebo is both a religious landmark and a geographical viewpoint, its ridge looking across the Jordan Valley. Further south-east, Umm ar-Rasas is marked by its fortified archaeological remains, churches and mosaic pavements, while Qasr al-Abd at Iraq al-Amir stands as an unusual Hellenistic monument in a cultivated valley. Together these places give the plateau a recognisable visual identity shaped by limestone, hilltop settlement and long religious history.

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Best restaurants in Eastern Highlands

Dining in the Eastern Highlands ranges from busy Amman restaurants and coffee houses to family-run establishments in Madaba, Salt and smaller plateau towns. Jordanian staples such as hummus, falafel, mouttabal, grilled meats, rice dishes, stuffed vegetables and flatbreads are widely available, while mansaf remains the country’s best-known celebratory dish: lamb served with rice and a fermented yoghurt sauce. Olive oil, olives, yoghurt, pulses and seasonal vegetables reflect the agricultural character of the highlands. Madaba and surrounding villages are useful places to encounter home-style cooking and Christian community traditions, although menus vary by establishment. Amman provides the broadest choice, including Levantine, international and contemporary Jordanian food, as well as bakeries, cafés and specialist sweet shops. In Salt, traditional foods and local hospitality are part of the historic town experience. Outside the main centres, restaurants may close earlier or offer a limited menu, so carry water and plan meals when visiting archaeological sites. Alcohol is available only in appropriate licensed venues and is not a feature of ordinary local dining.

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Best bars in Eastern Highlands

Nightlife is concentrated in Amman, where cafés, restaurants, hotel lounges, live-music venues and licensed bars provide the region’s widest range of evening options. Different parts of the capital have distinct atmospheres, from busy central coffee houses and traditional eateries to more contemporary dining areas in western districts. Nightclubs exist but are not the defining feature of the Eastern Highlands, and venues, events and opening arrangements can change. Madaba has a quieter evening scene centred on cafés, restaurants and accommodation used by visitors exploring its religious and archaeological heritage. Salt and rural plateau towns generally favour family restaurants, tea and coffee houses, and social gatherings rather than late-night entertainment. Alcohol is served in selected licensed hotels, restaurants and bars, not universally, and visitors should follow venue rules and local sensitivities. During religious periods, including Ramadan, opening patterns and the character of evening activity may change substantially, with many places becoming busier after sunset.

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Best nightclubs in Eastern Highlands

Nightlife is concentrated in Amman, where cafés, restaurants, hotel lounges, live-music venues and licensed bars provide the region’s widest range of evening options. Different parts of the capital have distinct atmospheres, from busy central coffee houses and traditional eateries to more contemporary dining areas in western districts. Nightclubs exist but are not the defining feature of the Eastern Highlands, and venues, events and opening arrangements can change. Madaba has a quieter evening scene centred on cafés, restaurants and accommodation used by visitors exploring its religious and archaeological heritage. Salt and rural plateau towns generally favour family restaurants, tea and coffee houses, and social gatherings rather than late-night entertainment. Alcohol is served in selected licensed hotels, restaurants and bars, not universally, and visitors should follow venue rules and local sensitivities. During religious periods, including Ramadan, opening patterns and the character of evening activity may change substantially, with many places becoming busier after sunset.

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Best shops in Eastern Highlands

Shopping in the Eastern Highlands is strongest in Amman, where central souqs, traditional food shops, bookshops, bakeries, craft retailers and modern commercial areas serve different parts of the city. Visitors can look for olive oil, dates, spices, soap, coffee, embroidered textiles, ceramics and Jordanian sweets, but quality and pricing vary, so comparing products is sensible. Madaba’s small shops cater to visitors interested in mosaics, religious souvenirs, handmade goods and local food products; choose carefully where an item is labelled handmade, as not every mosaic-style product is locally made. Salt is better suited to browsing independent shops, food businesses and craft outlets around its historic centre than to large-scale retail. Farmers’ stalls and small grocers on the plateau offer seasonal produce, olives and preserved foods, although availability follows local harvests. Amman has the region’s broadest selection of fashion, jewellery and contemporary design, while rural areas have fewer dedicated shopping facilities. Bargaining may be acceptable in some informal markets, but fixed prices are common in established shops.

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Eastern Highlands essentials

Currency and Payment
The currency is the Jordanian dinar, coded JOD. Hotels, established restaurants, larger shops and many visitor-oriented businesses in Amman and Madaba generally accept international cards and contactless payments, although acceptance is not universal. Carry Jordanian dinar cash for taxis, small cafés, markets, local buses, rural shops and modest admission points. ATMs are most readily available in larger towns and commercial districts; visitors travelling towards smaller settlements or archaeological areas should obtain cash beforehand. Prices may be quoted in dinars, and change for larger notes is not always readily available.
Safety
The central highlands are established visitor areas, but normal precautions remain appropriate in crowded markets, transport hubs and busy city streets. Traffic presents a more significant everyday concern than most minor crime: cross roads carefully, expect variable driving standards and take care on steep or poorly lit streets. At archaeological sites and in open countryside, heat, dehydration, loose stone and limited shade are practical hazards. Winter rain can cause flash flooding in valleys and low-lying roads, while dust, glare and reduced visibility can affect rural driving. Check current local advice before travelling near demonstrations or politically sensitive sites.
Emergency Situations
Jordan’s general emergency number is 911, which can be used for police, fire and ambulance assistance. Ask hotel staff, accommodation hosts or a local contact for help explaining the precise location, especially outside Amman where street addressing may be less obvious. For serious medical problems, use established medical services in the larger towns and seek assistance promptly rather than relying on remote-site facilities. If driving, keep a charged phone, water and basic navigation available. During heavy rain, do not attempt to cross flooded roads or wadis, even when the water appears shallow.
Do's and Don'ts
Dress modestly when visiting mosques, churches, family-oriented neighbourhoods and rural communities, with shoulders and knees covered where local expectations require it. Remove shoes when asked in religious or domestic spaces, ask permission before photographing people and avoid photographing security installations or officials. Bargaining is common in some markets but should remain courteous and proportionate. Public displays of affection should be restrained, and alcohol should be consumed only in licensed venues. At ruins, churches and mosaic sites, do not climb on structures, touch fragile surfaces or remove stones; respect both Muslim and Christian places of worship.
Local Tips
Amman’s hills create major differences between neighbouring districts, so order an itinerary by area rather than crossing the city repeatedly. Madaba and Mount Nebo can be combined geographically, while Umm ar-Rasas requires a longer excursion and limited facilities. Salt is best approached as a walking visit through its historic centre, with time for steep streets and viewpoints. Winter can bring cold rain on the plateau despite Jordan’s generally dry reputation, whereas summer afternoons are intensely hot. In smaller towns, a few basic Arabic words, patience with informal directions and cash in small denominations are particularly useful.
Eve, your Evendo local guide

From Eve

Local phrases worth knowing

You don't need to get them perfect. A few words go a long way, and locals appreciate the effort.

6 phrase groups · English, local and pronunciation

Basics
EnglishLocalSay it
HelloHi[Hai]
GoodbyeSee ya[See ya]
YesYep[Yep]
NoNah[Nah]
Please/You're welcomeSure thing[Shur thing]
Thank youThanks[Thangs]
Excuse me/SorrySorry[Sorry]
How are you?How's it going?[How's it goin'?]
Fine. And you?Good. You?[Good. You?]
Do you speak English?Can you speak English?[Can you speak English?]
I don't understandI don’t get it[I don’t get it]
Eating & Drinking
EnglishLocalSay it
I'd like to see the menu, pleaseCan I see the menu?[Can I see the menu?]
I don't eat meatI'm a vegetarian[I'm a vegetarian]
Cheers!Cheers![Cheers!]
I would like to pay, pleaseCan I get the check?[Can I get the check?]
Emergencies
EnglishLocalSay it
Help!Help![Help!]
Go away!Leave me alone![Leave me alone!]
Call the Police!Call the cops![Call the cops!]
Call a doctor!Get a doctor![Get a doctor!]
I'm lostI'm lost[I'm lost]
I'm illI'm not feeling well[I'm not feeling well]
Shopping
EnglishLocalSay it
I'd like to buy...I want to buy...[I want to buy...]
I'm just lookingJust browsing[Just browsing]
How much is it?What’s the price?[What’s the price?]
That's too expensiveThat's a bit pricey[That's a bit pricey]
Can you lower the price?Can you give me a better price?[Can you give me a better price?]
Time & Numbers
EnglishLocalSay it
What time is it?What time is it?[What time is it?]
It's one o'clockIt's one o'clock[It's one o'clock]
Half past (10)Half past ten[Half past ten]
MorningMorning[Morning]
AfternoonAfternoon[Afternoon]
EveningEvening[Evening]
YesterdayYesterday[Yesterday]
TodayToday[Today]
TomorrowTomorrow[Tomorrow]
1One[One]
2Two[Two]
3Three[Three]
4Four[Four]
5Five[Five]
6Six[Six]
7Seven[Seven]
8Eight[Eight]
9Nine[Nine]
10Ten[Ten]
Transport & Directions
EnglishLocalSay it
Where's a/the...?Where's the...?[Where's the...?]
What's the address?What's the address?[What's the address?]
Can you show me (on the map)?Can you point it out on the map?[Can you point it out on the map?]
When's the next (bus)?When's the next bus?[When's the next bus?]
A ticket (to ....)A ticket to ...[A ticket to ...]

History of Eastern Highlands

Neolithic Ain Ghazal and Early Settlement

The plateau around modern Amman was settled long before the emergence of the classical cities. Ain Ghazal, on the capital’s eastern side, was one of the largest known Neolithic settlements in the Near East and was occupied from the eighth millennium BC. Archaeologists have found substantial structures, tools, evidence of farming and the famous plaster statues modelled in human form. The site demonstrates that communities in the central Jordanian highlands had developed complex social and ritual practices thousands of years ago. Although much of Ain Ghazal is not presented as a conventional open-air visitor attraction, its discoveries are fundamental to understanding the region’s early history.

Ammonite Rabbath-Ammon and the Classical City

The hill later known as Amman’s Citadel formed the centre of Rabbath-Ammon, the capital of the Ammonites, whose kingdom occupied parts of the central Jordanian plateau during the Iron Age. The settlement stood on important routes linking the inland highlands with the Levant and Arabian regions. Hellenistic and Roman rule subsequently transformed the city, which became known as Philadelphia. Temples, civic buildings, streets and the theatre reflected the urban culture of the classical eastern Mediterranean. The surviving Roman Theatre and Citadel remains show how successive powers adapted the same strategic hill rather than abandoning it.

Hellenistic Iraq al-Amir

West of Amman, the valley of Iraq al-Amir preserves the remains of Qasr al-Abd, a substantial Hellenistic monument generally associated with the powerful Tobiads in the second century BC. Its position among farmland and rocky hills illustrates the way elite estates combined agriculture, water management and monumental architecture. The structure’s name means ‘Castle of the Servant’, although its original function and appearance have been reconstructed through archaeological study rather than preserved intact. Iraq al-Amir is important because it reveals the political and economic networks of the highlands during the period between Alexander’s successors and the rise of Roman power.

The Byzantine Christian Landscape

From the fourth to the seventh centuries AD, the central Jordanian plateau became a productive Christian landscape of towns, villages, churches and monasteries. Madaba was a prominent ecclesiastical centre, and workshops in the area produced elaborate mosaic pavements depicting geometric designs, plants, animals and biblical scenes. The Madaba Map, a sixth-century mosaic map of the Holy Land preserved in the city’s Greek Orthodox Church of St George, is the best-known example. Umm ar-Rasas, further south-east, preserves another important cluster of churches and mosaics. These remains reflect both religious patronage and the prosperity of agricultural communities.

Early Islamic Rule and the Desert Routes

The Islamic conquest in the seventh century brought the plateau into the caliphates that succeeded Byzantine rule. Settlement patterns and political centres changed, but roads, farms and towns continued to connect the highlands with the desert and the wider Levant. The Umayyad period is represented most famously by desert estates and caravan infrastructure elsewhere in eastern Jordan, while central highland towns retained older religious and agricultural landscapes. Over later centuries, Abbasid, Mamluk and Ottoman administrations governed the region through changing combinations of urban authority, local landholders and tribal relationships. The plateau’s position between settled country and desert remained historically significant.

Ottoman Amman, Salt and the Modern Plateau

Under Ottoman rule, Salt developed as an important commercial town linking the Jordanian plateau with Palestine and the Jordan Valley. Its prosperity in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries produced substantial limestone houses, often built by merchants whose business networks crossed regional boundaries. Amman, by contrast, was a smaller settlement until the late Ottoman period, when the Hejaz Railway and wider political changes encouraged renewed growth. After the establishment of the Emirate of Transjordan in 1921, Amman became the political centre and expanded rapidly. Modern roads, migration and state institutions transformed the highlands into Jordan’s principal urban and administrative region.

Contemporary Urban and Cultural Transformation

Since the twentieth century, Amman and the surrounding plateau have experienced swift population growth, shaped by economic migration, regional displacement and the concentration of government, education and commerce in the capital. New neighbourhoods spread across the hills while older districts retained markets, workshops, religious buildings and traditional food businesses. Madaba and Salt developed distinct identities as heritage and regional service centres, while roads connected the central plateau more closely with the rest of Jordan. Contemporary life in the Eastern Highlands therefore combines ancient archaeological settings with dense urban development, changing suburbs and an increasingly diverse cultural scene.

Eastern Highlands in Photos

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Evendo: Your Ultimate Travel Guide to Eastern Highlands, Jordan

Discover Eastern Highlands with Evendo, a 100% free app-based travel guide offering detailed information on attractions, landmarks, restaurants, hotels, and more.

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