Ribersborgs open-air bath (Ribersborgs Kallbadhus)

A wooden retreat above the Öresund

Ribersborgs open-air bath stretches out from Malmö’s city shoreline on a 170-metre wooden pier, ending in a pastel-green bathhouse that seems to float above the Öresund. Originally opened in 1898 using salvaged timber from an older port bath, it was conceived as a place where sea, fresh air and simple architecture could work together as everyday therapy. Today its clapboard façades, latticed railings and gently curving rooflines preserve the feel of a 19th-century seaside resort, even as modern Malmö hums in the background. From the pier you look out across a broad sweep of shallow beach and sea, with the white curve of the Turning Torso to one side and, on clear days, the outline of Copenhagen on the horizon. In stormier weather waves slap the stilts and wind whistles through the boards, underlining that this is a bathhouse built to live with the elements, not shut them out.

From storm-battered bathhouse to listed landmark

The bathhouse’s story is one of persistence. Just four years after it opened, a fierce Christmas storm tore through the structure and forced a complete rebuild, during which a diving tower was added to the men’s side. Later, in the 1930s, changing ideas about health and modesty brought in formal nude bathing and clearer partitions between sections. Ownership eventually passed to the City of Malmö, which continued to repair storm damage, including another major hit in the late 1980s. In 1995 the complex was declared a listed historic building, protecting its characteristic wooden architecture and pier layout. Subsequent refurbishments have focused on careful restoration: reinforcing the stilts, renewing decking and adding sundecks and landward jetties without losing the original proportions. The result is a rare survivor of turn-of-the-century bathing culture that still functions much as it did over a century ago.

The ritual of heat, cold and calm

A visit here revolves around a simple but addictive rhythm: heat up in a sauna, plunge into cold seawater, then rest in the open air. Separate men’s and women’s sections each have saunas and their own sheltered sea pools with ladders and platforms. Between them sits a mixed sauna, allowing shared experiences while the bathing areas remain divided. In winter, steam billows from the doors as bathers pad out to cut-throughs in the ice-cold water; in summer, the jetties echo with splashes and low conversation. Wood-fired hot tubs, warm-water pools and massage rooms add a spa-like layer to this otherwise pared-back ritual. Many people build their visit around several cycles of sauna and swim, punctuated by quiet time on the wooden benches, wrapped in a towel, watching the light change over the water.

Saunas, sun decks and sea views

Inside, the saunas range from dry heat to more humid rooms, some with large windows framing the Sound and the silhouette of the Öresund Bridge. The temperature and atmosphere vary: some spaces are designated for silence and contemplation, others allow gentle conversation. Regular Aufguss sessions introduce scented steam and guided heat waves that make the experience more intense. Outside, broad sun decks catch the afternoon light and are popular for reading, napping or simply lying back between dips. The positioning of windbreaks and railings creates pockets of shelter even on blustery days. On the landward side, a café and restaurant serve meals, snacks and drinks, turning a bath into an unhurried half-day of lingering over coffee or a long lunch.

An inclusive slice of Malmö life

Although steeped in tradition, Ribersborgs Kallbadhus has also become a symbol of Malmö’s inclusive character. On designated mix days such as Queer Kallis, the usual division between women’s and men’s areas is set aside so that everyone, including non-binary and trans guests, can bathe without negotiating gendered spaces. Regulars span generations, from elderly locals following long-established routines to younger visitors discovering cold-water swimming for the first time. Season by season, the mood shifts: crisp winter air and icy water for those chasing endorphins; bright, social summer evenings when the sun lingers late over the Sound. Whatever the weather, the essence remains the same: wooden walkways, salt on your skin and the feeling of stepping briefly out of everyday life onto a pier suspended between city and sea.