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St Bartholomew the Great

Medieval sanctuary where nine centuries of English history unfold within Norman and Gothic walls.

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London's oldest surviving parish church, founded in 1123 as an Augustinian priory by Rahere, a courtier of Henry I. Located in Smithfield, this medieval gem has witnessed nearly 900 years of English history, from royal patronage and miraculous healings to the Reformation and the Great Fire of London. Today, it remains an active parish church with stunning Norman and Gothic architecture, housing precious artifacts including a 1405 font and the tomb of its founder.

A brief summary to St Bartholomew the Great

  • W Smithfield, London, Barbican, EC1A 9DS, GB
  • +442076000440
  • Visit website
  • Duration: 0.75 to 2.5 hours
  • Free
  • Environment icon Indoor
  • Mobile reception: 5 out of 5

Local tips

  • Arrive early in the morning or late afternoon to experience the church in quieter moments and appreciate the medieval architecture without crowds. Sunday services at 8:30 AM and 11:00 AM offer a chance to witness the church in its primary function.
  • Look carefully at the architectural details: the transition from Romanesque rounded arches to Gothic pointed arches tells the story of the church's medieval construction phases and financial constraints.
  • Visit the Lady Chapel at the east end to stand in the location of the Virgin Mary's recorded apparition and where Benjamin Franklin once worked as a young printer's apprentice.
  • Examine the 1405 font where William Hogarth was baptized, one of only two surviving pre-Reformation fonts in London, and locate Rahere's rebuilt tomb to pay respects to the church's visionary founder.
  • Explore the Tudor gatehouse at the entrance, built around 1595, which reveals 13th-century stonework and marks where the demolished nave once stood before the Dissolution of the Monasteries.
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Getting There

  • London Underground

    Take the Circle, Hammersmith & City, or Metropolitan Line to Barbican station. Exit and follow signs toward Smithfield. The church is approximately 8–10 minutes' walk from the station via Aldersgate Street and Cloth Fair. The station is fully accessible with lifts and step-free access to platforms.

  • Bus

    Multiple bus routes serve Smithfield, including routes 8, 25, 56, 100, 153, and 205. Alight at stops near Smithfield Market or Aldersgate Street. Journey times from central London vary between 15–30 minutes depending on traffic. Buses are equipped with wheelchair access and real-time information displays.

  • Walking

    From St Paul's Cathedral, walk south and east via Cheapside and Newgate Street to reach Smithfield in approximately 10–12 minutes. The route is entirely on paved streets with level terrain. From the Museum of London (Barbican), head southwest via Aldersgate Street for approximately 8 minutes. All routes are accessible for wheelchairs and mobility aids.

  • Taxi or Ride-Share

    Request pickup or dropoff at West Smithfield, London EC1A 9DS. Journey times from major London locations (King's Cross, Victoria, Paddington) range from 15–25 minutes depending on traffic conditions. Fares typically range from £12–£25 within central London. Accessible vehicles are available through most services.

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A Vision Born from Pilgrimage

St Bartholomew the Great stands as London's oldest surviving parish church, founded in 1123 by Rahere, a prebendary of St Paul's Cathedral and courtier to King Henry I. According to legend, Rahere fell gravely ill during a pilgrimage to Rome and vowed to build a church for the poor in London if he recovered. Upon his return, he experienced a vision of the Apostle Bartholomew commanding him to establish a church upon Smithfield, then a small cemetery and royal property. When Rahere presented his divine message to Henry I, the king was so moved that he granted the land to Rahere, enabling construction to begin. The priory church was consecrated in 1133, and Henry issued a royal charter promising to defend St Bartholomew's 'as he would his own crown.' Rahere's ambitious vision extended beyond the church itself—he established both a hospital and a priory, creating an institution that would gain a reputation for miraculous healings, particularly on St Bartholomew's Day (24 August), when the sick filled its aisles seeking cures.

Medieval Expansion and Spiritual Significance

Under Prior Thomas, who governed from 1144 to 1174, the priory underwent significant expansion and gained papal patronage from popes Anastasius IV, Adrian IV, and Alexander III. The number of canons grew from the original 13 (representing Jesus and the 12 disciples) to 35, necessitating an ambitious expansion of the church itself. Prior Thomas extended the nave to ten bays to accommodate the increased community. The church's reputation for spiritual power was further enhanced by recorded miracles, including the apparition of the Blessed Virgin Mary to Canon Hubert in the late 12th century—reportedly the only recorded visitation of the Virgin Mary in London. This miraculous event prompted the construction of a much larger Lady Chapel at the east end of the church. The priory also gained valuable economic privileges, including the right to hold what became England's premier fair for the sale of cloth, one of the country's most economically valuable commodities.

Survival Through Reformation and Fire

The Dissolution of the Monasteries under Henry VIII in 1539 brought dramatic change to St Bartholomew's. The priory was dissolved, and approximately half of the church—including the ten-bay nave—was demolished. However, the choir and ambulatory, built by Rahere and completed by the time of his death in 1145, were preserved. Sir Richard Rich, a royal courtier and collaborator in the dissolution, acquired the priory precinct on favourable terms. Rather than destroy the remaining church, Rich respected the parish's rights and formally recognized St Bartholomew's as a separate parish, even endowing it with seven properties to provide rental income for the rector. The churchyard was formed from the space left by the demolished nave. The church's survival was further tested by the Great Fire of London in 1666, but the ancient priory walls acted as a firebreak, protecting both the church and the surrounding buildings on Cloth Fair. This remarkable escape from the Great Fire stands as one of the most significant moments in the church's long history.

Architectural Character and Notable Features

Visitors encounter an unusual architectural blend within St Bartholomew's walls. Construction began in the Romanesque style, characterized by rounded arches and substantial columns brought by the Normans, but transitioned to the Gothic style during the building process. As a relatively poor parish, the church could not afford to start anew, so the southern end was completed in Gothic style, creating a distinctive architectural conversation between two medieval periods. The church houses several remarkable artifacts: a font dating from 1405, one of only two pre-Reformation fonts surviving in London, where the artist William Hogarth was baptized in 1697; the rebuilt tomb of Rahere, moved to the church in 1405; and the Lady Chapel, which once served as a printing workshop where a young Benjamin Franklin worked as a typesetter in the early 18th century before the church reclaimed it in 1885. The south transept was restored and opened in 1891 and again in 1893 in the presence of the Prince and Princess of Wales and the Archbishop of Canterbury. The distinctive Tudor gatehouse at the entrance, built around 1595 atop a 13th-century stone archway that once marked the southern entrance to the nave, survived both the Great Fire and German bombing in World War One, its original timber framing revealed only after a 1917 Zeppelin raid damaged its Georgian facade.

Living History and Contemporary Significance

St Bartholomew the Great has remained a place of continuous worship for nearly 900 years, witnessing pivotal moments in English history. William Wallace was hanged, drawn and quartered within 100 metres of the site; Wat Tyler and religious martyrs of the Reformation were executed in nearby Smithfield; and John Wesley, founder of Methodism, preached here after finding other City churches closed to him. The church was briefly used as the third Dominican friary of London, refounded by Queen Mary I in 1556 and closed in 1559. Remarkably, the church escaped major damage during the Blitz of World War Two. Today, the church remains an active parish, adopted by several City Livery companies and a favourite location for filmmakers. The principal churchyard, a raised garden on Cloth Fair, was laid out in 1885 by landscape gardener Fanny Wilkinson of the Metropolitan Public Gardens Association. In 2023, the parish celebrated its 900th anniversary, marking nine centuries of faith, resilience, and service in the heart of London.

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