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Kerlingarfjöll
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Kerlingarfjöll, Iceland: explore colourful rhyolite mountains, steaming geothermal valleys, glacier views, hiking routes and the remote Kjölur highlands.

Rhyolite Mountains and Geothermal Valleys

Kerlingarfjöll is a remote mountain range in Iceland’s central Highlands, reached from the Kjölur route between the country’s south and north. Its rust-red, ochre and yellow rhyolite peaks rise around snowfields, glacial valleys and steaming geothermal ground, creating a landscape that feels markedly different from Iceland’s better-known black-sand coasts and mossy lava fields. The range is especially associated with Hveradalir, a high valley where hot springs, fumaroles and mineral-stained slopes sit among sharply folded mountains.
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A High-Altitude Landscape

The area lies far from Iceland’s main settlements and is exposed to rapidly changing weather. Summer access is seasonal, while snow, fog and muddy conditions can affect roads and paths even during the warmer months. Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort in Ásgarður functions as the principal visitor base, with accommodation, food services and access to walking routes; facilities remain limited compared with established towns. The surrounding mountains are best experienced slowly, on foot, with careful attention to marked routes and local conditions.

Exploring Kerlingarfjöll

Hiking is the defining experience, ranging from excursions around the geothermal valleys to more demanding mountain routes and longer traverses. The views include glaciers, highland plateaux and isolated peaks such as Snækollur, the range’s highest summit. There are no permanent villages, shopping streets or conventional nightlife venues within Kerlingarfjöll itself. Instead, its character comes from geological colour, hot-earth smells, silence and the sense of travelling through one of Iceland’s least developed interior landscapes.

When is the best time to visit Kerlingarfjöll?

Best: June–August · 15–17°C
Average daytime high and rainfall by month
MonthHigh (°C)Rainfall (mm)
January034
February030
March329
April826
May1020
June (best)1523
July (best)1728
August (best)1527
September1124
October726
November232
December035

Getting to and around Kerlingarfjöll

How to get there

Kerlingarfjöll is reached from Route 35, the Kjölur highland road linking southern and northern Iceland. The turn-off towards Kerlingarfjöll leads along a rougher mountain road to Ásgarður and the mountain resort. Access is seasonal and depends on road openings, weather and conditions; visitors should consult current information from Icelandic road authorities before setting out. Four-wheel-drive vehicles are generally the appropriate choice for the mountain approach, while organised highland excursions and seasonal buses may provide alternatives from larger centres. The nearest substantial gateways are Gullfoss and the Geysir area in the south, and Blönduós or Varmahlíð in the north, rather than a settlement within Kerlingarfjöll itself.

Transportation

A vehicle is the most flexible way to explore Kerlingarfjöll, but the route from Route 35 to Ásgarður requires careful driving and may be affected by weather, snow and surface conditions. Distances between the principal trailheads, resort and surrounding highland areas are substantial, so visitors should plan walks rather than assume that attractions are close together. Once at the mountain base, the main experience is on foot along marked routes; there is no conventional local public transport network. Cycling is possible for experienced touring cyclists, but remoteness, elevation, wind and the rough approach road make it a demanding undertaking.

Best attractions in Kerlingarfjöll

Kerlingarfjöll’s principal attraction is Hveradalir, a high geothermal valley where steaming vents, hot springs and mineral colours spread between ochre, red and pale rhyolite ridges. Marked walking routes lead through a dramatic mountain setting, with views towards snowfields, glacial landscapes and the isolated summits of the range. Snækollur, the highest peak in Kerlingarfjöll, is a prominent objective for experienced hikers when conditions allow, while the wider Ásgarður area provides the main starting point for shorter excursions and longer mountain walks. The journey along the Kjölur route is part of the experience, crossing a broad and sparsely settled interior between Iceland’s south and north. Visitors should distinguish the range itself from nearby attractions such as Gullfoss and the Geysir area, which lie outside Kerlingarfjöll and are commonly visited on the southern approach.

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Best landmarks in Kerlingarfjöll

Hveradalir is Kerlingarfjöll’s defining natural landmark, recognised for its steaming geothermal ground and vividly mineral-stained rhyolite slopes. The surrounding mountain silhouettes, including Snækollur, give the range its distinctive highland profile, while snowfields and nearby glacial landscapes emphasise the area’s elevation and exposure. The route through Ásgarður provides the principal human landmark: a small mountain base established to support travel and hiking in an otherwise uninhabited interior. Kerlingarfjöll is also closely associated with the historic Kjölur crossing, whose modern road continues to connect Iceland’s southern and northern regions. These features are not monumental in an urban sense; their importance lies in the interaction of volcanic geology, geothermal heat, high-altitude weather and the long history of movement across Iceland’s central plateau.

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Explore Kerlingarfjöll on the map

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Best restaurants in Kerlingarfjöll

Dining in Kerlingarfjöll is concentrated at Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort in Ásgarður, rather than spread among independent villages or restaurants. Meals and refreshments may be available to guests and visitors according to the resort’s seasonal arrangements, so advance confirmation is sensible. The food culture is practical and suited to highland travel, with filling meals and provisions more important than an extensive restaurant scene. Travellers approaching from the south can find broader choice around the Golden Circle, while those coming from the north should stock up in a larger town before entering the Kjölur route. There are no ordinary supermarkets, cafés or farm shops within the mountain range, making packed food, water and emergency supplies important for day excursions and journeys through the interior.

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Best bars in Kerlingarfjöll

Kerlingarfjöll has no nightclub district or developed evening entertainment scene. After walking, evenings centre on the quiet atmosphere of the mountain resort and the surrounding highland landscape, with social time shaped by shared meals, changing light and the contrast between geothermal steam and open mountain silence. Any bar or licensed refreshments are dependent on the resort’s current seasonal facilities rather than a permanent local nightlife culture. Visitors seeking pubs, live music or a wider choice of evening venues should use a town outside the destination, such as a settlement in the Golden Circle area or northern Iceland, before travelling into the Highlands. Night-time walks require particular care because weather, darkness and geothermal hazards remain present beyond daylight hours.

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Best nightclubs in Kerlingarfjöll

Kerlingarfjöll has no nightclub district or developed evening entertainment scene. After walking, evenings centre on the quiet atmosphere of the mountain resort and the surrounding highland landscape, with social time shaped by shared meals, changing light and the contrast between geothermal steam and open mountain silence. Any bar or licensed refreshments are dependent on the resort’s current seasonal facilities rather than a permanent local nightlife culture. Visitors seeking pubs, live music or a wider choice of evening venues should use a town outside the destination, such as a settlement in the Golden Circle area or northern Iceland, before travelling into the Highlands. Night-time walks require particular care because weather, darkness and geothermal hazards remain present beyond daylight hours.

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Best shops in Kerlingarfjöll

Shopping opportunities within Kerlingarfjöll are extremely limited and are primarily connected with practical provisions at the mountain resort, subject to its seasonal services. There is no permanent shopping street, market or cluster of craft shops in the range. Visitors should purchase fuel, groceries, outdoor supplies and any specialist equipment in a larger settlement before entering the Kjölur Highlands. Souvenirs, Icelandic woollen goods, design products and regional food items are more readily found in towns and established tourist areas outside Kerlingarfjöll, including places along the southern approach or in northern Iceland. The most useful preparation is therefore logistical rather than retail: carry enough food, water, clothing and navigation equipment for the planned route and do not expect to resupply once deep in the interior.

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Kerlingarfjöll essentials

Currency and Payment
Iceland uses the Icelandic króna, with the international code ISK. Cards and contactless payments are widely used in Iceland, including at many established visitor businesses, but remote highland travel requires more preparation than a town visit. Payment facilities and connectivity at Kerlingarfjöll may be limited, and there are no ordinary banking services or cash machines in the mountain range. Carry a suitable backup payment method and obtain any cash needed before leaving larger settlements. Confirm the resort’s current payment arrangements before travelling, particularly if relying on a card or mobile connection.
Safety
Kerlingarfjöll is an exposed highland environment where wind, low cloud, cold temperatures and sudden weather changes can occur in summer. Paths may be steep, uneven, muddy or snow-covered, and visibility can deteriorate quickly. Keep to marked routes around geothermal areas because hot ground, steam vents and unstable crusts are hazardous. Mobile coverage may be unreliable, while roads are remote and assistance is not close at hand. Check weather and road conditions, tell someone your plans, carry suitable clothing and navigation equipment, and avoid setting out on longer walks beyond your preparation or the prevailing conditions.
Emergency Situations
Iceland’s national emergency number is 112, which connects callers with police, fire and medical assistance. In a highland emergency, give the operator your precise location, route, nearest marked trail or road, vehicle details and the number of people affected; coordinates from a reliable GPS device can be particularly useful. Do not rely solely on a mobile signal, and avoid leaving an injured person alone unless necessary to obtain help. For non-urgent medical needs, plan ahead around the limited facilities of the Highlands and seek professional advice in a larger town before travelling into the interior.
Do's and Don'ts
Stay on marked paths and roads to protect fragile vegetation, volcanic soils and geothermal features, and never walk across steaming ground simply to reach a viewpoint. Do not touch hot springs or vents, leave litter, disturb wildlife or collect rocks and mineral deposits. Keep vehicle wheels on established routes and follow temporary closures or local instructions. Close gates if you encounter them, respect any private land arrangements and give other walkers space in the quiet mountain environment. Treat the area as remote countryside rather than a developed attraction, and plan food, fuel, clothing and waste disposal accordingly.
Local Tips
Ásgarður is the practical base for walks in Kerlingarfjöll, while the Kjölur route offers a useful way to combine the range with other central Highland landscapes. Begin excursions with a clear weather forecast and ask locally about current conditions, as maps alone cannot reflect rapidly changing snow, water or visibility. Hveradalir is particularly rewarding in clear weather, but its geothermal terrain deserves slow, careful walking. Photographing the coloured slopes from established paths is preferable to crossing delicate ground, and an overnight stay can provide more time for the mountains than a rushed journey between Iceland’s better-known regions.
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From Eve

Local phrases worth knowing

You don't need to get them perfect. A few words go a long way, and locals appreciate the effort.

6 phrase groups · English, local and pronunciation

Basics
EnglishLocalSay it
HelloHalló[HA-loh]
GoodbyeBless[bles]
YesJá[ya]
NoNei[nay]
Please/You're welcomeGjörðu svo vel[GYOR-thu sva vel]
Thank youTakk fyrir[tahk fi-rir]
Excuse me/SorryFyrirgefðu[FI-rir-gef-thu]
How are you?Hvernig hefur þú það?[KVER-nig HEY-vur thoo thahd]
Fine. And you?Í lagi. En þú?[EE lah-ghi. En thoo]
Do you speak English?Talar þú ensku?[TAH-lar thoo ENS-koo]
I don't understandÉg skil ekki[yeh skil EH-kki]
Eating & Drinking
EnglishLocalSay it
I'd like to see the menu, pleaseÉg ætla að sjá matsedilinn, takk[yeh EHT-la ath syah MAHT-seh-dil-inn, tahk]
I don't eat meatÉg borða ekki kjöt[yeh BOR-tha EH-kki k-yot]
Cheers!Skál![skowl]
I would like to pay, pleaseÉg ætla að greiða, takk[yeh EHT-la ath gray-tha, tahk]
Emergencies
EnglishLocalSay it
Help!Hjálp![HYOWLP]
Go away!Farðu í burtu![far-thoo ee BUR-too]
Call the Police!Hringdu í lögregluna![hring-thu ee LUR-eg-loo-na]
Call a doctor!Hringdu til læknis![hring-thu til LAIK-nis]
I'm lostÉg er týndur[yeh air TEEN-thur]
I'm illMér er illt[mair air IL-lt]
Shopping
EnglishLocalSay it
I'd like to buy...Ég vildi kaupa...[yeh VIL-thi KOW-pa]
I'm just lookingÉg er bara að skoða[yeh air BA-ra ath SKO-tha]
How much is it?Hvað kostar það?[kvath KOS-tar thahd]
That's too expensiveÞað er of dýrt[thath air ov DEER-t]
Can you lower the price?Getur þú lækkat verðið?[GHE-tur thoo ligh-KAHT verth-ith]
Time & Numbers
EnglishLocalSay it
What time is it?Hvað er klukkan?[kvath air KLOO-kan]
It's one o'clockKlukkan er eitt[KLOO-kan air ayt]
Half past (10)Hálftíu (10)[HOWL-ftee-oo (10)]
MorningMorgunn[MOR-gun]
AfternoonSíðdegis[SEETH-de-yis]
EveningKvöld[kvuhld]
YesterdayÍ gær[ee gyer]
TodayÍ dag[ee dahg]
TomorrowÁ morgun[ow MOR-gun]
1Eitt[ayt]
2Tveir[t-vayr]
3Þrír[threer]
4Fjórir[fyoh-reer]
5Fimm[feem]
6Sex[sehx]
7Sjö[syoh]
8Átta[ow-tah]
9Níu[nee-oo]
10Tíu[tee-oo]
Transport & Directions
EnglishLocalSay it
Where's a/the...?Hvar er...[kvar air]
What's the address?Hvað er heimilisfangið?[kvath air HAY-mil-is-fang-ith]
Can you show me (on the map)?Getur þú sýnt mér (á kortinu)?[GHE-tur thoo seent mair (ow kawr-tee-noo)]
When's the next (bus)?Hvenær kemur næsta (strætisvagn)?[KVER-nair KAY-mur NY-sta (strayt-is-vagn)]
A ticket (to ....)Miði (til ...)[MEE-thee (til)]

History of Kerlingarfjöll

Volcanic Origins and Rhyolite Formation

Kerlingarfjöll was shaped by Iceland’s volcanic forces beneath the central Highlands. The range is composed largely of rhyolite, a silica-rich volcanic rock whose mineral composition produces the pale, red, orange and yellow colours visible on the mountainsides. Geothermal activity remains active in valleys such as Hveradalir, where heat from below the surface emerges through springs, fumaroles and steaming ground. Glacial erosion, snowfields and seasonal meltwater have subsequently carved and softened the volcanic terrain, producing the overlapping ridges and deeply incised valleys that define the modern landscape.

The Kjölur Route and Highland Travel

Kerlingarfjöll lies beside the historic Kjölur route, one of the traditional north–south crossings of Iceland’s interior. Travellers, farmers and trading parties used routes across the high plateau long before modern roads were constructed, although journeys were difficult and dependent on weather, river conditions and local knowledge. The route connected communities on opposite sides of the island while largely bypassing the central mountain range itself. Modern Route 35 follows the broad line of this passage, bringing visitors towards the turn-off for Kerlingarfjöll while retaining the area’s sense of remoteness.

Early Tourism in the Highlands

As Iceland’s interior became more accessible to organised travel, Kerlingarfjöll developed a modest tourism presence centred on hiking, mountain scenery and geothermal landscapes. The establishment of facilities at Ásgarður provided a practical base in an otherwise uninhabited area and helped make the range accessible to visitors travelling the Kjölur corridor. Tourism here has remained closely tied to summer conditions and outdoor exploration rather than large-scale settlement. The rough approach roads, exposed climate and limited services continue to shape the experience.

Contemporary Access and Conservation

Modern interest in Kerlingarfjöll reflects the wider growth of highland tourism in Iceland, alongside increasing concern about fragile volcanic soils, geothermal ground and vegetation that recovers slowly from disturbance. Roads and walking routes concentrate access, while responsible visitors are expected to follow signs, avoid hot ground and leave no trace. The area’s value lies not only in its scenery but also in its geological processes and relative quiet. Seasonal access, infrastructure limits and changing travel guidance remain important parts of managing visitation in the central Highlands.

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