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St Giles-in-the-Fields

Medieval leper hospital turned Palladian masterpiece—nearly 1000 years of London's sacred and troubled history

4.5

St Giles-in-the-Fields is a historic Anglican parish church in London's West End, with roots stretching back nearly 1000 years to 1101 when Queen Matilda founded a leper hospital on the site. The current Palladian-style building, designed by Henry Flitcroft and completed in 1734, stands as the third church structure on this location. The churchyard holds centuries of London history, from plague burials to executions, and features remarkable monuments including a striking Renaissance gateway depicting the Day of Judgement. Today it serves as a vibrant spiritual and cultural landmark in the heart of Bloomsbury.

A brief summary to St Giles in the Fields

  • 60 St Giles High St, London, WC2H 8LG, GB
  • +442072402532
  • Visit website
  • Duration: 0.75 to 2 hours
  • Free
  • Environment icon Mixed
  • Mobile reception: 5 out of 5

Local tips

  • Visit the Resurrection Gateway at the western entrance—the carved relief depicting the Day of Judgement is one of London's finest examples of 17th-century religious art and worth studying in detail.
  • Allow time to read the blue interpretive panels inside the church; they provide essential context for understanding the site's complex history from plague burials to Civil War politics.
  • The churchyard is a peaceful spot to sit and reflect despite its dark history; locals and visitors often rest here, making it a genuine community space rather than a museum piece.
  • Visit on a weekday morning to experience the church with fewer crowds; Sunday services draw worshippers and the atmosphere shifts accordingly.
  • The nearby Angel pub claims historical connections to condemned prisoners receiving their final drink before execution—a sobering reminder of the area's past.
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Getting There

  • Underground (Tube)

    Tottenham Court Road station on the Northern Line is located directly adjacent to the church, approximately 50 metres away. Journey times from central London vary: from King's Cross St Pancras allow 5–8 minutes; from Bank or Monument allow 12–15 minutes. The station is busy during peak hours (8–9 am and 5–7 pm weekdays) but provides direct access year-round. Step out of the station and the church entrance is immediately visible on St Giles High Street.

  • Bus

    Multiple bus routes serve the area: routes 7, 10, 14, 24, 29, 73, and 390 stop on Tottenham Court Road or nearby streets within 100–200 metres of the church. Journey times depend on origin and traffic conditions; expect 15–40 minutes from most central London locations during off-peak hours, longer during rush hours. Buses run frequently throughout the day and evening, with reduced service after midnight.

  • Walking

    The church is accessible on foot from surrounding areas: from Leicester Square (approximately 600 metres, 8–10 minutes) via Charing Cross Road; from the British Museum (approximately 400 metres, 5–7 minutes) via Museum Street and Bloomsbury Way; from King's Cross St Pancras station (approximately 800 metres, 10–12 minutes) via Euston Road and Gower Street. The route is flat, well-lit, and passes through busy commercial and cultural districts. Pavements are standard London width and generally accessible.

  • Taxi or Rideshare

    Taxis and rideshare services (Uber, Bolt, Addison Lee) can drop passengers on St Giles High Street or nearby side streets. Journey times from central London locations typically range from 10–25 minutes depending on traffic; expect longer delays during peak hours (8–9 am, 5–7 pm weekdays) and weekend evenings. Fares vary by service and time; typical costs from nearby areas range from £6–15.

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Nine Centuries of Sacred Ground

St Giles-in-the-Fields occupies one of London's most historically layered sites, with continuous Christian worship spanning nearly 900 years. The story begins in 1101 when Queen Matilda, wife of Henry I, established a leper hospital here, complete with a chapel for the isolated patients. At that time, the location stood well beyond London's walls, in open countryside—hence the "in-the-fields" designation. When Henry VIII dissolved the monasteries in the 16th century, the hospital's endowments passed to the Crown, but the chapel was preserved and evolved into a parish church serving the small village that had grown around it. By the 1550s, the parish numbered roughly 350 residents, many of them drawn to the area's developing character.

Transformation Through Wealth and Controversy

By the early 1600s, St Giles had begun attracting affluent residents, and the parish undertook an ambitious rebuilding. Between 1623 and 1630, a striking Gothic brick church rose on the site, largely funded by Alice, Duchess Dudley, daughter-in-law of Queen Elizabeth I's favourite Robert Dudley. When Bishop William Laud consecrated the church in 1631, it reflected the advanced "high church" style of the era, featuring a screen separating the chancel and nave, painted apostles on the organ loft, and ornate stained glass. This decorative richness became a flashpoint during the religious disputes of the 1630s and Civil War period, as parishioners clashed over liturgical practices. The church's illuminated "Doomsday Book"—a manuscript listing subscribers to the rebuilding—survives as a remarkable record of this era.

The Palladian Masterpiece

By the early 18th century, the 17th-century church had deteriorated badly, weakened by dampness from centuries of burials and strained by the parish's growing population. After initial rejection, the parish successfully petitioned for a grant and commissioned architect Henry Flitcroft to design a replacement. Built between 1730 and 1734 in the elegant Palladian style, the new church was consecrated on Christmas Day 1733 and remains the St Giles we see today. Flitcroft's design brought classical proportions and refined restraint to the site, creating a building of enduring grace that would later inspire his design of Woburn Abbey for the Dukes of Bedford, major landowners in the district.

Gallows, Plague, and Dark History

The churchyard's history carries a sobering weight. From the 14th century onwards, it served as an execution site, with gallows standing where worshippers now sit. Religious dissenters, including members of the Lollard movement in 1414 and Catholic conspirators like Anthony Babington in 1586, met their end here. The area became synonymous with capital punishment in medieval and Tudor London, and nearby street names like Bowl Yard preserve this grim legacy. The Great Plague of 1665 brought unimaginable tragedy: 3,216 victims were buried in the churchyard during that single year alone, their graves contributing to the damp conditions that would eventually necessitate the church's reconstruction.

Monuments to Empire and Faith

The church's interior holds a complex tapestry of memorials reflecting London's role in colonial expansion and religious history. A prominent plaque commemorates Cecilius Calvert, second Lord Baltimore and founder of Maryland. The churchyard contains the remains of Roman Catholic martyrs and the chest tomb of Richard Penderel, the West Country yeoman who aided King Charles II's escape after the Battle of Worcester. These monuments speak to the parish's deep entanglement with English political and religious upheaval, from the Civil War to the Restoration.

The Resurrection Gateway

Standing at the western entrance is the church's most visually arresting feature: a lych gate built in 1800 by William Leverton, adorned with a cast of an oak panel originally carved in 1687 by an artisan named Love. The relief depicts the Resurrection and Day of Judgement with striking detail—Christ stands centrally while angels trumpet the final reckoning and bodies emerge from graves. Traditionally, the left side shows the ascent to heaven while the right depicts damnation, creating a powerful theological statement at the threshold between the living world and the churchyard's sacred ground.

A Living Parish in Modern London

Today, St Giles-in-the-Fields remains an active Anglican parish church and a beacon of spiritual life in London's bustling West End. The churchyard, enclosed by historic walls and mature trees, provides a tranquil refuge steps from Tottenham Court Road's commercial energy. The church welcomes visitors and worshippers alike, offering regular services and maintaining its role as a place of prayer and community gathering. Its blue interpretive panels guide visitors through centuries of local history, from the English Civil War to Victorian deprivation to the area's emergence as an entertainment and cultural hub. The parish boundaries still encompass the London School of Hygiene and Tropical Medicine, a fitting reminder of the site's ancient association with disease and healing.

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