St Mary's Church, Rotherhithe

A Church by the River

St Mary’s Church, Rotherhithe, stands on the south bank of the Thames in a quiet street just steps from the water’s edge. Its simple, rectangular Georgian brick form, with white stone dressings and large clear windows, reflects the practical elegance of early 18th-century church architecture. Designed by John James, an associate of Sir Christopher Wren, the current building replaced a medieval church that had stood on the same site since at least 1282. Raised above the surrounding low-lying ground, the church was rebuilt to escape frequent flooding from the nearby river, and visitors still climb several steps to enter. The distinctive square tower and slender spire, completed in the mid-18th century, remain a local landmark, visible from the riverside and protected so that mariners can still see the clock face from the water.

Layers of History

The site’s history stretches back far beyond the current church. Roman bricks found during 19th- and 20th-century works suggest that some form of building has stood here for nearly two millennia, possibly a Roman structure or early Christian place of worship. The medieval church, which served the riverside community for centuries, left fragments in the present building: chalk and flint walls in the crypt, and old stone blocks incorporated into the walls near the organ. A 1623 drawing of the old church is the only surviving image of its appearance, preserving a glimpse of a building that once overlooked the bustling Thames. When the medieval church became dangerously dilapidated, the parishioners of Rotherhithe raised funds themselves to rebuild, creating the church that stands today.

Maritime and Mayflower Connections

St Mary’s is closely tied to Britain’s maritime past, particularly the story of the Mayflower and the Pilgrim Fathers. Captain Christopher Jones, master of the Mayflower, is buried in the churchyard; he died in Rotherhithe in 1622 after returning from the historic voyage to North America. Three of the ship’s four owners—Jones, Richard Gardener and John Moore—are also buried here, and Gardener and John Clarke, the ship’s second in command, were married at St Mary’s. A modern memorial in the churchyard commemorates the Mayflower’s links to Rotherhithe, where the ship was later broken up after its final voyage. These connections make the church a quiet but powerful place for those interested in early transatlantic history and the lives of those who shaped it.

Inside the Church

The interior of St Mary’s has been shaped by centuries of use and restoration. Originally built to seat about 1,000 people, with galleries, box pews and a large three-decker pulpit, it was thoroughly reordered in 1876 by William Butterfield in the spirit of the Oxford Movement. The present layout features a barrel-vaulted plaster ceiling, dark wooden pews, and a chancel with richly carved furnishings. The four massive pillars supporting the roof are not stone, but old ship’s masts covered in plaster—a subtle nod to the church’s dockside setting. Above the altar, the east window holds 16th-century German stained glass depicting the Assumption of Our Lady, said to have arrived in Rotherhithe during the Napoleonic Wars. The church also houses a fine 1764 organ by John Byfield, whose tonal qualities have been carefully preserved.

Life of a Living Church

St Mary’s remains an active Anglican parish church, serving the local community of Rotherhithe. Regular services, concerts and community events take place within its walls, and the churchyard continues to be a place of quiet reflection and remembrance. The churchyard itself is historically significant: an additional burial ground was created across the road in 1821, and the watchhouse that once guarded it still stands nearby, one of the few such structures remaining in inner London. Today, visitors are welcome to explore the church and churchyard, to admire its architecture, to trace its maritime links, and to experience the peaceful atmosphere of a riverside church that has stood as a spiritual and communal anchor for centuries.