Old Tbilisi (Tbilisi) Travel Guide - Free

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Old Tbilisi
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Old Tbilisi in Georgia pairs sulphur baths, hillside churches, balconies, wine bars and winding lanes with the layered history of the capital’s old centre.

Streets Shaped by the River

Old Tbilisi occupies the historic core of Georgia’s capital, where the Mtkvari River bends beneath the slopes of Narikala Fortress. The name describes a broad, layered urban area rather than a single sharply bounded quarter, generally encompassing the old streets around Kala, Abanotubani and the lower Sololaki slopes. Its lanes rise and dip between brick courtyards, carved wooden balconies, churches, bathhouses and remnants of the city’s defensive walls.
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Bathhouses, Churches and Courtyards

The most concentrated historic atmosphere lies around Abanotubani, whose domed sulphur bathhouses recall Tbilisi’s long association with geothermal springs. Nearby, Meidan opens towards Sioni Cathedral and the narrow lanes of Kala, while Anchiskhati Basilica stands among some of the city’s oldest surviving ecclesiastical fabric. Above the rooftops, Narikala provides a monumental presence and broad views across the river, while the Tbilisi Botanical Garden extends along the gorge below the fortress.

An Old Centre Still in Daily Use

Old Tbilisi is not an open-air museum. Residents still live in its ageing apartment houses and courtyard buildings, and the historic streets mix small galleries, wine bars, cafés, restaurants, souvenir shops and ordinary local services. Shardeni Street and the lanes around Erekle II Street are more polished and visitor-oriented, whereas Sololaki reveals grander nineteenth-century façades, stairways and balconies in various states of repair. Evenings bring a sociable restaurant and wine culture, but the district also contains quiet residential corners. The result is a compact, highly walkable part of Tbilisi with steep sections, uneven paving and a visible tension between conservation, tourism and everyday urban life.

Best attractions in Old Tbilisi

Old Tbilisi’s attractions are concentrated within a walkable historic landscape. Abanotubani is the best-known starting point, with its low domes marking the city’s sulphur-bath district and the entrance to the Leghvtakhevi gorge nearby. From Meidan, lanes lead towards Sioni Cathedral, the riverfront and the older streets of Kala, while Anchiskhati Basilica offers one of the city’s most important early Christian settings. Narikala Fortress dominates the hillside above the neighbourhood and provides views over the Mtkvari, tiled roofs and surrounding hills; the cable car from Rike Park offers an alternative approach. The Tbilisi Botanical Garden occupies the gorge below the fortress, combining paths, water and woodland with historic urban scenery. Restored balconies, courtyard houses, small galleries and the pedestrian streets around Shardeni and Erekle II add texture between the major sights.

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Best landmarks in Old Tbilisi

Narikala Fortress is Old Tbilisi’s defining landmark, occupying a strategic ridge above the sulphur-bath district and embodying the military history of the capital, although its visible fabric reflects many periods of rebuilding. Abanotubani’s domed bathhouses are equally characteristic, linking the neighbourhood’s architecture to the geothermal springs that gave Tbilisi its name. Sioni Cathedral anchors the historic centre beside the Mtkvari, while Anchiskhati Basilica, associated with the sixth-century foundation tradition of Tbilisi’s church history, is one of the city’s oldest surviving religious buildings. The Metekhi Church and statue of King Vakhtang Gorgasali stand across the river on the Metekhi plateau, close to the old centre but best described as a neighbouring landmark. Wooden balconies, enclosed courtyards, old defensive walls and the restored streets around Meidan complete the district’s architectural vocabulary.

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Explore Old Tbilisi on the map

A handpicked selection of must-see spots in Old Tbilisi, mapped for you.

Best restaurants in Old Tbilisi

Old Tbilisi has one of the city’s densest concentrations of visitor-oriented dining, particularly around Meidan, Shardeni Street, Erekle II Street and the lanes leading towards Abanotubani. Menus commonly introduce travellers to Georgian staples such as khinkali, khachapuri, lobio, pkhali and grilled meats, alongside regional wines and chacha, the local grape spirit. The atmosphere ranges from polished restaurants in restored buildings to compact cafés and cellar-like wine bars, with some establishments using balconies and courtyard terraces as part of the setting. Dining here can be convenient for sightseeing, but the most atmospheric places are often tucked behind unassuming façades, so menus and prices are worth checking before sitting down. Sololaki adds a more residential architectural backdrop, while the bath district is useful for combining a meal with an evening visit to the sulphur-bath area.

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Best bars in Old Tbilisi

After dark, Old Tbilisi’s evening life centres on the pedestrian lanes and squares around Shardeni Street, Bambis Rigi, Erekle II Street and Meidan. Wine bars introduce Georgia’s distinctive winemaking traditions, often with tastings of amber-coloured qvevri wines as well as more familiar reds and whites, while cocktail bars and restaurants occupy converted historic interiors. The district’s nightlife is generally social and dining-led rather than dominated by large clubs, with music and late conversations spilling into compact streets during busy periods. Some venues operate in buildings close to homes, so noise can change quickly between one lane and the next. For a quieter evening, look towards cellar bars and wine-focused venues away from the busiest pedestrian thoroughfares, or follow the riverfront before returning to the old centre.

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Best nightclubs in Old Tbilisi

After dark, Old Tbilisi’s evening life centres on the pedestrian lanes and squares around Shardeni Street, Bambis Rigi, Erekle II Street and Meidan. Wine bars introduce Georgia’s distinctive winemaking traditions, often with tastings of amber-coloured qvevri wines as well as more familiar reds and whites, while cocktail bars and restaurants occupy converted historic interiors. The district’s nightlife is generally social and dining-led rather than dominated by large clubs, with music and late conversations spilling into compact streets during busy periods. Some venues operate in buildings close to homes, so noise can change quickly between one lane and the next. For a quieter evening, look towards cellar bars and wine-focused venues away from the busiest pedestrian thoroughfares, or follow the riverfront before returning to the old centre.

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Best shops in Old Tbilisi

Shopping in Old Tbilisi is concentrated around Shardeni Street, Bambis Rigi, Erekle II Street, Meidan and the lanes near Abanotubani rather than in a single traditional market. Small shops and galleries sell Georgian wine, churchkhela, spices, ceramics, textiles, jewellery, paintings and souvenirs, while specialist wine retailers can explain regional varieties and qvevri production. The selection is strongly visitor-facing in the busiest streets, but independent craft studios and design-led shops appear among the historic courtyards and restored façades. Sololaki is less of a dedicated shopping district, though its streets contain occasional galleries and small businesses worth discovering while walking between Liberty Square and the old centre. Prices and quality vary, particularly for crafts and antiques, so ask about materials and provenance before purchasing, and remember that stock changes between shops.

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Old Tbilisi essentials

Getting There
Old Tbilisi is easiest to reach from the central parts of the city by metro, bus, taxi or on foot. Avlabari metro station is useful for the eastern side of the historic core and the Metekhi approach, while Liberty Square metro station provides access towards Sololaki and the western side of the old centre. From either station, the final approach involves city streets and, in places, slopes or steps. Buses and taxis can reach the main roads around Meidan, Europe Square and Abanotubani, although narrow lanes and pedestrianised sections may require a short walk.
Getting Around
Much of Old Tbilisi is best explored on foot, with short distances between Meidan, the sulphur baths, Sioni Cathedral, Anchiskhati Basilica and the riverfront. Expect uneven paving, stairways and steep climbs towards Narikala, Sololaki and the upper lanes. The cable car linking Rike Park with the Narikala area is useful for the fortress approach, but it does not replace walking within the historic streets. Main roads and bridges provide practical orientation, while taxis are more convenient than cars in the narrowest parts of the district.
Safety
Normal city precautions are appropriate in Old Tbilisi, particularly around busy squares, nightlife streets and crowded viewpoints where bags and phones should be kept secure. Uneven paving, open edges near viewpoints, traffic on narrow roads and smooth stones around the baths require attention, especially after rain. Evening activity is concentrated around restaurants and bars, but visitors staying in quieter residential lanes should remain considerate and use established routes or a reputable taxi when returning late. Keep valuables discreet and take care on steep descents.
Emergency Situations
Georgia’s unified emergency number is 112, which connects callers with police, fire and ambulance services. Tell the operator that you are in Tbilisi and provide a nearby landmark, street or hotel because Old Tbilisi’s small lanes and courtyards can be difficult to identify. International visitors should carry identification and make sure their accommodation details are accessible. For non-urgent medical needs, ask accommodation staff or a local pharmacy for directions to an appropriate clinic; do not assume that every historic-centre pharmacy provides emergency treatment.
Do's and Don'ts
Dress respectfully when entering churches, covering shoulders and knees where requested and following instructions about photography. Ask before photographing people, private courtyards or bathhouse interiors, and avoid blocking doorways in narrow lanes. Treat restored façades, carved balconies and religious buildings as working heritage rather than props, and do not climb on walls or structures. In restaurants and wine bars, service customs vary, so check the bill and leave a tip when service has not already been included. Keep voices low near homes, particularly around late-night venues.
Local Tips
Use Meidan, the Mtkvari and the visible line of Narikala as a simple mental map, then explore one side street at a time rather than trying to follow a rigid route. Sololaki is particularly rewarding for architecture and courtyards, while Abanotubani is best combined with a walk through the gorge towards the Botanical Garden. The contrast between restored visitor streets and weathered residential buildings is part of the district’s character, so allow time beyond the main restaurant and shopping lanes. Morning light is often favourable for façades and quieter photographs.
Eve, your Evendo local guide

From Eve

Local phrases worth knowing

You don't need to get them perfect. A few words go a long way, and locals appreciate the effort.

6 phrase groups · English, local and pronunciation

Basics
EnglishLocalSay it
Helloგამარჯობა[gamardjoba]
Goodbyeნახვამდი[nakhvamdi]
Yesდიახ[diakh]
Noარა[ara]
Please/You're welcomeგთხოვთ[gtkhovt]
Thank youმადლობა[madloba]
Excuse me/Sorryშემშლელი ვარ[shemshleli var]
How are you?როგორ ხარ?[rogor khar?]
Fine. And you?კარგად. შენ?[kargad. shen?]
Do you speak English?იცი ინგლისური?[itsi inglisuri?]
I don't understandარ გასჭირდეს[ar gaschirdes]
Eating & Drinking
EnglishLocalSay it
I'd like to see the menu, pleaseგთხოვთ, მენიუს ნახოთ[gtkhovt, menuis nakhot]
I don't eat meatმე ხორი არ ვჭამ[me khori ar vcham]
Cheers!გასიმრულე[gasimrule]
I would like to pay, pleaseგთხოვთ, გადაიხდოთ[gtkhovt, gadaikdot]
Emergencies
EnglishLocalSay it
Help!დაახლოე[daakhloe]
Go away!წვერი გელი[tsveri geli]
Call the Police!შემოიძიარეთ პოლიცია![shemoiziaret politsia!]
Call a doctor!შემოიძიარეთ ექიმი![shemoiziaret ekimi!]
I'm lostვაკაცდები[vakatsdebi]
I'm illვარ ავირია[var aviria]
Shopping
EnglishLocalSay it
I'd like to buy...მე მიყიდვა მინიჭებს[me miqidva minich'eb]
I'm just lookingმე მხედავ[me mkhedav]
How much is it?რამდენი ღირს?[ramdeni ghirs?]
That's too expensiveეს ძალიან ზღვისავსაა[es dzalian zghvisavsa]
Can you lower the price?შეიძლება თანხის შემოწმება?[sheidzleba tank'is shemotsmeba?]
Time & Numbers
EnglishLocalSay it
What time is it?რა დროა?[ra droa?]
It's one o'clockერთი არის[erti aris]
Half past (10)ათის ნახევარი[at'is nakhevari]
Morningდილა[dila]
Afternoonსაღამო[saghamo]
Eveningსაღამო[mshvenieri]
Yesterdayგუშინ[gushin]
Todayდღეს[dges]
Tomorrowხვალ[khval]
1ერთი[erti]
2ორი[ori]
3სამი[sami]
4ოთხი[otkhi]
5ხუთი[khuti]
6ექვსი[ekvsi]
7შვიდი[shvidi]
8რვა[rva]
9ცხრა[tskhra]
10ათი[ati]
Transport & Directions
EnglishLocalSay it
Where's a/the...?სადაა ...?[sad'aa ...?]
What's the address?რა მისამართია?[ra mismartia?]
Can you show me (on the map)?შეიძლება მაჩვენოთ (რუკაზე)?[sheidzleba machvenot (ruk'aze)?]
When's the next (bus)?როდისაა შემდეგი (ავტობუსი)?[rodissaa shemdegi (avtobusi)?]
A ticket (to ....)ბილეთი (მიმდინარე ...)?[bileti (mimdinare ...)?]

History of Old Tbilisi

The Springs and the City’s Foundation

Tbilisi’s name is linked to the Georgian word tbili, meaning warm, referring to the naturally hot springs that rise in the Abanotubani area. The springs helped establish the site as an important settlement in the Mtkvari valley, although the familiar foundation legend associated with King Vakhtang Gorgasali belongs partly to later tradition. The historic core developed around the river crossing, the baths and the rocky slopes above them. Its position between the Caucasus, eastern Georgia and routes to the wider region made Tbilisi strategically valuable, while Narikala and other fortified positions protected the settlement from the heights.

A Medieval Capital and Fortress Town

After Tbilisi became the capital of the Georgian kingdom in the fifth century, the area around the river, baths and fortress formed the political and commercial centre of the city. Medieval Tbilisi was repeatedly contested because of its strategic position, and the historic core bears traces of rebuilding after invasions and fires. Religious buildings such as Sioni Cathedral and Anchiskhati Basilica became enduring markers of the old city, while the settlement’s streets, markets and river crossings linked neighbourhood life to regional trade. Narikala was expanded and altered across successive periods, reflecting the continuing military importance of the hill above Abanotubani.

Imperial Rule and Urban Expansion

Russian annexation in the early nineteenth century brought administrative change and new patterns of construction to Tbilisi. As the city expanded beyond its older walls, the historic core acquired houses and commercial buildings with European, Georgian and Persianate influences, including the distinctive balconies and courtyard arrangements still visible in Kala and Sololaki. Streets near the river and the old markets became increasingly commercial, while new institutions and roads connected the older settlement to expanding parts of the capital. The architecture of this period is not uniform, but its mixture of façades, passages and shared courtyards remains central to Old Tbilisi’s visual character.

Reconstruction and Contemporary Renewal

During the Soviet period, Old Tbilisi remained an inhabited historic district, though many buildings suffered from age, neglect and piecemeal alteration. From the late twentieth century onward, restoration programmes and private investment repaired some façades, bathhouses and public spaces, while other structures continued to deteriorate or were substantially remodelled. The area around Abanotubani, Meidan and Shardeni became increasingly oriented towards visitors, with restaurants, wine bars, galleries and accommodation occupying restored or adapted buildings. This renewal has made the old centre more accessible but has also raised familiar questions about authenticity, rising commercial pressure and the balance between heritage protection and the needs of residents.

Old Tbilisi in Photos

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Neighbourhoods near Old Tbilisi

The closest neighbourhoods to Old Tbilisi, if you have time for more than one stop.

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Tbilisi
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Tbilisi combines sulphur baths, Old Town streets, Georgian cuisine, qvevri wine and layered Caucasian history beneath a dramatic hillside skyline.

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