Sortehusene – The Black Houses of Stige Ø
Historic black houses preserving working-class resilience on Odense's waterfront.
A Community Born from Necessity
Sortehusene emerged in the early 1900s as an unconventional solution to housing shortage. The collection of approximately 30 small dwellings was constructed entirely from salvaged materials—wood, tar paper, and other recycled components—by residents seeking affordable shelter on the southern coast of Stige Ø. Despite lacking official municipal approval, Odense Kommune imposed a symbolic annual rent of 2 kroner per house, acknowledging the structures' existence while maintaining a degree of administrative distance. The name Sortehusene, meaning "the black houses," derives from the tar paper covering that gave the buildings their distinctive dark appearance, though they were also historically known as Skyttehusene or Skydehusene.Life in Primitive Conditions
From 1945 until the area's sanitation in 1967, Sortehusene functioned as year-round housing for its most vulnerable residents. Living conditions were extraordinarily harsh: the houses contained no electricity, no indoor plumbing, and no toilets. Winter populations fluctuated dramatically—in 1956, local newspaper Fyens Stiftstidende estimated that 5 to 6 families occupied the houses during summer months, but only 3 permanent residents remained through the winter. The community survived through manual labor at nearby shipyards, fishing in the fjord, and harvesting mussel shells from the seabed, which were processed at local shell-works for use as poultry feed and industrial materials. This shell-gathering industry remained viable until the 1970s, when depleted resources forced the final shell-workers to abandon the trade.Transformation and Preservation
In 1966, Odense Municipality prohibited year-round habitation, effectively ending the settlement's original purpose. The area subsequently underwent dramatic transformation: from 1965 to 1994, Stige Ø served as the city's primary landfill, creating an environmental burden on the surrounding fjord ecosystem. Following recognition of this ecological damage, a comprehensive remediation project between 1994 and 2005 converted the former dumping ground into a recreational green space. Today, approximately half of the original houses survive and have been repurposed as holiday cottages, preserving this remarkable historical settlement. The remaining structures stand as tangible reminders of a working-class community that operated on the margins of urban society, drawing comparison to Copenhagen's famous Christiania district. Visitors can observe the authentic architectural character of these hand-built homes while walking the scenic trails of Stige Ø, which now functions as a nature reserve and popular destination for birdwatching and landscape appreciation.The Broader Landscape and Natural Recovery
Sortehusene exists within the larger context of Stige Ø's ecological and recreational renaissance. The island's northern section, Stige Ø Nord, was artificially created during the excavation of Odense Canal between 1797 and 1804, with dredged material forming new land. Today, this area supports extensive salt marshes, flowering meadows rich in beach asters, and a 12-hectare lake that has become one of Funen's most visited birdwatching locations. Visitors may observe swimming ducks, including pintails and shovelers, as well as hares and roe deer during early morning visits. The landscape's recovery from industrial use to thriving natural habitat demonstrates the potential for environmental restoration, making Sortehusene not merely a historical curiosity but part of a broader narrative of urban renewal and ecological healing.Local tips
- Visit during spring or early summer to experience the salt marshes in full bloom and observe migratory bird species at their peak activity.
- Combine your visit with a walk along the scenic Stige Ø trail system to appreciate the island's transformation from landfill to nature reserve and enjoy views toward Lindø Shipyard.
- Bring binoculars for birdwatching, particularly around the 12-hectare lake on Stige Ø Nord, one of Funen's premier locations for observing waterfowl and wading birds.
- Plan an early morning visit to maximize chances of spotting wildlife such as hares and roe deer that graze the marshland areas.
A brief summary to Sortehusene
- Østre Kanalvej 1, Odense Municipality, Odense C, 5000, DK
Getting There
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Bicycle from Odense City Centre
Rent a bicycle in central Odense and cycle approximately 4–5 kilometres via the Odense Canal towpath to reach Sortehusene. The route follows dedicated cycling infrastructure along the canal, taking 15–25 minutes depending on pace. This is the most popular and practical option for visitors, offering scenic views of the waterfront. Bicycle rentals are widely available throughout Odense city centre.
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Public Bus from Odense Station
Take local bus services from Odense Central Station or city centre stops toward Stige Ø. Journey time is approximately 20–30 minutes depending on route and stops. Bus frequency varies seasonally; check Midtrafik timetables for current schedules. Single journey tickets cost approximately 24–36 DKK. This option suits visitors without bicycles, though walking from the bus stop to Sortehusene may require 10–15 minutes on local paths.
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Car with Parking
Drive from Odense city centre via Østre Kanalvej, which provides direct access to Stige Ø. Parking is available at designated areas near the entrance to Stige Ø, typically free or low-cost. Journey time from the city centre is approximately 10–15 minutes. Note that the final approach to Sortehusene itself involves walking along island paths; vehicles cannot access the houses directly.
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Walking from Stige Ø Entrance
If arriving by car or bus at the main Stige Ø entrance, walk along the marked trail system toward the southern coast where Sortehusene is located. The walk takes approximately 20–30 minutes depending on your exact starting point and pace. Trails are generally well-maintained and suitable for most fitness levels, though the terrain includes some gentle slopes from the island's former landfill topography.